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Suggestions for a patchouli-centric fragrance

Suggestions for a patchouli-centric fragrance 9 years ago
I enjoy the smell of patchouli and would like to find a patchouli-centric fragrance. Unfortunately my experience with such fragrances has been that after a couple of hours I feel as though I'm smothered in patchouli oil. Does anyone have a suggestion for, what I'd describe as, a drier, less overwhelming patchouli fragrance? Something that won't wear out its welcome. Oh, and preferably no sandalwood, coconut or heavy musk...
Last edited by Greysolon on 19.01.2015, 17:02; edited 2 times in total
9 years ago
Coromandel is such an obvious choice that I assume you've tried it and it wasn't a hit. Would a rose/patch combo be acceptable? There are lots of beauties in that category if you're not averse to smelling a bit floral.
9 years ago
What about "Coromandel" and "Bornéo 1834"? In my view, both represent a 'dusty' rather than 'oily' kind of patch. For a very light and dry patchouli, I would also suggest Keiko Mecheri's "Patchoulissime" (the name is really a misnomer, the patch here murmurs, not roars). "Nombril Immense" by ELdO is another patchouli-centric scent that I find pretty tame and short-lived, at least on my skin.
9 years ago
Cryptic:
Coromandel is such an obvious choice that I assume you've tried it and it wasn't a hit. Would a rose/patch combo be acceptable? There are lots of beauties in that category if you're not averse to smelling a bit floral.

Thanks, Cryptic! Since you and Epimedes have suggested Coromandel I'll have to raid Lady Grey's sample collection. It's not a fragrance she wears so I have no memory of it. Epimedes, I will certainly look into your suggestions; they seem very promising. Thank you!
9 years ago
I have tested and reviewed "Narcotico" by Meo Fusciuni recently. It is a patchouli-laden fragrance, at least in the top and heart notes. The patchouli is fading a little later on. I think this is good since such a distinctive scent as patchouli can easily get on one's nerves after a while.

It might fit for you and is well worth testing, Greysolon.
9 years ago
Maybe Patchouli by Durance en Provance? It is well balanced.
"Bois Naufragé" by Perfumerie Generale - with deep green shades.
Private Collection: L'Eau Guerriere by Perfumerie Generale - patchouli + cloves, very spicy.
Surprisingly L'orpheline (does not contain patchouli), a real goth fragrance, cool.
"Japon Noir" by Tom Ford - perfect blue/earthy.

But if you really like the earthyness of patchouli, but do not like the... nasty side of it, I would suggest to try fragrances, where tonka bean is strong, or other notes remindful of tonka bean. Maybe "Dhajala" by Xerjoff?
9 years ago
My favourite patchouli is "Patchouly Noir - Osmo / Patchouli Noir - Osmo": There's enough patchouli to enjoy the earthy patchouli smell. But there's almost equally as much amber, which balances the fragrance. It never turns into a patchouli bomb.

I'm assuming you're not interested in "Givenchy Gentleman", "M7 Oud Absolu" or "Héritage (Eau de Toilette)"

Good luck!
9 years ago
This may be too dense, but have you tried Luten's "Borneo 1834"? The cocoa note might keep your interest longer.
9 years ago
"Borneo 1834" is one of the few Serge Lutens' perfumes I haven't tried. Since several of you recommended it I have a sample on order. Descriptions of it its dry quality seem similar to "Ambre Sultan", which I frequently wear.

"Coromandel" is beautiful and it too reminds me of Ambre Sultan. The dry patchouli base in both perfumes share qualities of scent, texture and incredibly tenacious longevity. I never realized patchouli was so dominant in Ambre Sultan. How did I miss that? Hmm, maybe I've had my patchouli fragrance all along?

"Patchouly Noir - Osmo / Patchouli Noir - Osmo" sounds like a another promising candidate and I'm looking forward to the arrival of that sample. By the way, why the repetition of the name of this perfume in Parfumo's index?

Thanks for the suggestions so far. Oh, and Cryptic, no worries about floral notes. Love 'em! I'm just trying to avoid the creamy, oily combinations that tend to come about when patchouli gets paired with notes like heavy musks, coconut and sandalwood.
9 years ago
Grey, read CG's review of "Hippie Rose" It's well-behaved without being staid.
9 years ago
Ah, I see that Greysolon has already reviewed L'Artisan 'Voleur de Roses" which was also on my mind. Ironically, the tenacity of the patchouli over the rose was part of the critique of this as a rose scent.
9 years ago
Oddly enough, I would suggest "Fancy Nights" , which is one of the drier, less in-your-face patchouli's I've come across. Forget about Jessica Simpson, and just look at that understated, genderless green bottle.

