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Sniff Fest - Learning Chypre

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9 years ago
Suddenly there is a great commotion at Nimlot’s palace—the sound of many horses and camels outside. Much talking in the courtyard. A large company assembles in the great hall, among them many foreign men, two of them clearly princes. Translators are making such a clamor with their translations that no one can hear a thing. Prince Nimlot sits on his throne and calls the two princes forward, who claim to be Yasmin’s former and current husbands. Distraught and confused, Nimlot calls Yasmin to the hall. When she enters she almost faints. “Where is my son?” Walad demands. Nimlot replies, “We don’t know. Someone kidnapped him and his sister from her palace.”

Fizur, who is also present, realizes something is very wrong. Why is Ahmed not reacting to the news Yasmin has a daughter since, obviously, he must be the father? Why do they think Yasmin’s children are here? Smelling a plot, he turns to me, writer of plots that I am. The Valide Sultan, missing her grandson, has also been watching impatiently over my shoulder. She sees Fizur and yells to him, “The children are hidden in a nearby palace!” Then she informs me she’s hauling out her magic carpets from the Incense sniff fest and going to Nimlot’s palace herself! I forbid it. Stories can’t have that much deus ex machina, I explain, as Aristotle told us in his Poetics. “You a Persian want me to listen to a Greek!?” she fumes. “Apparently you’ve never heard of Spartans or the Battle of Marathon.” Exasperated, I order Fizur and the Valide Sultan back into the story.

It is morning. Yasmin is ready to name her finalists in the chypre sniff fest. Before starting, she asks, “Author have you thought of how to get me out of my predicaments?” I reply honestly, “Not yet because, unlike novels, sniff fests are published on first draft and can’t be revised to make the story better. We must live with blind alleys, hiccups, stray wonderings and mistakes. The conclusion of this story must unfold on its own and rely on the characters’ good will.” She informs me the Valide Sultan doesn’t have any of that. Neither does Prince Ahmed, who is still obsessed.

Realizing perfume is our only refuge, we begin. Yasmin points out we didn’t do the Mossy Woods accord properly. It’s oakmoss, amber and wood. We did oakmoss, amber and citrus. I try again: oakmoss (intoxicating by itself) amber (lovely but it mutes the allure of oakmoss a bit) and patchouli go on my hand. Well, okay, this is a different musty animal than a chypre. It’s in the ballpark, mind you, and we’ve smelt this a lot, but it isn’t chypre. I spray the reference, Chypre de Coty, on my other hand to show Yasmin why. A chypre soars, captivates, lures, entrances. A Mossy Wood keeps its feet agreeably on the ground. I add bergamot to the Mossy Wood. The result is a great deal better, but still earthbound. The key is a chypre’s labdanum vs a mossy wood’s amber. Now, let’s sort things.

THE TRUE CHYPRES

In this sniff fest they are surprisingly few, 16 precisely.

Amouage
Fate Woman

Balenciaga
Balenciaga Paris

Killian
Back to Black
Love & Tears

Caron
Yatagan

Clive Christian
V for Women

Coty
Chypre de Coty

D.S. & Durga
Sir

Dior
Miss Dior Original

DSH
Mirabella

Roja Parfums (2010)
Diaghilev
Enslaved
Nüwa (2013)
Roja
Unspoken

Tauer Perfumes
No. 08 - Une Rose Chyprée |

———

NO BERGAMOT

These chypres substitute something else for bergamot, often mandarin or another citrus. They still smell like proper chypres because of oakmoss and labdanum

Amouage
Memoir Woman

Carven
Ma Griffe

La Prairie
Life Threads Platinum

Naomi Goodsir
Bois d’Ascèse

Oriza L. LeGrand
Chypre Mousse (2013)

Parfums MDCI (2012)
Chypre Palatin

Oriza L. Legrand
Chypre Mousse (2013)

