Foren-Übersicht Men's Perfume Sniff Fest - Hubby's Collection
ScentFan
ScentFan
421 Posts
ScentFanScentFan Sniff Fest - Hubby's Collection 21.09.2015, 16:43


Hi, guys. This is my first visit to the men’s forum. A sniff fest through hubby’s collection has been on my to-do list for a long while, so I thought I’d do it here. Too many times he’s put something delightful on, asked me to sniff, and I found myself unable to identify the fragrance—even when I’d given it to him as a gift. Time to educate my nose and improve my guesses. His is a small collection (33) of mostly staggeringly beautiful (IMO) fragrances ranging in price from bargain basement to let’s-not-mention-it. (Btw, if anything smart-aleck or scandalous gets said in these sniffs, it’s not me. It’s my bad girl alter ego, ScentGal. I’ll try to keep her in line.)

Here goes, in alpha order by brand.

Acqua di Parma
Colonia Oud / Colonia Intensa Oud |

In my early perfumista days a clerk had me sniff it and I was sunk. Let’s see how it strikes me now, almost two years later. Wow, on paper it’s a heady knock-your-socks-off citrusy, oudy, woody, wonder. Musk adds allure and by amyris I’m thinking they must mean the intoxicating balsam called Elemi exuded from the stems of the flowering plant. Elemi could make dirt smell good. From experience we’ve learned this scent does not wash easily off, so before applying it make sure you adore it. I do. Putting some on skin, the elemi/oud/cedar are pronounced. I just can’t stop smelling my hand. Not only is longevity incredible, so is projection, i.e., sillage. A whiff of this and many a female will look around for the alpha male who must be near. It’s a bit loud, I suppose from the cedar and oud, but I adore it.

Berdoues
1902 Eau de Cologne Premium Collection - Vetiveria Herbacea |

Saw this fresh and economical darling mentioned in a forum topic. The simple combo of tangerine, vetiver and woods creates a clean and delightful, almost herbal, scent as vetiver mellows the fruity tangerine. It’s a very inviting, even intoxicating, and distinctive spring/summer fragrance.

Bottega Veneta
Bottega Veneta pour Homme |

This quite sophisticated male scent will work in any setting. Bergamot and labdanum lend beauty to the intensely male pine, juniper, fir resin, leather and patchouli. Clary sage soothes. Pimento adds a bit of freshness. If Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa Oud is the CEO, this fragrance is the sauve chairman of the board, while Berdoues 1902 is the extrovert V.P. of Marketing.

Coty
Musk for Men |

Hubby bought it blind and this is my first test of it. I like the women’s vintage Coty perfumes, so I’m optimistic… Well, to me, this scent isn’t on the executive floor. It’s that new guy in acquisitions trying to seduce all the young women. Mind you, the ambery, woody, muskiness is all right, if a bit pedestrian. Lemon helps a bit. Not sure I want to smell it on my guy.

Creed
Aventus |

Come the Creeds. I know I’d better have something good to say about Aventus or else. Oh, wow. Distinctive fresh pineapple with apple, black currant and bergamot announces something special about to come and sure enough, the woody-floral, junipery middle doesn’t disappoint. All are supported by my kind of base: oakmoss, musk, ambergris, sweetened with vanilla. Aventus is the CEO of a top competitor who hopes to trounce the Acqua di Parma CEO. More laid back and sophisticated, Aventus thinks the AdP CEO is too loud and intimidates people. Everyone likes the sharp and open Aventus guy, but is he tough enough? This is a not-to-be-ignored heck of a perfume, managing to be fresh and elegant all at once. It deserves its fame in perfumedom. Longevity is great.

Millésime Impérial|

However, this is the first one to close my eyes in pleasure. What’s in it? A trio of luscious citrus for a top note, Iris in the center with fresh and watery marine notes, and a classic amber, musk, sandalwood base, here not ordinary like in the Coty. It has a certain quirky complexity that speaks to my alter ego, ScentGal. It makes her think of that good-looking genius in R&D with all the patents, who makes guitars in his spare time. Maybe she’ll take him some sinful chocolate chip cookies, see what he’s inventing now. Whereas Aventus inspires admiration, Millésime Impérial captivates. Unfortunately, its charms don’t linger as long as those of Aventus. Soon enough the R&D guy is back in his lab, being mysterious again.