Oops, wait, there's sandalwood in the base. I bet it will be difficult to find something patchouli-centric without at least a little sandalwood in it.
9 years ago
Well, "Borneo 1834" turned out to be a hit. I especially enjoyed the incredibly looooooooong development. The patchouli is dry and stays as restrained as patchouli can be while remaining the dominant note. I'll take a bottle, please! I also enjoyed "Coromandel" too though, for my tastes, it requires a judicious finger on the trigger to keep its place. Nonetheless, I find it beautiful and wearable.

Unfortunately, Triffid is right about my bad experience with "Voleurs de Roses"... ick... but I won't let that keep me from giving other rose and patchouli perfumes a try.

Dulce is right to say that excluding sandalwood makes finding a patchouli fragrance difficult because the two are often paired. My sandalwood issues are simply a personal preference. When it's well blended and balanced to the overall fragrance, great, no problem. But if it's a particularly sharp variety of sandalwood and it asserts its dominance by sticking its pointy little head above the rest of the fragrance then it can become overwhelming.
Excluding heavy musks is problematic too because, like sandalwood, musk and patchouli are a traditional pairing. Unfortunately, my issue with heavy musks is more serious; they often make me physically ill. But it's not the smell. Like patchouli, I love the smell of musk on others and it doesn't bother me. However, if I use a perfume containing heavy musk on my own skin the physical reaction can be really unpleasant. This leads me to believe there is an issue with transdermal absorption. I don't think I've ever had a problem with clean/white musks.
Thanks for all the information and suggestions.
Last edited by Greysolon on 05.02.2015, 12:47; edited 1 time in total
9 years ago
Thanks for reporting back Greysolon. It's always good to have feedback, even better when there's a few winners amongst the suggestions.
9 years ago
Just a few days ago I received a decant of a little known patchouli perfume from one of my favorite houses, Diptyque.
"L'Autre" is one of their earliest creations (1973) although it's only available as a boutique exclusive. I've worn L'Autre just once and it was disappointing. Certainly not worth the price of airfare to Paris. The big problem is that the patchouli in L'Autre has a strong, rough camphorous component. That seems to match descriptions I've read of patchouli leaves rather than the unctuous fluidity of the essential oil found in most perfumes. Has anyone else tried L'Autre and, if so, am I missing something?
9 years ago
Hi GreySolon,

Just curious, have you been able to test the Patchouly Noir by IL Profvmo that I recommended? I'd like to hear your thoughts about it.
9 years ago
One of my favourite patch scents is "Vengeance Extreme" by Juliette has a gun.
If you also like roses and leather then this one might be of interest for your search.

Or "Fashion Decree" by Atkinsons. Lots of patchouli, also with roses but a bit more feminine.

Both medium-sweet and definitely unisex (despite what their name might suggest).
Atypical Patchouli Scents 9 years ago
1. L'Artisan's "Patchouli Patch"
2. Tom Ford's "White Patchouli"
3. Estee Lauder's "Youth Dew"
4. I Profumi di Firenze's "Patchouly Rosso"
5. Bond No. 9's "Nuits de Noho"
6. Bruno Acampora's "Nero"

These are some that I have tried and come to mind immediately as worth trying. Also, for a floral Patchouli, there is always Viktor & Rolf's Flowerbomb, which has a healthy dose in there.
9 years ago
PontNeuf, I've never tried a Juliette Has A Gun fragrance so "Vengeance Extreme" might be interesting. Leather and patchouli, hmm...

Sleuth and Flavorite, the Italian houses always interest me so I Profumi di Firenze's "Patchouly Rosso" and "Patchouly Noir - Osmo / Patchouli Noir - Osmo" will get a look-see.
9 years ago
Neither a dry rendition of patchouli nor devoid of Sandalwood but .. you might enjoy "Patchouli Intense / Patchouli Homme" nonetheless - I adore it. Distinct and sophisticated, as can be expected from Mme de Nicolaï; it is no 'perfume boa constrictor'
9 years ago
Just curious, Greysolon, if you've ever tried wearing "White Patchouli"?
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