WildGardenerWildGardener's Perfume Reviews

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WildGardener 14 hours ago 1

Jus'wanna parfum
Orange blossom & tuberose bubblegum; lifted by tart, green, woody and spicy notes.
A typical 80’s confection, the juice - a Cyndi Lauper shade of auburn - tells you what it’s about, even before it's left the bottle.
This is for those girls (and guys – why not) who just wanna have (a) fun (perfume).

WildGardener 3 days ago 2

Mandarin Puzzle
Another of those 'how does he do it?' mysteries from Jean-Claude Ellena.
Mandarine Ambrée does exactly what it says on the tin : mandarin - amber, mandarin - amber, amber - mandarin.
But how does he make the mandarin - a citrus top note, last as long as the base note - amber?
The answer is; it's virtual mandarin, backed with a fruity note.
Once you've figured that one out, this linear and rather straightforward amber tends to lose its interest.
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WildGardener 4 days ago 2

Shiny Happy Patou
After the Wall Street Crash had started the Great Depression, perfumeries might have knuckled down with sombre creations or just gone quiet. Not so with Patou, they went bananas; with Joy – the ‘most expensive perfume in the world’, and then Cocktail – with three flankers, and no less than six other perfumes, all in 1930! During the next few years the deluge gave way but their exuberance was relentless: Baby Bar (1931), Invitation (’32), Holidays (’34), a perfume to celebrate the cruise liner Normandie (’35) and Divine Folie (1933), a simple but vibrant combo of syrupy amber and zingy orange blossom, sunny and upbeat.
Even though it’s a bit old fashioned it still feels young at heart, a lovely piece of
optimism to lighten the gloom.

WildGardener 6 days ago 1

Quid pro quo
It’s tempting to see this as the price of Thérèse.
Malle wanted to pubish the ‘lost’ masterpiece by Roudnitka, and his son Michel – who controlled the formula - wanted to get one of his own released.
Noir Epices is spicy pepper at variance with milky rose.
It’s not a patch on Parfum de Thérèse but then - what is ..?
But, at two thirds of the way down the list (percentage of positive ratings on Basenotes) it’s not the worst of the Malle’s either.
All the same it's not to my taste. The spice is too stark and the rose a bit strange.

WildGardener 9 days ago 3

Oh oh, Coco
Some resinous materials have acid overtones.(1) These off notes can be felt when resins or balsamics are used in large quantities, and their unpleasant effects can be prominent in what Arctander calls ambra(1) perfumes. When this happens it’s
common for perfumers to hide or disguise the offending notes.

Coco doesn’t try to hide its acid overtone but instead (like Youth-Dew) it aims to
disguise it, in this case with a spicy accord, which also has peppery and burnt sugar tonalities. These are backed up by the gritty indole of orange flower, and the woody, earthy, spicy and camphoraceous elements of patchouli.(2)

Because ambra constructions tend to be base heavy they are long and linear. And this is the case with Coco. The acid overtone stretches way down into the body, making Coco feel a bit purse-lipped after a while, although there is a powdery sandal and
balsam note in the drydown which softens it up a little.

There’s some sweetness, but it’s kept well back (for an amber) and overall, Coco feels dry and acid-sour as much as sweet. This is a brave and admirable ploy on the part of Chanel and Jacques Polge, or it may have been they were just making a virtue of
necessity; but all the same, I find it rather stark, and starkness isn’t something I look for in an amber.

(Vintage sample, nearly empty)

(1) Steffen Arctander – Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin
(2) thegoodscentscompany.com
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