WildGardenerWildGardener's Perfume Reviews

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WildGardener 2 months ago 2

Coquette by Colette
Gigi is one of a trilogy from this house that deals with controversial literary subjects : [Oscar] Wilde – who was prosecuted for gross
indecency with another man, Orlando – a gender morphing poet in a Virginia Woolfe novella, and Gigi – a novel by Colette where a young girl is raised to be a courtesan.
Gigi’s story is said to be based on Yola Letellier (you can see her photo by Man Ray on her Wikipedia English page). Letellier married a man forty years her senior, who was a newspaper magnate and mayor of Deauville, the über swanky resort in Normandy where Chanel opened her first boutique.
With this kind of backstory, you might expect these ‘white flowers of the Belle Epoque’ to be different from the average, and they are.
Gigi opens with a strange exotic fruit, somewhere between citrus,
lychee and peach; enticing but vulnerable, a lustrous milky green, pale, more bitter than sweet.
It develops an orange flower and tuberose bouquet, which is sweetly floral but harshly indolic. It’s as if - as she grows – Gigi masters the art of seduction - but at a price. She remains the innocent, but has a
difficult side to her worldly charms.
All three of the trilogy are built around orange flower. The other two are too dusty, dry, and this is the only success; with a fine balance of sweet and sour, it stays open and luminous.

WildGardener 2 months ago 3

Slow decay
Autumn is a time of ripeness, the completion of the yearly cycle of growth and
maturity, and so, to the weary farmer - whose fields are full of waving grain - it’s a time of plenitude and celebration.
But there is another side to autumn, the decline of summer into barren winter, a shift from growth to decay, from life springing forth - to its return back to the earth.
And it’s this poignant, melancholy side to autumn that Eau Lente captures. Its russet resiny scent is full, over ripe, almost putrid.
It is said that the formula derives from an ancient scent which was known to Alexander the Great, and it wouldn’t surprise me to learn it was used to embalm his body, such is the sweet spicy ripeness of it all.
With Eau Lente I was looking for an autumn perfume, but instead of a harvest festival I found something more akin to a funeral.

WildGardener 2 months ago 2

Vetiver Nay
This isn’t a Vetiver but a fougère in the style of Azzaro pour Homme.

Vétiver Dry is more powdery-full, and it has a geranium note - which makes it a more conventional fougère, but they are basically quite similar.

It has herbs and a green tone which aren't in Azzaro. And, as well as that, there is a possible violet leaf note, which along with a dark pepperiness gives a vague hint of Fahrenheit - which was also launched in 1988.

But despite these differences, this is yet another Azzaro clone; and like (I think) all of them that I’ve smelled, I prefer this to the original.

So leaving aside the name, and viewing it on olfactory terms, this would be of interest to Azzaro lovers, and worth checking out. But, stand alone, it doesn’t say anything that hasn’t been said a dozen times before, it just says it in a softer powdery accent.

WildGardener 2 months ago

Tame fruchouli
You might think The White Ballet would be feathery, and light on its feet; a Swan Lake of scent. Well, the iris backing is kind of feathery, but it’s soaked with red-grey fruits; like someone has spilt Pinot Noir and stale Red Bull on your pristine white rug.
Consequently, it doesn’t take to the air in leaps and pirouettes but wraps you in a
carpet of iris and froot.
The combination of fruit (black berry or mulberry – depending on how you translate mûre) and the dry base (crêpe paper peony and ‘ambergris’) makes me think of fruchouli. But there’s none of the fruchouli sharpness you often find in this sort of thing, which is one point in its favour, but because of that lack of oomph, Le ballet blanc feels dry and rather dull; pedestrian.
It’s too much like Ballet Bland for my taste.

WildGardener 2 months ago

Angel Orange
No one could accuse this of being serious.
It's an orangey syrup, with pineapple, and a plasticky nuance.
And after that it gets powdery sweet and reassuring.

But don't think it's some brainless gourmand.
Underneath, there's choco-vanilla-patchouli, which is woody as much as foody.

Sure, it's derivative - a bit like orange Angel, but it's a great comfort blanket, and I like to wear it on cold autumn days when I want to feel uplifted.

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