Re-sniffing all…there’s not a clunker in the group, though the Coty is on the lightweight side for me, compared to the rest. Otherwise, they’re head turners all.

To be continued…
Last edited by ScentFan on 01.07.2016, 15:24; edited 1 time in total

ScentFan
ScentFan
421 Posts
ScentFanScentFan 22.09.2015, 05:40
Creed (cont)

Original Santal|

The first time I went to a Creed counter and smelled the men’s perfumes, one caused such a reaction I’ll let my alter ego ScentGal tell about it. {CENSORED} Sorry, I can’t repeat that. Here’s the rub — not only did I ignore my reaction, I didn’t write down the name of the perfume! Ever since, I’ve been trying to find it. Was it this? Not sure. Was it just a fleeting moment, never to be matched? Original Santal obviously has sandalwood—mysore, thank you very much. The heart is lavender/herbal and the base rocks—cedar as well as sandalwood, ambergris and musk with vanilla and benzoin. All I know is the first sniff left me defenseless, like continued sniffing on skin almost does now. Eyes close. Thought stops. ScentGal returns and I have to censor her once more. The man who wears Original Santal is no seducer of young women. Women of all ages flock to him because he is fascinated by the fairer sex, adores their femininity and charm, wants to take them on his yacht and sail away. More’s the pity for just one yacht and just one lifetime.

Silver Mountain Water |

Opening with indolic citrus, this is definitely a marine scent made interesting in the heart with green tea and black currant bud, which soon becomes the strongest note, supported by a simple base of sandalwood and musk.

For me, Silver Mountain Waiter is the least of these four creeds, the black currant bud too strong. Aventus and Original Santal share first place—depending on the agenda.
D.S. & Durga
"Sir" |

I did a D.S. & Durga sniff fest, bought this, then gave it to hubby it’s so obviously male, like its name. Sir is a gorgeous chypre that holds its own with the best. It definitely has something in it besides the listed notes because an animalic element I call “the zoo” comes through, if not enough to spoil the sheer beauty of a bright citrus top, gorgeous floral center, and oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum thrumming the base. Who’s wearing this? Maybe the U.N. Secretary General though he might hold out for sniffs to come.

Davidoff
Cool Water |

With tobacco, geranium and lavender in the mix, this smells like an old-fashioned barbershop. Not unpleasant but not modern to my nose. It makes me think of my dad.

Dolce & Gabbana
"Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme (2012)" |

Whoa! This one’s definitely not my dad. The bright citrus top balances the tobacco/tonka/cedar base and allows the odd middle of lavender, pepper and sage to shine. An intoxicating perfume, bright but manly. Love, love. Wear this to an interview and you’ll be hired, to an evaluation and they’ll double your raise. It’s a scent made for business success—appealing without going over the edge.

The One for Men (Eau de Toilette) |

Nice, but for me not as appealing as pour Homme. It has a slightly soapy note rising from the sweet spice and no musk or animalic to balance the sweetness intensified by orange blossom. Grapefruit in the top helps, but not enough, nor does tobacco and cedar in the base. I’m sure this is the one for some, but not for me.

Fueguia 1833
Jorge Luis Borges and Friends - Otro Poema de los Dones |

So gorgeous, not sure I’ll find words to describe it. Unbelievable that three mere woods could smell this fantastic. Buddhawood, oud, cedar — the forest primeval, before all the the saws came, before Paul Bunyan and his axe, before civilization cleared the ancient virgin living timber, so thick only a ray or two of sunlight penetrated the canopy above. It must have smelled like this—deeply alive, mesmerizing, comforting. The scent improves on skin and becomes even more intriguing as the cedar mellows. Recently I thought Serge Lutens’ Chêne was the best woody perfume I’d ever smelled. Not so. It’s a different genre, given it’s non-wood notes. THIS is the best woody perfume I’ve smelled. One who wears it doesn’t hang out with ordinary mortals, or suffer confinement by steel girders and glass walls.