Sisley
Eau du Soir

Sonoma Scent Studio
Forest Walk
Incense Pure

———

MOSSY WOODS

These have am amber-oakmoss-wood accord per the Edwards Fragrance Wheel

Balmain
Miss Balmain |

Bijan
Bijan Women |

Cartier
Panthère de Cartier

Dana
Tabu |

Emanuel Ungaro
Diva |

Estēe Lauder
Azurēe | Knowing |

Fendi
Fendi |

Gucci
L'Arte di Gucci |

Halston
Halston |

Paloma Picasso
Paloma Picasso / Mon Parfum (Eau de Parfum) |

Robert Piguet
Bandit |

Serge Lutens
Chypre rouge |

Tommi Sooni
Tarantella |

Van Cleef & Arpels
First |

———

THE NEW CHYPRES

These have labdanum and patchouli/vetiver, the faux oakmoss

Amouage
Jubilation 25 Woman
Solange Azagury-Partridge
Cosmic |

———

THE EXILES
Per strict definition, these are neither a chypre, a mossy wood, nor a new chypre. Some are quite beautiful, but without labdanum or amber, not in the same genre.

Benetton
Colors de Benetton |

Caron
Lady Caron | Tabac Blond |

Chanel
31 rue Cambon | Coco Mademoiselle (Eau de Parfum) | Cristalle (Eau de Toilette) | Cuir de Russie (2007) |

Clinique
Aromatics Elixir |

Curve / Liz Claiborne
Liz Claiborne |

DSH Perfumes
Parfum de Grasse |

Estēe Lauder
Private Collection | Private Collection Jasmine White Moss |

Guerlain
Mitsouko |

Grossmith
Hasu-no-Hana |

Jean-Louis Scherrer
Jean-Louis Scherrer |

Ormonde Jayne
Tiare |

Paco Rabanne
Métal |

[I don’t have samples of some potentially splendid chypres, for example: Gucci pour Homme, Habit Rouge EdC, Knive Forest, Life Essence by Fendi, Monsier Carven, Versace L’Homme and many more. Type bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss into the search engine to find them.]

Now that we’ve organized things, next come the finalists.
9 years ago
As always ScentFan Your stories and perfume experiences are a pleasure to read. Thank you so much for taking the time to share them. It was actually your Rose Sniff fest that led me to perfumo in the first place Smile
Last edited by Briarthorn on 01.08.2015, 07:47; edited 1 time in total
9 years ago
Hi, Briarthorn. The Rose Sniff Fest was tremendous fun. Glad it inspired you to become a perfumista, but apologies to your purse! This sniff fest has taught me the difference between a true chypre (labdanum and oakmoss at minimum), a new chypre (labdanum and patchouli/vetiver), a mossy wood (amber and oakmoss with wood) and a perfume that simply has a strong note of oakmoss (Mitsuoku). Never would have guessed it wasn't a chypre by definition or a mossy wood. But who cares, right, when it's so gorgeous? Back to Yasmin and the finals...

Briarthorn:
As always ScentFan Your stories and perfume experiences are a pleasure to read. Thank you so much for taking the time to share them. It was actually your Rose Sniff fest that led me to perfume in the first place Smile
9 years ago
Yesterday while the men argued in the great hall, causing Yasmin to repeatedly faint, Fizur sent his men to search the nearby palaces. Taken by surprise, guards handed the children over and carried them to Fizur and his wife, Diba, who now wait in a hidden courtyard of Nimlot’s palace. Yasmin’s parents are there as well, fetched by Fizur, who has secretly organized several chariots. Up in the great hall, Nimlot discovered Keket hid the children and when she refused to reveal their location, had her tied to a pillory in the main courtyard and left to bake in the sun without water until she relents. This caused all in Nimlot’s castle such anxiety—that he should so mistreat a woman of noble birth—that he personally went out, untied her and apologized. Keket then revealed the children’s location which was subsequently searched and found to be empty, causing even more consternation.

Only now, as three armies search for the children, do the men broach the other subject that is upsetting everyone. Nimlot goes to Yasmin and puts his arm around her. “Is what they say true, Yasmin? Are you still married?” Enraged, Ahmed steps forward. “Take your arm from around my wife!” Walad, also enraged, shouts, “You divorced her, Ahmed, and she was my wife first!” Unfortunately, in spite of divorces, they can’t forget her—even Walad, who has married Havva, Ahmed’s sharp-tongued sister. (How Walad regrets that day.) Nimlot, too, is now so jealous he can’t think.

