WildGardenerWildGardener's Perfume Reviews

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WildGardener 1 month ago 1

Obsessed no more
Obsession for Men is the perfume equivalent of an 80's soft rock ballad. Foreigner's Waiting for a Girl like You is a good metaphor of the anxious sentimentality expressed here. (The track came out five years before but it's still relevant due to perfumery's
peculiar temporal dislocation from other arts - an idea put forward by Chandler Burr - which does seem to have some merit.)

In my original review I wrote OfM is 'more than just a comfort blanket', now I'm not so sure. These days it strikes me as little more than a bitter sweet amber with herbs.

WildGardener 1 month ago 1

Poisoned Opium
Asja may be derivative but it has an interesting fruity intro.
It feels like a mix of red - and tree fruits, i.e. raspberry/strawberry, and pear/apple, and there’s also a peach note. And on top of that there’s cool citrus-aldehydes.
As well as that there’s a gritty note of eugenol and clove, which gives contrasting texture - as well as a spicy angle to the liquid and bitter-sweet fruitiness.
The opening gambit is well worked, but sadly, as it merges with the corps of powdery amber it starts to feel like Opium, and from
another angle, there’s a cool fruity wind that smells like Poison.
Asja wasn't just a mix of these two influences, and it takes a different fruity direction near the base - which also reminds me of something - but in the big picture it was surplus to requirements.
A decent but cliché ridden work.

WildGardener 1 month ago 7

'Jewellery for the Skin'
On her website, Rania J advises people to be cautious. She asks them to try this before buying, because it can be 'challenging for non oud lovers'.

The reason for this warning may be the knife edge overtone that appears at the top of the scent. It gives a sharpness to the antiseptic smell of natural oud; and, if it's worn (discretely) in a medical setting, Oud Assam blends perfectly with the background hum of strict hygene. But if you are wearing it in quantity, this opening could be too strident for those who aren’t used to such things.

Under the synthetic note and the disinfectant oud, there are smoky and leathery facets which are faintly touched with orange.
And, with incense and pepper it's unsweet-bitter. But having said that, I detect
something softer and sweeter, almost floral, which (according to Wikipedia) is a mark of real agarwood. Later, there's the rich acid barnyard note - which could be mixed with narcissus, and the cheesy aroma, which oud lovers will know...

I get fruity maroon, leathery, woody, cheesy and fungal Breton cider from the empty sprayer - the smell of rotting apples on the humid earth.
And then there's a dry floral, and a salty note of vetiver, and musk from my cuffs ...
This really is complex stuff, and a welcome change to yer regular high street pong. I wish I had more juice to do a fuller review, this empty sample gave out a few paltry squits and now it’s gone.

I'm no oud expert, but it strikes me this is an authentic hybrid that blends Eastern oud with scintillating Western highlights; something which Rania J is able to do with
authority. Having grown up in the middle east and africa, she now lives in Paris.

And despite her warning, I think that this - with familiar tones in it’s strange coloured brew is a good place to start, especially as you can buy just a 2ml sample.
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WildGardener 2 months ago 4

Patchouli suited and booted
Last time I looked, Givenchy had six Gentleman's in their line up, and that's not
counting the Gentlemen.
Right now, I'm gonna ignore all those Johnny Come Lately's and deal with the main man.
Gentleman (1974) is a woody aromatic with citrus and herbs, and a fruity note like mango. There's a sharp lavender and bitter patchouli.
It smells dark, formal and hard; what a Cold War defector might wear.

WildGardener 2 months ago 2

No-vis
It's a consciously retro scent, an aldehydic floral in the style of a parfum fourrure - a fur perfume.
And it’s interesting that François Robert - scion of the Robert family – opened his ouvre in this style. Because this, his first work, echoes that of his grandfather Guy: Caleche - an aldehydic leather, and maybe Lasso (although I don’t know it) a leather chypre with peach - which also features here.
Vison (which means mink) is a rather formless and thick chypre, sweetish but
somehow unpleasant with a hide-like feel. Where Caleche is opulent, this is
oppressive.
In case you were in any doubt about what you were buying, the bottle cap is wrapped in a furry hat, probably not mink, but anyway - a piece of dead animal.
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