Standouts for me in this group are: Original Santal, Sir, pour Homme and the amazing Oto Poema de los Dones

To be continued ...
Last edited by ScentFan on 01.07.2016, 15:32; edited 1 time in total

ScentFan
ScentFan
421 Posts
ScentFanScentFan 24.09.2015, 19:32
Houbigant
Duc de Vervins |

Saw it on hubby’s wish list and got it for him (he does the same for me). Personally, I don’t love it because of its strong lavendar note, but that’s just me. This is a bracing, fresh herbal scent which oakmoss does a lot to mellow. Love the bergamot/lemon top and the patchouli/oakmoss base. The middle is a bit loud for me with geranium, rosemary, cumin and nutmeg added to the lavendar. It’s akin to Davidoff’s Cool Water to my nose, but better. Hubby doesn’t wear it much, which is fine with me.
Jacques Bogart
One Man Show (Eau de Toilette) |

This, OTOH, is just spellbinding! If he wore nothing but One Man Show, I’d be just fine…well, assuming I hadn’t smelled the Fueguia 1833. One Man Show is actually a textbook chypre and that profile emerges right away from the bergamot at top and labdanum/cistus base, but its one of those “good chypres” as Luca Turin calls them..”complex as a fragrance can be without losing the plot, and their principal qualities are richness and balance.” That’s One Man Show. Turin says the finest example is Chanel’s Pour Monsieur. Not sure I’ve smelled that or that I need to. One Man Show reeks of well-managed indolic florals in the top, coupled with green basil, galbanum and rosewood. The heart thrums three fabulous other woods and resinous frankincense, nutmeg and cascarilla…looking it up…used in voodoo ceremonies to cleanse and ward off evil. It must simultaneously attract archangels, because this perfume is divine. And it unfolds from the already-fabulous chypre envelope. Can’t believe I found it for nothing at the discounters. Any man wearing this would surely be considered well-bred, well-read and worth getting to know.

Joop!
Joop! Homme (Eau de Toilette) |

Okay, these are my fault. I loved Joop! Femme (a superior woody-oriental) so much in the years I wore it that when I saw these on sale, I just bought them. A mistake, possibly. Joop! Homme is nice, very nice, don’t get me wrong, but for me it’s too sweet for a guy. Yes, the grape-like Heliotrope and swamp-like lily-of-the valley in the heart, the patchouli/sandalwood in the base do rescue it from saccharin sweetness, but this scent just doesn’t activate “guydar" (at least not mine).

"Joop! Homme Wild" |

Definitely more interesting. Pepper, Fougere Accord (coumarin, lavender, geranium, moss, woods), Rum, Blond Tobacco, Woods. Notes aren't very descriptive, but I do like the result better than the previous one. To me it’s more male, clean-shaven, but with a detectable set of abs. It doesn't improve on skin, though, whereas Joop! Homme does.

"Joop! Jump (Eau de Toilette)" |

This says “young guy” to me. Stubble is barely appearing on his chin. The vetiver and the grapefruit, the herbs and lack of woods don’t give enough heft to imply maturity. Again, it’s a pleasant scent, but if hubby never wore it I wouldn’t care.

Juliette Has A Gun
"Vengeance Extrême" |

We both bought this fragrance! Vengeance Extreme is simply one of the better rose ouds out there. Not sure I’ve ever compared to my reigning rose oud, Dior’s Oud Ispahan, though. Here goes. Ah! No comparison. Oud Ispahan is just a swoon-inducing star of clarity and elegance. But Vengeance Extreme with its muskier, ambergris-like base is no slouch. I find it compelling, in fact. Truly genderless, it says gutsy woman and great-smelling guy, too. At least to me. OTOH, he doesn’t wear it a whole lot, so guys maybe take a cue from that. Hmmm OTOOH, I note Oud Ispahan is labelled male/female. Not sure why Vengeance extreme isn’t, too!
The Houbigant improves during the drydown as does Joop! Homme.