As the three men turn to Yasmin in newly roused emotion, the impossibility of her situation dawns on her. Lurking, Fizur waits for her to faint. Yet again she promptly does. When the men turn away, sighing and grumbling, Fizur lifts Yasmin and carries her down to the hidden courtyard. Diba splashes water on Yasmin’s face. She awakes and, seeing her children, is overjoyed, but she barely gets to hug them before the chariots must take off. Fizur and Yasmin are in one with a faithful driver. Diba is in another, specially fitted to protect children, hers and Fizur's included. Yasmin’s mother and father are in a third. Behind them follow Yasmin’s army, ready to engage any pursuers. “Where to this time?” Fizur asks Yasmin.

At first, Yasmin is thrilled to escape, since she prizes freedom above love. “Thank you, Fizur," she says, "I owe you everything. Go anywhere the three men who love me are not.” But soon she feels depressed at now taking three heirs from three royal fathers, though the danger of them killing each other seems lessened. More importantly, she is depriving all her children of their fathers’ love. These thoughts cause her to order the chariots to stop. Weeping in desolation, she wonders why all this has happened to her in the first place. I would apologize since I’m the author, but it’s not entirely my fault, either. Few authors can say who or what wrote their stories. Muses misbehave extraordinarily at times, which is why revision is an author’s best friend.

Suddenly there is a rumble in the air. Clouds part, and even though I told her not to, the Valide Sultan descends on the scene with her full retinue, all on magic carpets. Good grief!

I ignore her and tell Yasmin to as well. Instead, we pick the finalists and pretend we don't see magic carpets landing. Given the beauty oakmoss lends to a fragrance, we are not surprised the first list will be long. However, before we can even begin, clouds of dust arise on the desert behind Yasmin’s chariots--which can only mean Prince Ahmed, Sultan Walad and Prince Nimlot are in hot pursuit and mayhem is about to ensue (as, however unwelcome, mayhem periodically does). Quick, I say to Yasmin, let's pick before they get here:

TRUE CHYPRES

Balenciaga
Balenciaga Paris

Killian
Back to Black

Caron
Yatagan

Clive Christian
V for Women

Coty
Chypre de Coty

D.S. & Durga
Sir

DSH
Mirabella

Roja Parfums (2010)
Diaghilev
Roja

———

NO BERGAMOT

These chypres substitute something else for bergamot, often mandarin or another citrus. They still smell like proper chypres because of oakmoss and labdanum

La Prairie
Life Threads Platinum

Naomi Goodsir
Bois d’Ascèse

Oriza L. LeGrand
Chypre Mousse (2013)

Sisley
Eau du Soir

———

MOSSY WOODS

These have am amber-oakmoss-wood accord per the Edwards Fragrance Wheel

Bijan
Bijan Women |

Cartier
Panthère de Cartier

Dana
Tabu |

Emanuel Ungaro
Diva |

Estēe Lauder
Azurēe | Knowing |

Fendi
Fendi |

Gucci
L'Arte di Gucci |

Serge Lutens
Chypre rouge |

Tommi Sooni
Tarantella |

Van Cleef & Arpels
First |

If we’re allowing Mossy Woods, I have to add other favorites:

Fougere Royale
Houbigant

Cabochard
Parfums Gres

Creation
Ted Lapidus

Roja Dove
Mischief

Or des Schythes
Novaya Zarya

Rochas Femme
Rochas

Rumba
Ted Lapidus
THE EXILES
Per strict definition, these are neither a chypre, a mossy wood, nor a new chypre. Some are quite beautiful, but without labdanum or amber, not in the same genre.

Chanel
Cuir de Russie (2007) |

Guerlain
Mitsouko |

Jean-Louis Scherrer
Jean-Louis Scherrer |

Ormonde Jayne
Tiare |

Paco Rabanne
Métal |
9 years ago
Oh, you mean led you to parfumo? Great place, yes? Freedom. Fabulous database.

ScentFan:
Hi, Briarthorn. The Rose Sniff Fest was tremendous fun. Glad it inspired you to become a perfumista, but apologies to your purse! This sniff fest has taught me the difference between a true chypre (labdanum and oakmoss at minimum), a new chypre (labdanum and patchouli/vetiver), a mossy wood (amber and oakmoss with wood) and a perfume that simply has a strong note of oakmoss (Mitsuoku). Never would have guessed it wasn't a chypre by definition or a mossy wood. But who cares, right, when it's so gorgeous? Back to Yasmin and the finals...

