jtd
Perfume Blog
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jtd 9 years ago
1
The Problem of the Fruity Floral
The problem of the fruity floral isn't a problem of genre. It's a problem of abstraction. Abstraction is critical to the art of perfumery because it is key to separating notes and building accords.I use the word abstraction a lot in talking about perfume, so I should explain my meaning. Abstraction...
jtd 9 years ago
1
A Fruity Floral Comparison, or; Big Fish, Small Pond
The fruity floral tends to be a dismal genre. It's not intrinsically bad, but producers in the 2000s chased the least common denominators of the hybrid down a well of banality until there were only two controls left on the soundboard, marked 'sweetness' and 'kool-aid'....
jtd 9 years ago
3
1
Bogue Maai, memento mori and the traps of artisanal perfumery.
Bogue is a small perfume company featuring the work of perfumer Antonio Gardoni. The approach is artisanal in nature in that fine, rare, exotic materials are the basic components, extraction and refinement methods are done in-house and limited volumes are produced....
jtd 9 years ago
1
Andy Farms Voltaire's Garden and Everything's Coming Up Roses, or, The Tauer Roses.
Perfumers are often associated with a particular genre or style. Instead Tauer takes a flower and makes it his focus. He uses it to find his way through and around a number of identifiable genres. He uses rose to play with the notion of what...
jtd 9 years ago
2
The Limits of the Fragrance Wheel
For visual diagrams, we have traditionally relied on two dimensional forms. Diagrams aren't direct visual translations, but representations, devices. They are models, and however rudimentary, they are intellectual constructs. They have rules and, like all description, they seek to reduce...
jtd 9 years ago
2
Slumberhouse, an overview (2014)
How is a line of perfume best viewed? Comparison is easier to see when it’s apples to apples. But the comparison to other perfume houses doesn’t shed much light on Slumberhouse.Why does the comparison of Slumberhouse, and perfumer Josh Lobb, to other perfume lines give so little information?...