To be continued…
Last edited by ScentFan on 01.07.2016, 15:39; edited 2 times in total

ScentFan
ScentFan
421 Posts
ScentFanScentFan 26.09.2015, 18:10
All stars in this group, IMO.

Le Labo
"Oud 27" |

Early in my perfumista journey I went to Saks, I think it was, and was greeted by a Le Labo counter I hadn’t noticed before. My newly-awakened nose immediately detoured to the seats at the fragrance bar. I lingered and smelled them all and, entranced, came away with Oud 27 and Rose 31. I think it was the first oud I’d smelled and it just bowled me over. I had hubby’s name put on the label (well, my pet name for him) and mine on the Rose 31. Two years later and I still think Oud 27 is terrific. So does he. To me it is a triumph of oud and animalics, woods, amber, vetiver and the only floral, rose. Haven’t sorted out aldehydes yet, so can’t comment on their contribution. The magic here is in the blending so that potentially offending notes don’t. Oud 27 allows a nose to enjoy what’s good in all of them, without inducing any ewwwws. Well, if you’re just not into potent scent, I suppose it might be off-putting, but if you want to dive into the animal kingdom and still smell like a gentleman, this oud could be for you.

Maison Francis Kurkdj
Oud Velvet Mood |

To my nose, this says oud, amber and cedar, however I am completely wrong. This is oud with fancy versions of cinnamon, saffron and balsam! Hubby liked it, but didn’t buy because of the price (never mind the fortune he was spending delighting MY nose). Of course I got it for him for his birthday (if our starved bodies are ever found in the woods, surrounded by empty perfume bottles, you’ll know why—just kidding. [I hope]). This oud is a beauty! Subtle spice and exotic resin mimic other familiar scents and the result is seductive, mesmerizing. Worth every outrageous penny, assuming your refrigerator’s already full. It’s among his favorites. Mine, too.

Naomi Goodsir
Bois d'Ascèse |

He wore this to our wedding. How was that possible, a person might wonder, when it was only created in 2012? Here’s the quick and dirty: married 24 years, we decided to divorce, but it didn’t take. So we remarried in 2013 after hanging out on Skype every night for two years like teenagers. I wore vintage L’Heure Blue. He wore this amazing incense perfume by the Australian, Naomi Goodsir. It has a boozy-tobacco top note, a luxurious amber-labdanum heart spiked with cinnamon, and the base is a to-die-for combo of oakmoss, cedar and frankincense (ladies, here pass out unconscious on the floor). The drydown only multiplies the beauty. At first I bought it for myself and rarely wore it because it seemed so male then he smelled it and fell so head-over-heels I had to give it to him. No prob, since I now get to smell it on him. In my sniff-fest of 56 incense perfumes two years ago, it made the mens (to me) finals in the company of the likes of:

Amouage Interlude Man
Armani/Prive Bois d'Encens
Commes des Gardons 2 Man
Commes des Gardons Avignon
Norma Kamali Incense
Robert Piguet Casbah
Slumberhouse Norne
Tom Ford Amber Absolute

Nasomatto
"Duro" |

I started to buy this for him, but he beat me to the punch. Duro is a cedary marvel of oud, spice, resins, leather and woods. It’s a take-no-prisoners-beast. It’s the rider in that childhood poem whose name I can’t remember that used to scare me half to death because he slung nice young girls on his horse and rode them around all night. Terrible! Of course, a grown woman might not mind, especially if she knew the horseman and he was cute. Smelling this, she might even wink as he rode by and if he stopped, climb out the window and hold up her arms to be hoisted onto the horse. Just saying.

Pardon |

A class act. Oud in the base with sandalwood are massively civilized by a food-like middle (chocolate, tonka, cinnamon) and floral top. The result is tremendous. I could sniff it all day. Let other girls ride off on horses, I’m staying home with this guy. Everyone trusts him. He takes me to 3-star Michelin restaurants and the symphony.
Paco Rabanne
Paco Rabanne pour Homme (Eau de Toilette) |

Years before I became a perfumista, I gave this to hubby, having no clue that scent obsession was in our future. I still like it. It’s a fresh, herbal-lavender thing akin to Davidoff’s Cool Water, except here the throbbing amber, oakmoss, honey, musk base is strong and rescues the fragrance. Not having mint helps, too.