Briarthorn:
As always ScentFan Your stories and perfume experiences are a pleasure to read. Thank you so much for taking the time to share them. It was actually your Rose Sniff fest that led me to perfume in the first place Smile
9 years ago
Armies and magic carpets surround Yasmin’s chariots. At first, all is silent then Sultan Walad, his mother the Valide Sultan, Prince Ahmed and Prince Nimlot approach. Seeing her grandson in Diba’s chariot, the Valide Sultan cries out and picks him up, covering his chubby cheeks with kisses. Walad, standing by, takes his son, Adur, from her and happily holds him. Ahmed, seeing little Dori, cradles his radiant daughter and weeps. Walad announces to Yasmin, “Either say goodbye now to your children or return with us!” Yasmin’s heart sinks at the idea of being separated from Adur and Dori. Swiftly, Nimlot draws his scimitar, puts Yasmin behind him then says. “She is not leaving with any of you! I have kept my part of the bargain and it didn’t include Yasmin. Take your children and go!” Nimlot has been picturing Yasmin beside him on a throne like his ancestor Tutankhamun and his great royal wife Ankhesenamun, or Ramses II and Nefertari since their reigns were longer.



Walad’s friend, the Imam Rahim, who has accompanied Walad says, “Custody of the children must be resolved according to the Q’uran.” Prince Ahmed, who is Zoroastrian says, “Not for my child.” He looks at Walad and they read each others’ minds: get Yasmin out of here and fight over her later. “Our children need their mother!”

At this, Nimlot moves Yasmin aside and takes on a countenance she has never seen. In him seems to rise the heart of pharaohs, casting their magic upon him, lengthening his fighting arm, putting the fire of Egypt’s gods* in Nimlot’s eyes. Ahmed and Walad come forward in response, if hesitantly now. “Wherever we humans gather,” Nimlot says in a booming voice, “justice follows. Let each of us to be tried within its halls. Speak truth, and you will live. Lie and my gods will know. I will kill you.” All pause, the desert silent, even the Valide Sultan. Indeed, a jackal-headed shadow does seem to crawl across the sand, promising death. “Tell me how you came to know Queen Yasmin!” Nimlot demands.

The Imam Rahim, not about to have Allah outshone by Egypt’s gods, says. The Holy Quran says, “O you who believe, keep your duty to Allah and speak straight, true words.” All nod. Walad begins with a recitation of his conquest of Yasmin’s kingdom, her time in his harem, his perfume wooing and their marriage. Then he stops and stares at his mother, who haughtily says. “I thought he was sterile and we needed an heir so I had Prince Ahmed try to impregnate her. My son found out and sent her into exile. “From which I rescued her,” says Ahmed and made her my wife when Walad divorced her.” Nimlot turns to Yasmin. “How came you to Africa?” Yasmin says, “My child was clearly Walad’s, but Ahmed refused to give him to his father. Fearing they’d kill each other, I came here with my son, not knowing I was pregnant with Ahmed’s child.” Nimlot stares at her. “You were unfaithful to Walad when he was your husband! You were unfaithful to Ahmed with me!” Taken aback, Yasmin begins to weep so desperately that Diba rushes forward with perfumes to console her. “ Here, mistress, sniff. Pick finalists,” Diba says. Emboldened, the Valide Sultan yells out orders. “Make camp, all of you! Such a grave matter needs time to resolve.” The Valide Sultan also wants to consult with Rahim and ensure the Q’uran doesn’t take her grandson away—assuming they can reason with Nimlot.

I tell Yasmin not to faint and she nods. While everyone works, we put the semi-finalists on test strips and sniff.

We begin with the true chypres, each wafting a slightly different beautiful take on the luxurious accord up to us as we wet the test papers. How will we choose between them? Balenciaga Paris has a gorgeous violet accent; by Killian Back to Black features honey, sweet spice and wood; Caron Yatagan is a complex splendor in which galbanum and lavendar star; Clive Christian V for Women is a potent dream of a scent with gardenia the star; Coty de Chypre intoxicates with civet, jasmine, rose and its strong rendering of the core accord; D.S. and Durga’s Sir is a a sultry citrus woodland fantasy with patchouli its strongest note; DHS Mirabella is animalic with civet starring but the leather, patchouli and many florals hold their own; Roja Dove’s Diaghilev is a deeply involving wonder, such a beauty of citrus, fruit, florals, animalic, spice and resin that it’s hard to describe—its depth of scent somewhat similar to Clive Christian V though the latter is sweeter; finally we sniff the dregs of Roja on a paper many days old. There’s hardly anything left, but I tell Yasmin it may be the greatest perfume I’ve ever smelled, even exceeding Diaghilev.

