Foren-Übersicht Perfumes by Note, Accord, Genre Oud ~ in search of the real deal
25 Posts
QuercusAlbusQuercusAlbus Oud ~ in search of the real deal 12.03.2018, 22:55
I have written a couple of reviews recently in which I have been scathing of the mythology accredited to oud. I think this mythology is becoming perilous, in that there is a regular traffic of claims & counter-claims as to what contains real oud & what doesn't, & the virtues of real oud relative to the synthetic. I have been brought to a state of vexation by this; and rather than burst forth sarcastically in a review, perhaps I can attain unto some kind of assuagement in this place.

I have recently learned that Tom Ford's Oud Wood (Eau de Parfum) contains synthetic oud, and also that Kilian's oudy 'fumes do so. In a department store recently I broached the matter of the provenance of oud to one of the apothecaries on duty, and was told very authoritatively that a certain 'fume she would show me presently does ^very certainly^ contain real oud, only to learn from the data-sheet, that she herself showed me (!), that it is in fact synthetic oud that this 'fume contains. (However, I will ^not^ stoop to despising retail staff, unless they make a deliberate concerted attempt to deceive me; & this instance was merely one of being somewhat careless in reading the data-sheet.) The 'fume was Mizensir's Perfect Oud.

It is clear that it is becoming immensely difficult to find definitive expositions à la oud. This is only to be expected given the crisis that the traffic in oud is in, and the extreme preciosity of this substance. It is fortunate that I am not distraught by the knowledge of the syntheticity of the 'oud' in 'fumes that I possess - see my review of Collection Extraordinaire - Precious Oud by Van Cleef & Arpels in which I set out my philosophy at the matter.

So, I would greatly enjoy a ^very^ frank discussion of the matter, in which I would urge such participants as there might be to set aside to the maximum possible any such wishful thinking as wherewithal they might be beset concerning perfumes that they possess or are very fond of.

An interesting source of teaching bearing upon all this is the ~Ensar Oud~ website: it does have, to my mind anyway, a solid ring of honesty about it; ^but^! it ^is^ a selling site, which is, I think, to be kept forwardly in mind.

Specific 'fumes about which I would be particularly glad to have some kind of assurance (or mis-surance, if so it must be!) about are the Xerjoff ~Oud Stars~ 'fumes, Ropion@Malle's The Night, Laurent Mazzone's Hard Leather, the various oudy 'fumes by Boadicea the Victorious, Terry de Gunzburg's Terryfic Oud line, & the Bond Nº9 oudy 'fumes. All these are quite to really-quite high end, & at least the higher-end ones really ought, to my mind, to contain real oud.

Also, I found it fascinating to read, on the aforementioned ~Ensar Oud~ website, how a high grade oud is traceable to a particular known piece of infected agarwood; and how the very highest grades of infected wood are so replete with the oil that they actually sink in water! whence 'sinking-grade'. It would explain (I hope!) how it is that Thameen brought out strictly 100 bottles only, ever, of their Palace Oud, which retailed for £2750 per 30ml bottle. This traceability to a particular piece is also true of the higher grades of ambergris, so I have read.

4 Posts
XanthonXanthon Oud - the mystery and the love 07.11.2018, 03:00
Yes, most fragrances out there have synthetic Oud. Real Oud is rare and very expensive - one of the best Ouds are from Assam(India), Cambodia, Indonesia and Thailand. Nonetheless, there are houses which make perfumes with real Oud in it, mostly middle eastern though. House of Rasasi has some good offerings, so has Ajmal and also niche house like Abdul Karim Al Faransi.

Ones to try (cheap option 30-40 US dollars for 6 ml oil - Oud blends).
Al Faransi - Sheikh Al Faransi (hidden gem), Oud al Amir (sweet), Oud Hindi (bit skanky but gets softer after wearing).
Ones to try (bit expensive, 50 ml EDP for 130 US dollars)
Rasasi Boruzz series - Rooh Al Assam Oudh, Rooh Al Cambodi
Ones to try (bit expensive, 3 ml oil for 65 US dollars)
Ajmal - Dahnal Oud Sukraya, Dahnal Oud Alhan


321 Posts
FluxitFluxit 08.11.2018, 08:43
The brand top2base has my trust here. On their website you find various Ouds, both in perfume and pure in ethyl alcohol solutions. I've tried some, including the Cambodian Oud in 12% concentration. Very aromatic, I'm a fan. But also quite intense, some parfumo members found it overwhelming when I brought it to a meeting. Which is fair enough, as it wasn't blended into a perfume fragrance, but I like that it still comes with a surprisingly broad profile.

The owner also is very friendly. We one ordered to share a bottle and she even included pipettes & co to facilitate the distribution.

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