WildGardener 15 days ago
The smell of the Three Little Pigs - and the Big Bad Wolf...
An olfactory exhibition is currently running in Norway. Based on the story the Three Little Pigs, children follow a trail through the exhibition where scent boxes are used to illustrate different parts of the narrative. It begins with a mini pig farm, where the first box holds the realistic smell of pigs, pee, mud, and poop. The children,... More
WildGardener 2 months ago
Chemically Encr¥pT3d Perfume
Victoria's Secret would seem to be unlikely market leaders but their new perfume Bare is just that. It's the first perfume to contain Cryptosym, a transparent odourless base that protects a perfume from being copied by chemically encrypting its formula. New perfumes are routinely subjected to chemical analysis by a process known as gcms: gas chromatography - mass spectrometry.... More
WildGardener 3 months ago
Your nose knows
30% of your DNA is actually made for your sense of taste and your sense of smell; like 30% of your whole existence goes towards your taste and your smell - sense, that's a really good indication that it's a good idea to trust your nose; your nose knows.You don't wanna eat rotten Bunya nuts...David Trood - The Weedy Garden : YouTube More
WildGardener 4 months ago
Is this the New Lutens?
Since Michael Edwards stopped using the word Oriental, the ideology that appeared to motivate Serge Lutens has fallen out of favour in some parts of the world of perfumery. This driving force, which led him to use names like Ambre Sultan, Cuir Mauresque and Muscs Kublai Khan, seems to have been replaced by a kind of olfactory agnosticism, which serves to distance the house from... More
WildGardener 5 months ago
In France, the first of May is a national holiday and people mark the start of summer by giving sprigs of Lily of the Valley, which are said to bring luck for the year ahead. Feeling rather ambiguous about cut flowers, I love the citrusy-(rosy) smell of the little white bells but don’t like the idea of them being cut down in their prime to give us a day or two of passing pleasure. Also,... More
WildGardener 8 months ago
If you think about patchouli perfume, what do you think of? Angel? with her chocolate patchouli, red fruits and candy floss? A classic patchouli / amber like Reminiscence? How about Eau Sauvage? There are many styles that use patchouli and they come in all shades and textures - from deep and dark to light and pale. A lot of patchouli in a formula can make it so distinctive the perfume... More
WildGardener 9 months ago
The Rub of the Green
Smelling a certain Green perfume has reminded me of Jean-Claude Ellena’s novel, La Note Verte. It’s the story of how Claude Nael, long time contractor to a famous perfume house has had his new perfume rejected. Instead of going with Nael’s proposal, the new CEO has a young freelancer run up a close copy based on chemical analysis of the original. The problem for Maison... More
WildGardener 10 months ago
We're gonna make you a Star
I was was watching a video of two Indie perfumers last night, and one said to the other 'if somebody says X and Y notes don't go together, I'm the type who has to try it out to see if it's true'. So I guess if somebody said aquatics, watermelon, honey and mimosa don't go with the patchouli-choco gourmand of Angel, he might've created (something like) Eau de Star, just to see if it's... More
WildGardener 11 months ago
Why did Cinnabar fail to beat Opium?
Cinnabar was released a year after Opium (1977) and for this reason the two have been compared, but even though they are both ambers, Cinnabar is less like Opium and more akin to an older perfume, Youth-Dew. Cinnabar was composed by Joséphine Catapano (with the help of Bernard Chant) and it’s basically a slimmed down version of Youth-Dew - her big hit from 1953.... More
Oh dear, that's very safe
Bois de jasmin recently blogged about new flavour and fragrance trends that she found somewhere. She said that green tea, peach and citrus are likely to be the most popular notes in the seasons to come. But where did this information come from? Was it mere guesswork to say that popular - and safe - notes are going to be popular for some time to come? - You don’t need a crystal... More
Michael Edwards renounces Oriental
Many perfumista’s will be aware of the debate surrounding Oriental, the name of the genre that contains Shalimar and Opium. According to Bois de Jasmin, Michael Edwards will no longer use it in Fragrances of the World. He said that from now on the name will be Amber, and he proposes three categories: Soft Amber, Floral Amber and Woody Amber. In the light of his decision,... More
Why don't scent supermarkets stink?
Something bizarre happened in a scent supermarket the other day. I was in there checking something out when two guys came in and one of them started spraying himself liberally with Bleu de Chanel. Ok, nothing strange about that, but then he grabbed Sauvage and gave himself a dozen more sprays with that. Having seen the horror unfolding, I moved away to a safe distance.... More