Now we’re close to anosmic so must wait to confirm our picks. Reluctantly we eliminate Yatagan, Mirabella and Back to Black for being of slightly less depth. We think life ought to allow a perfumista to own ALL the rest in this category because Yasmin and I can’t smell any of them without moaning. We can’t even rank them. Okay, let’s try.

Roja Perfumes
Roja (Haute Lux)
Diaghilev

Clive Christian
V for Women

Coty
Coty de Chypre

D. S. & Durga
Sir

Balenciaga
Balenciaga Paris

Are we sure? Nope. We’ll revisit in the next post, but I've concluded that the classic chypre accord (bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss) lends such beauty to a fragrance, chances are it will be hard to resist.

* Christianity had taken hold in Egypt by the time of Muhammed and it was under Roman rule. Egyptian and Meroe pharaohs were long gone. They co-exist for the purposes of this sniff fest.
Last edited by ScentFan on 03.08.2015, 23:49; edited 1 time in total
9 years ago
After putting the six surviving true chypres on skin, the final ranking of them remains as it was, though it isn’t initially possible to choose among these beauties. The drydown helps because the Balenciaga is a faint memory in a couple of hours. The Clive Christian not long after. Only because they have more projection and longevity, do these true chypres enter the finals.

Roja Perfumes
Roja (Haute Lux)
Diaghilev

D. S. & Durga
Sir

Coty
Coty de Chypre

When tents are constructed and a fire built, Yasmin, her parents, her lover and former husbands, as well as the Valide Sultan and Imam Rahim gather around it. By now court musicians have been summoned from the palace by Fizur to encourage calm.

The haunting sound of lute, flute, drum and bell drifts across the desert. Nimlot has agreed not to bring his scimitar, but if looks could kill, his would. Angrily he says to Yasmin, “Why did you give yourself to Ahmed when you were married to Walad?” Yasmin covers her face. The Valide Sultan sighs. “She didn’t. I drugged her and my son.” Nimlot's brows furrow in outrage. Yasmin says, “I cannot accept that absolution. I was unfaithful to you later, Walad, when you sent me into exile, but you violated your Islamic law, too, by doing that. Repeatedly Ahmed scaled my balcony in secret to look upon me. I felt haunted by his presence and, yes, I lay with him.“ Glaring at the Valide Sultan, the Iman Rahim says, “Remnants of a drugged memory, no doubt.” Nimlot’s eyes squint as if recalling something. “Yes, it is true. She is still affected in that way. Yasmin, why were you unfaithful to Ahmed with me?” he says. Yasmin’s father Ara speaks. “For months she refused all courtships until yours persisted. I informed her Ahmed would have divorced her by now of necessity.” Ahmed hangs his head in acknowledgment.

While they’re pondering I sneak the chypres without bergamot to Yasmin. We eliminate Panthère because though it has the chypre accord, its many florals, animalics, woods and spice really make it an oriental. Yasmin says she can’t pick between these four. I agree that each is too stunning to eliminate. The finals grow to 10 chypres.

Sisley
Eau du Soir

Naomi Goodsir
Bois d’Ascèse

Oriza L. LeGrand
Chypre Mousse (2013)

La Prairie
Life Threads Platinum
Nimlot says. “Here is my truth, dear Yasmin. Your mother-in-law discovered your location and asked me to lure you to my palace, kidnap your children and send them to her. This in exchange for avoiding an Arab invasion. When I met you this intention weakened. Soon I loved you. To myself I vowed never to do you harm.”