To be continued ...
Last edited by ScentFan on 01.07.2016, 15:42; edited 1 time in total

ScentFan
ScentFan
421 Posts
ScentFanScentFan 27.09.2015, 18:04
Just realized that Paco Rabanne pour Homme, Davidoff’s Cool Water, and Houbigant’s Duc de Verin are all Fougères, a genre I haven’t explored—fresh, green fragrances with a distinct note of lavender. Michael Edward’s Fragrance Wheel calls it “the universal fragrance family, with sexy cool-warm notes of citrus and lavender, sweet spices and oriental woods.” Luca Turin says it’s “herbaceious, green, inedible, soapy” with lavender on one end and coumarin on the other. He calls Paco Rabanne pour Homme, “the finest early example” of an Aromatic Fougère. Creed’s Original Santal may loosely fall in this category. I like them both.

Now to the final seven:

Ramón Monegal
Agar Musk |

Neiman’s keeps running out of Agar Musk. When I went back to buy it for hubby after taking a sample home to him, it was gone. The clerks said it happens a lot. So I went online and hunted for it. First of all, I think the entire Monegal line is tremendous. My personal fave is Kiss My Name and I wear it all the time. Agar Musk is hubby’s Monegal drug. The fragrance exceeds its notes: Ambroxan, Leather, Musk, Nutmeg, Oud, Vetiver. Well, maybe it simply presents them right. Imagine these notes in perfection then blended. That’s Agar Musk.

Slumberhouse
Norne |

I tend to write superlatives for Slumberhouse perfumes, think superlatives when I open them and feel superlatives when hubby comes near wearing one. Norne is his favorite. Mine is all of them. If I’d first smelled Norne on a stranger I would have stopped him and asked him what he was wearing—unless he looked like a character on a night coach in a Dickens novel, which he probably would. Then I wouldn’t ask. I’d just follow him a while and try to figure out whether this scent was from earth’s first day or (shudder) its last day. Norne's not ordinary. It doesn’t resemble other scents. Norne was made by a genius and you’d have to be one to wear it—IOW, my kind of guy.

Ted Lapidus
Lapidus pour Homme Black Extreme |

Can’t remember how this one came into the collection. It’s lovely, though, and about as sweet as I want my man to smell. Must say the lemon, black pepper, violet leaf top note is spectacular. Labdanum and tonka seduce from the base, saffon beguiles from the heart, with orange blossom in this truly fabulous-smelling scent.

Versace
Versace L'Homme (Eau de Toilette) |

This fragrance came out 13 years before a madman shot Gianni on his own front steps. It’s a classic 80’s oriental for a guy. To the core oriental accord—bergamot, jasmine, amber, vanilla, musk—Gianni’s perfumer added green notes and lots of lemon, woods and spice then leather, oakmoss, labdanum. Talk about a universal fragrance! Great longevity and sillage, of course. I’m usually not much for a strong lemon note in a fragrance, but this one is a dream.

"Versace Man Eau Fraîche" |

Gianni’s sister Donatella took over after Gianni died and presided over the creation of this aquatic. I saw a youtube review of it and grabbed it for hubby blind. Glad I did. The musky, slightly green freshness is irresistible. Odd notes, too. Starfish. Who would have thunk!

Versace pour Homme (Eau de Toilette) |

A fresh, soapy citrus. The geranium (also hyacinth?) is too strong for me. I’ll pass.
Yves Saint Laurent
La Nuit de L'Homme (Eau de Toilette) |

A mild and pleasant fragrance, sweet with cardamom in the top. Bergamot, lavender and cedar in the heart add beauty and the amber, caraway, vetiver base is interesting, though the caraway does remind me of cabbage. Don’t love or hate it. It’s okay.
CONCLUSION

I beg apologies to Joop! Homme which I have come to respect from a prolonged wear. It’s an interesting and accomplished fragrance. Though sweet, its complexity deserves to be taken seriously.

