Whose Oud is missing?

There are still(! ) a few houses, that haven't released an Oud-scent yet. Recently I read, that Francis Kurkdjian is about to release one as well and I asked myself: why is there no Oud-fragrance by Andy Tauer? Shouldn't that be a perfect match?

So: who do you think should finally come out with an Oud-fragrance, whose Oud are you waiting for?

To be honest, I am disappointed by many of the recent Oud perfume issues by western brands. We have Montale and Micallef, and they have years of experience with that note, but I do not miss any quickly developed fragrances by other brands.

I like Ouds that try to make the classic Arabian Rose/Oud combo more wearable, like Arabian Diamond by Micallef or Dark Rose by Czech & Speake, but things become strange when western perfumers want to show their creativity and artistry with Oud.

I especially do not like the By Kilian Ouds or the attempts by Pierre Guillaume.

I doubt that we will get any better Oud perfumes than those that we already have in the near future.

Isn't oud a metaphor in perfumery--rather like amber?

I'm serious. We talk about these notes as though they were monolithic, but really they are impressions created by the combination of many different components, are they not?

Hm, I think, in this case "oud" stands for the recent oud hype. Brands that release an oud perfume do not just sell a perfume that by chance incorporates a certain note, they sell a certain image. Personally, I do not need that 1001 Nights romanticism. Oud being just a note like anything else maybe can only be found at the Arab brands at the moment.

Hype is right: Apicius! I have tested so many so-called oud perfumes nearly devoid of anything identifiable as oud--or even incense! It's become a sort of marketing garnish, it seems...

A good example of an unidentifiable oud fragrance would be Royal Oud by Creed. Talk about a completely different take on oud. Royal Oud doesn't even smell like a western oud interpretation.

Yes, I´m tired of looking for oud as an identifiable note, too, when there simply is none and what you get instead is a dry, woody patchouli-fragrance, for example. Byredo, Jo Malone...

So let's narrow it down to who should release such a fragrance with an identifiable oud-note, ok?

What would an oud-fragrance by Etat Libre d'Orange smell like? Hmmmm...

I own Oud Immortel by Byredo and find that oud isn't the first thing I notice in this fragrance but the immortel is. Another example of a slightly oudless oud.

Serge Lutens hasn't released on yet.

Ha!
I just reviewed Amber Oud by Kilian, and it is an oudless oud. Sherapop kindly pointed me to the forums, where I found this thread.

I say for a good oud, stick to Montale. They do it right.

I wore Amber Oud by Kilian just the other day. Totally forgettable and oudless.

And I hope he doesn't.

The first oudless oud perfume I ever tried was

Henri Bendel "Rose & Oud"

it should really be called "Strawberry & Rose"!

a fruity-fruity-floral perfume!

I would love to have one by Guerlain.
And one by Serge Lutens.

I think it's fine when Western houses delve into the magic that Oud represents ... their rate of success is quite hit or miss, but as a 'note du jour' Oud has become marketable.
I have to say that I prefer my Ouds from more authentic sources, but what really confuses me is that quite a few houses have produced Ouds that are aimed solely at the Middle Eastern market.
Lauder and del Pozo are guilty of this. I don't understand the logic behind placing an Oud fragrance in this market (and denying it to the rest of us) when that market is already saturated with Oud frags. I see that Lauder's Wood Mystique (probably their best release of the last 10 years) is now available in high end department stores here in South Africa, and I have it on good authority (one of my friends is a brand manager) that the Sales assistants demanded to be able to sell it, when it was initially touted for release in the Gulf states only. This is gratifying ... altho' their Aramis release Perfume Calligraphy has now replaced it in the 'Middle East only' scenario ... and it's a relatively good Oud - I tried it at Dubai International a few weeks ago.
I also recently bought a bottle of Oud et Rose by S.T Dupont in Saudi Arabia ... it's really gorgeous but once again only available in the Gulf. How can a fragrance survive the competition when it's audience is limited to a populace already over familiar with it's star note? Doesn't make any sense!
For me it's not so much about 'who's Oud is missing', but about 'who's well done Oud is available' ...

Coutureguru, maybe those brands focus on the middle east with their oud issues because there, oud perfumes are a matter of tradition, not a trend. I suppose they expect good sales inArab countries now that everyone can make oud perfumes, not just Arab brands.

BTW, for Jesus del Pozo's Arabian Nights, there is also a distributive channel in Germany, we met the sales accountant at the last perfume fair.

Apparently, Uncle Serge has been working with oud for a while, but hasn't released anything because he is afraid of the material being banned by the IFRA. He talks about it here:

www.fragrantica.com/news/Serge-Lutens-Intervie w-Answers--2728.html

I don't believe a word!

They are all talking about working on oud scents pretending they use the wood, but in the end they come out with something from Givaudan or Firmenich! And this is IFRA-safe because these companies are the IFRA!

That's true, but there is something I don't understand. If the IFRA is subject to manipulation by Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, etc., why can't it also be manipulated by Chanel, LVMH, Dior, or anyone who has money to throw around, for that matter? Reformulations have got to be costly to the fragrance houses, so why are they sitting on their a$$es and letting this happen? I am willing to believe that the IFRA is on the take from the aromachemical companies, but I fail to understand why the perfumers haven't banded together and responded in kind.

I do not like Bond No. 9's New York Oud! Firstly, the name is already wrong, what has Oud to do with New York! Total mis-match! Secondly, the note is not right. I love oud, and got some very high quality oud perfumes from Dubai in the past. They are gorgiously rich and sensuel. It is not something can be cheaply copied!

I genuinely love that perfume, but for me it's a rose saffron! Honestly, when I wear it I find myself marveling at how beautiful I smell.

A chacun son goût!

I'm trying to think what major house doesn't have an "oud" yet. As of now, all that comes to mind is Chanel and Hermès.
What is your prediction, are we to expect an oud fragrance from these two eventually?

In fact, there are so many oud scents now that I wonder : Is there any Oud missing at all ?

Even The Body Shop has launched one...go figure.

Recently I picked up "Les Notes de Lanvin - Oud & Rose" locally. I have absolutely no idea what "oud" is supposed to smell like, other than what I have read, nor have I ever owned an perfume with oud as a note listed.
I have been hesitant to purchase any, since there are varying opinions, costs, etc., and not knowing if I would like it. But when I saw this one sitting on the shelf at (dare I say it?) my local Marshall's for a ridiculous price I bought it.
What I get from it is a sense of being in a garage, an oil feel, as if I'm standing next to a mechanic who's been working all day under cars.
I feel as if I should wear this hanging out with my biker friends. It's not overpowering, it's well-blended.
Since this the posters here seem to significantly know of "oud" scents, has anyone else smelled this particular one? And is this what "oud" smells like?