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Nuit de Tubereuse = Dzongkha + Timbuktu + tuberose
Nuit de Tubereuse is a combination of accords from Dzongkha & Timbuktu with tuberose added in.
Take the cardamom , pink pepper and mango from Timbuktu, add to it the white tea and incense from Dzonka and finally some plastic'y tuberose. That is Nuit de Tubereuse.
But tuberose is dense and concentrated. Not loud by any means but solid in structure.
It's as if the tuberose essential oil was left on a Petri dish for a few days. And the dense tuberose oil that hadn't evaporated was used in Nuit de Tubereuse.
Now that's not a bad thing if you don't already own either Timbuktu or Dzongkha.
But , if like me, you do , then Nuit de Tubereuse feels redundant. The tuberose note in NdT does not carry the perfume alone. The two borrowed accords are as prominent, if not more prominent,than the tuberose note.
A good perfume but blatant accord borrowing is frowned upon. Especially from the skilled Mr.Duchafour.
Take the cardamom , pink pepper and mango from Timbuktu, add to it the white tea and incense from Dzonka and finally some plastic'y tuberose. That is Nuit de Tubereuse.
But tuberose is dense and concentrated. Not loud by any means but solid in structure.
It's as if the tuberose essential oil was left on a Petri dish for a few days. And the dense tuberose oil that hadn't evaporated was used in Nuit de Tubereuse.
Now that's not a bad thing if you don't already own either Timbuktu or Dzongkha.
But , if like me, you do , then Nuit de Tubereuse feels redundant. The tuberose note in NdT does not carry the perfume alone. The two borrowed accords are as prominent, if not more prominent,than the tuberose note.
A good perfume but blatant accord borrowing is frowned upon. Especially from the skilled Mr.Duchafour.
2 Comments
Carnal and sultry
The use of galbanum in Heure Exquise is outstanding.
She's managed to compose a perfume that's absolutely sultry. The soft floral accord pierced and ravished by the galbanum.
Rendering a perfume that would've aptly been named Carnal Orchard.
Galbanum , in my experience , is mostly used detached whatever accord the perfumer has going in that perfume.
Imagine a floral accord and the galbanum note in tandem but on different tangents.
But in Heure Exquise the galbanum intertwines, harasses if you will, those shy spoken florals.
I recently picked up a bottle of the EdP and have been mesmerized by the craftsmanship deployed in utilizing the galbanum to compose such an animalic scent.
She's managed to compose a perfume that's absolutely sultry. The soft floral accord pierced and ravished by the galbanum.
Rendering a perfume that would've aptly been named Carnal Orchard.
Galbanum , in my experience , is mostly used detached whatever accord the perfumer has going in that perfume.
Imagine a floral accord and the galbanum note in tandem but on different tangents.
But in Heure Exquise the galbanum intertwines, harasses if you will, those shy spoken florals.
I recently picked up a bottle of the EdP and have been mesmerized by the craftsmanship deployed in utilizing the galbanum to compose such an animalic scent.
Modern approach on classic theme - drydown unenthusiastic
If you enjoy the classic aromatic and herbal composition with a healthy dollop of synthetics (aldehydes and ISO E SUPER) then you'll enjoy M.O.U.S.S.E.
It starts out fizzy from the aldehydes and citrus.
Soon after that the clove becomes more prominent alongside the aldehydes. This accord sits on a slightly bitter base of moss and what feels like the ISO E SUPER waiting to burst forward.
Much later on its when, I feel, the composition looses its thrust and dwindles down into a tandem of lavender and ISO E SUPER.
Since this is Oliver's first perfume, I can see the need to further tweak the drydown.
Otherwise it's a highly modern take on a classic genre - herbal aromatic.
It starts out fizzy from the aldehydes and citrus.
Soon after that the clove becomes more prominent alongside the aldehydes. This accord sits on a slightly bitter base of moss and what feels like the ISO E SUPER waiting to burst forward.
Much later on its when, I feel, the composition looses its thrust and dwindles down into a tandem of lavender and ISO E SUPER.