Also, I searched among my decants and found Chanel’s Pour Monsieur. Luca Turin thinks it’s a fine example of a chypre stretched to the limits, but the notes in our database don’t show the classic chypre accord, which Turin himself in a preceding sentence defined as bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss. Pour Monsieur has only oakmoss, yet Turin calls it a chypre. Personally, I wish he hadn’t because the chypre accord is distinct and exceeds oakmoss alone by a galaxy or two. If you’ve ever smelled Coty de Chypre you know the haunting signature chypre smell, hard to find these days because of the restrictions on oakmoss. One Man Show has it because it has all three components of the accord and otherwise beautifully expands the chypre genre to its limits. That said, 1955 Pour Monsieur is indeed a sophisticated and elegant fragrance, a classic in its own right. It begins with Lemon and Verbena, like male scents had for centuries, adds orange and neroli in the top, puts sweet spice in the heart along with basil then turns the base over to oakmoss, vetiver and cedar. The scent is familiar because so many men have worn it. I have it on my left hand and One Man Show on my right. No question. Pour Monsieur is a wonderful rendition of powerfully simple ideas that would suit most men on the planet who want to smell great, but it’s not a chypre. One Man Show is absolutely a chypre and to my nose exceeds Pour Monsieur by a galaxy. Like all true chypres, it is heady and voluptuous (the labdanum). Pour Monsieur is not. It’s well done, too, mild and refined. Great for business. Sniff and learn. Maybe it’s my next gift to hubby. Nah! Too tame.

Finally, which of hubby’s fragrances do I love the most? If I never smell these again, it would be okay: Coty Musk, Creed Silver Mountain Water, D&G’s The One for Men, Davidoff’s Cool Water, Houbigant’s Duc de Vervins, Joop! Jump and Joop! Homme Wild, Versace pour Homme. The YSL isn’t a favorite, but I don’t hate it either.

The rest are fabulous.
———————

p.s. Turns out the lines I remembered in the Nasomatto Duro review are from a lyric by Noel Coward performed in London in 1924! Not a poem. (I was a girl when I heard it decades later. Long story.) He hung out with Gershwin, wrote Rhapsody in Blue, and hundreds of songs and lyrics for musical theater.) This one’s called “HE NEVER DID THAT TO ME”

Though I find the hero charming,
I prefer the more alarming
Man who plays the villain’s part.
The things he does to nice young girls
Aren’t easy to forget;
He never minces matters,
When he traps them in his net.

He never did that to me;
He never did that to me;

He binds them across his saddle tight,
Regardless of their shrieks of fright,
and carries them upside down all night,
He never did that to me.

(Scary, right? I think London banned it.)
Last edited by ScentFan on 01.07.2016, 15:49; edited 1 time in total

ScentSir
ScentSir
1 Posts
ScentSirScentSir 27.09.2015, 20:59
First, thanks ScentFan-Dahlink. Nicely done!

We are (per usual) very much in sync with our likes/dislikes here.

I used to be able to pick my top five scents but with this bunch its pretty hard to do now.

Oud Velvet Mood is tough to beat. Duro is too.

Norne and Bois d’Ascese are beyond perfect, as is Aqua d Parma.

Love all the Creeds I have and wear them lots.

Sir by D.S. & Durga and the Jorge Luis Borges and Friends - Otro Poema de los Dones are both just incredible and seem to be my current go-to picks.

Oud 27 and Agar Musk are from another planet that I want to live on. Would get on the rocket today.

My old stand-by Paco Rabanne is forever great.

Thanks again ScentFan for this post and thanks for all the scents you have introduced me to.
I will be forever appreciative and smelling good.

ScentSir
(...binding ScentFan across my saddle tight…)

ScentFan
ScentFan
421 Posts
ScentFanScentFan 27.09.2015, 21:20
LOL!!

ScentSir wrote:


ScentSir
(...binding ScentFan across my saddle tight…)

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