All women present are taken aback by this declaration, and urge Yasmin to resume the sniffs so they won’t faint. [In the real world, fainting didn’t become routine until the 16th century when corsets were invented]

Back to the sniffs: Mossy Woods (amber-oakmoss-woods). Azuree, Knowing, Fendi and Chypre Rouge are the dryer ones of the Mossy Woods group. Though each is delightful, my guess is they have more woods, less oakmoss and amber. They don’t yield quite the resinous mossiness of the rest. Diva and Tarantella are on the borderline. Bijan Women, Dana, First, and L’Arte di Gucci each reek luxuriously. Which are closer to the smell of a true chypre? It could be argued that the dryer Mossy Woods are, because the latter group, laden with florals, are really orientals. However there’s nothing dry about Coty de Chypre, Diaghilev or Sir. The difference between the scent of Mossy Woods and the true chypres is labdanum, a quite luxurious note. I’m on the Fence. So is Yasmin. Okay, out with the orientals, gorgeous though they are. [If you like orientals, try to get every one of them.] Fendi has so much wood it smells like a pencil sharpener after a bit, so out with it too. That leaves:

Estēe Lauder
Azurēe | Knowing |

Serge Lutens
Chypre rouge |

Tommi Sooni
Tarantella |

The finals grow to 14 perfumes. To be continued...
9 years ago
Testing on skin narrows the 14 finalists of those sniffed so far down to 7:

Roja Perfumes
Roja (Haute Lux)
Diaghilev

D. S. & Durga
Sir

Coty
Coty de Chypre

Oriza L. LeGrand
Chypre Mousse (2013)

Sisley
Eau du Soir

Estēe Lauder
Azurēe

Nimlot stands and turns to Yasmin. “Only one question remains. Who do you love, my queen? Who has your heart?” Ahmed and Walad also rise. With no hesitation Yasmin says, “The one who has done me no harm is the love of my heart and my loins. Nimlot, I am pregnant with your child!” At that, Ahmed and Walad run for their weapons. Nimlot grabs his and meets them, a thousand pharaohs in his countenance. Neither Fizur nor the other soldiers interfere in this clash of ruler and princes as they churn the desert’s sand into the sky, Egyptian lance against Persian shield, Arab scimitar slashing Egyptian leather armor — not a two-on-one fight, but swiftly all against all, fighting for Yasmin and ignoring the women’s cries.

Given this distraction, I’d better sniff the next group: Other favorites that contain the Mossy Woods accord.

Parfums Gres
Cabochard

One of my very favorites and it definitely qualifies for this sniff fest, having both oakmoss and patchouli/vetiver in the base. Amber instead of labdanum makes it a Mossy Wood. Though there are multiple florals in the heart—Geranium, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang-ylang—they don’t overpower the woody mossiness. Like a chypre or mossy wood this is a dry fragrance and a sweepingly beautiful one. A definite for the final sniff.

Ted Lapidus
Creation

Though it also has both oakmoss and patchouli/vetiver in the base, Creation is much too sweet to be a chypre. Technically, it qualifies as both a Mossy Wood and an Oriental, but the latter category is really where it belongs. It’s a beauty, just doesn’t belong in this crowd.

Novaya Zarya
Or des Schythes

This splendid Russian Mossy Wood also goes in the finals. It has bergamot in the top, amber, oakmoss and two woods in the base. The three florals and two fruits in the heart don’t dominate the lovely dry base and the result holds its own in this genre.

Rochas Femme
Rochas

Like Creation, this darling isn’t dry enough for this category. Fruit, spice and florals dominate the amber-oakmoss-wood accord.

Roja Dove
Mischief

Can’t find this. Must search tomorrow.

Walad is the first to be injured and fall to the ground. Next is Nimlot, but he rises and in fury at Ahmed, the defiler, fells him with a blow to the chest. When all are still, Yasmin rushes to her true love come at last and the men whose children she has borne. She, her mother Freni, the Valide Sultan, Diba and Tiye bind their wounds, apply healing herbs and ointments and give them wine. The Imam Rahim says extra prayers when it is time for salat, but Yasmin and the Valide Sultan pray through the night.
9 years ago
By the next morning, a miracle. All three men are mobile, if painfully.

Determined, the Imam Rahib calls for a conference in the name of Allah. “Brave warriors are you all, but you vie over one woman and one womb. Here is what the Q’uran says and I suggest it is wisdom enough for Persian and Egyptian gods, as well. Since it seems adultery was forced upon you, Queen Yasmin, you are innocent of its result. The Q’uran allows you the right of custody over Adur until he is seven and the right of custody over Dori until her puberty. Ahmed and Walad, you are both guilty of sins against Yasmin. Do not displease the one god by opposing this. Yasmin should live with the man she loves, assuming they marry.”

