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Your favorite perfumer and most loved creation?

Your favorite perfumer and most loved creation? 9 years ago
I borrowed this idea from a current thread over at BN.

. Name your Favorite Perfumer -
. Name your Favorite Scent that he/she created.
9 years ago
Favorite perfumer and composition: Dominique Ropion, "Portrait of a Lady" by Edp Frederic Malle.
Re: Favorite Perfumers 9 years ago
I borrowed this idea from a current thread over at BN.

. Name your Favorite Perfumer -
. Name your Favorite Scent that he/she created.

I'm cheating! I've got to list 2...

Olivia Giacobetti
"Fou d'Absinthe"

Olivier Peschaux
9 years ago
Jean Paul Guerlain

"Chamade Homme"
9 years ago
Christine Nagel,

Guerlain Elixir Charnel Gourmand Coquin
9 years ago
Jean-Paul Guerlain, "Chamade"

Jean-Louis Sieuzac, "Opium"
9 years ago
All perfumeurs have something good to offer, for each person. If I don't like violets, I can't say that violet perfumes are bad or that the nose that created a violet perfume is untalented...

I don't have too many perfumes just by one nose in my wardrobe. I just keep what I wear.

If I were to collect though, I'd gather a lot of Lubin, Rance 1795, F.Kurkdjian, Hermes, Bois 192o, Guerlain. So I'd have a lot of perfumes created by noses working for these houses, so you could say those are some favourites.

But it's not too relevant, since I have some fragrances I find stunning from noses by which I don't like/have any other perfume.

Also not relevant because most of the times, perfumeurs are not given the posibility to express their talent too much, they're given certain limited possibilities. Sometimes, by the same nose we can find a less than average perfume for a cheaper- or more commercial brand, and an absolute unique beauty for another perfume house. So you see, you can't judge their talent so simple, or think "oh, I don't like any of his/her creations so far, so I won't try this either"- you might be missing out a lot.
9 years ago
I agree, Bouzeos. I wouldn't say all of Christine Nagel's creations are my favorite--there are a bunch I don't like anyway--and there are many that I like that don't have a perfumer's name attached to them that I know of.
9 years ago
If I may disagree, Bouzeos.

Working under the pressure of restrictions (budget, marketing strategy etc) is not a place to shine for anyone, perfumers included. This is the major flaw of mass market scents where all and any creativity is being obliterated. At that level perfumers are more concerned whether they meet the market requirements well enough to secure themselves another similar gig. Moreover, the big players in this market are also notorious for employing the same chemists to work on "fine fragrance" as on laundry detergent scents. So yes, in this field talking about the nose behind the fragrance is often irrelevant.

However, that's just one, although admittedly the biggest one, part of the perfumescape. If we look at the scope of niche and artisan perfumes created under much more liberal conditions, it's evident that even with very precise briefs by creative directors, the unique style of each perfumer shines through. Jean Claude Ellena brings his sleek minimalist vision into everything he does. Bertrand Duchaufour's work is always recognizable too, no matter if it is sold under L'Artisan, Penhaligons or Neela Vermeire label. With significantly older creations "marketing" was not even an issue and most perfumers were their own creative directors anyway, so in vintages it's even more apparent.

Maitre parfumeurs do venture into mass market labels once in a while, like Annick Menardo did with her Black for Bvlgari which to this day is the black sheep (forgive the pun) of that tightlipped flock.
But we don't see the likes of Alberto Morillas making perfumes for Comme des Garcons and MPG, and there's good reason for that.
8 years ago
It's too difficult to choose just one. Wink Jacques and Jean-Paul Guerlain both were geniuses, and some of their work makes my heart soar. Modern perfumers have the advantage of some cool new molecules but are hamstrung by the allergen restrictions. In spite of that, Duchaufour consistently produces fine work and has managed to be prolific without compromising his standards, unlike Morillas, who seems to churn out quite a bit of dreck for every good perfume he creates. Andy Tauer also deserves a mention for originality, quality and integrity.
More than 1 8 years ago
I can't decide as i'm more in love with the actual scents, but I narrowed it down to my current faves:
Chanel No. 5
Only For Her by Hayari Parfums, Paris
Prada Candy l'eau

8 years ago
I seem to favour perfume by Michel Almairac, Cuir Amethyste, the new Ivoire and others. I also follow JCE quite deliberately. My favourite perfumes are Chanel 19 EDP, Musc Nomade, Bal a Versailles, Y (YSL), Mitsouko, Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille and too many to mention
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