Since this is Oliver's first perfume, I can see the need to further tweak the drydown.
Otherwise it's a highly modern take on a classic genre - herbal aromatic.
2 Comments
Resins galore - but restrained
Resina is a nice perfume. True to its moniker, it is a resin fest.
It starts out, carries on and ends with a balanced resin accord.
At no point does a single note stand out but at times a few notes clearly shine briefly like opoponax, labdanum ,frankincense and benzoin.
Resina is very well balanced. It's refreshing that it's not a perfume based around a single prominent note with supporting minor notes. No , resina is a harmonious equilibrium of a large variety of resins.
What will make the buying decision is whether you like a restrained perfume or a more voluptuous composition.
Resina is very restrained, which is neither good nor bad.
But it will be the deciding factor on whether to acquire a full bottle.
It starts out, carries on and ends with a balanced resin accord.
At no point does a single note stand out but at times a few notes clearly shine briefly like opoponax, labdanum ,frankincense and benzoin.
Resina is very well balanced. It's refreshing that it's not a perfume based around a single prominent note with supporting minor notes. No , resina is a harmonious equilibrium of a large variety of resins.
What will make the buying decision is whether you like a restrained perfume or a more voluptuous composition.
Resina is very restrained, which is neither good nor bad.
But it will be the deciding factor on whether to acquire a full bottle.
unique take on vetiver but terrible dry down
Vetiverus is a unique take on Vetiver. Vetiver is usually stark and austere when represented.
Except of course for a few offshoots like Fat Electrician, Vetiver Tonka, Vetyverio and Annick Goutal's Vetiver.
Vetiverus opens with a soft clove, a soft humming coriander & orange peel accord.
The bitterness from the orange peel, along with the osmanthus and the soft clove result in a magnificent accord.
The accord is a festivity of notes. The sharp unmistake smell of bitter orange, the never intrusive soft coriander-clove aroma and finally the comforting floral osmanthus.
Making it a very easy to wear, yet never boring and always captivating perfume. Taking deep whiffs of pleasure.
The above accord , thankfully, remains strong for a good few hours before the perfume gets very soft and looses the pizzazz it begins with.
If you were to analyze the vetiver note in |absolute value| terms, it is almost identical to that of Fat Electrician. But the perfume has more (above accord) going on so it is not similar to Fat Electrician as-a-perfume. Mentioning this to clarify that the Vetiver is never stark and austere like in Lorenzo Villoresi's Vetiver or Route du Vetiver.
Here comes the huge con.
The dry down has very disturbing note.
It severely needs adjustment.
I noticed this in the majority of Oliver's perfumes.
It feels like a shrieking banshee. Constant and very discomforting.
So keep the above in mind.
Except of course for a few offshoots like Fat Electrician, Vetiver Tonka, Vetyverio and Annick Goutal's Vetiver.
Vetiverus opens with a soft clove, a soft humming coriander & orange peel accord.
The bitterness from the orange peel, along with the osmanthus and the soft clove result in a magnificent accord.
The accord is a festivity of notes. The sharp unmistake smell of bitter orange, the never intrusive soft coriander-clove aroma and finally the comforting floral osmanthus.
Making it a very easy to wear, yet never boring and always captivating perfume. Taking deep whiffs of pleasure.
The above accord , thankfully, remains strong for a good few hours before the perfume gets very soft and looses the pizzazz it begins with.
If you were to analyze the vetiver note in |absolute value| terms, it is almost identical to that of Fat Electrician. But the perfume has more (above accord) going on so it is not similar to Fat Electrician as-a-perfume. Mentioning this to clarify that the Vetiver is never stark and austere like in Lorenzo Villoresi's Vetiver or Route du Vetiver.
Here comes the huge con.
The dry down has very disturbing note.
It severely needs adjustment.
I noticed this in the majority of Oliver's perfumes.
It feels like a shrieking banshee. Constant and very discomforting.
So keep the above in mind.
1 Comment