THE EXILES

This is the final group to sample: perfumes considered chypres or mossy woods without actually being either in terms of their notes. Oakmoss simply dominates.

Chanel
Cuir de Russie (2007)

A spare beauty with a strong note of birchwood that, in its dryness, reminds of mossy woods. Without amber or lambdanum and with no oakmoss, it doesn’t approach the luxury of the others. Is it gorgeous? Yes, but it’s not voluptuous enough to compete in this genre.

Guerlain
Mitsouko

Without question, this is the reigning non-chypre chypre. Oakmoss dominates the scent from the base. Without labdanum or amber, it isn’t technically either a chypre or a mossy wood, but for the fact that everyone considers it a chypre. IMO, the vintage version is one of the reigning queens of perfumery. Definite for the finals.

Jean-Louis Scherrer
Jean-Louis Scherrer

This is my first time testing this fragrance and it’s a charmer. Love galbanum in the top and the refreshing citrus note (bergamot/tangerine). The base is lovely because of both oakmoss and patchouli/vetiver. Mysore sandalwood is there as well. The heart is classic: iris, jasmine, rose. It’s lovely and close to being a mossy wood. Okay for the finals.

Ormonde Jayne
Tiare

The citrus top and exotic floral heart challenge the mossy-woody base of: patchouli/vetiver, moss, and two other woods. I don’t think it can hold its own in this genre.

Paco Rabanne
Métal

I wore this for years and still adore it. Strong oakmoss and wood in the base and a greenish/citrus top help tame the lovely floral heart enough for it to resemble a chypre.
—————-

Since I never found Roja Dove Mischief, we are left with 12 stunners to choose from: and here they are in order by name: Azurēe, Chypre Mousse, Cabochard, Coty de Chypre, Diaghilev, Eau du Soir, Jean-Louis Sherrer, Or des Schythes, Metal, Mitsouko, Sir. I pull Yasmin from the conference so she can help me halve this seemingly nonreducible list. Only criteria? Swooning.

We sniff, grudgingly discarding fragrances we both prize. Yasmin says, “I am sure there is a nose that could further winnow this group, but it doesn’t belong to me”. Me either, but I’ll try. Here are the (no doubt predictable for many at parfumo) results, and one surprise which held its own throughout:

SIX MOST AMAZINGLY BEAUTIFUL CHYPRES OR MOSSY WOODS

Azurēe, Cabochard, Coty de Chypre, Diaghilev, Mitsouko, Sir.

Roja Dove’s Roja (Haute Lux) isn’t here simply because there’s not enough left to afford a credible sniff. In terms of the art of perfumery itself, Diaghilev may be the standout, though I couldn’t wear it because it says “male” to me. Sir, too, which I gave away to hubby. He says it’s currently his favorite. Testing the rest on skin again…if I had to pick one of these, I couldn’t. Azurēe doesn’t hold up as well as the others, but there’s no choosing between vintage Cabochard, Coty de Chypre and Mitsouko. I'll just say there's a reason why Coty de Chypre is considered the reference chypre. It may be old, but it's still a knock-out.

STORY CONCLUSION

Yasmin and Nimlot look at each other and laugh, remembering his joking vow not to marry her. “But Adur is my grandson!” the Valide Sultan cries.

Nimlot says, “You have a magic carpet, woman. Use it. Come visit him when you like. He glares at Ahmed and Walad. You two may visit your children as well—in the presence of my guards.” At that, Nimlot puts his arms around Yasmin and leans on her as they go to one of the chariots. Though injured, he needs no driver. He whips the horses into a trot back toward his palace, those in his household following, including the children driven by Fizur in their specially outfitted chariot.

Yasmin looks back at her injured ex-husbands and the Valide Sultan, a bereft grandmother. She gazes at Nimlot, who nods and pauses the chariot. Yasmin calls, “You may begin your first visit now, if you like.”

This is how Yasmin, a Persian princess, came to marry her true love Nimlot, an Egyptian prince, and live happily*—if with frequent comings and goings of magic carpets.
*I’d say happily ever after but who can speak for sniff fests yet unwrit. We hope you enjoyed this one. Yasmin and the characters all bow.
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