...Excerpt from Grain de musc: Europe and fragrance allergens: don't panic, it's not as bad as we thought!What’s happening now?IDEA (International Dialogue for the Evaluation of Allergens), a work group of stakeholders including scientists from different fields (dermatologists, toxicologists, immunologists, computational modelers, etc.), has been put together at IFRA’s initiative to determine more robust methodologies to assess the risks of fragrance ingredients, based on real-life exposure, not only for allergies but for genotoxicity, reprotoxicity, etc. This approach will be valid not only in Europe, but worldwide.Will authorized concentrations be one-size-fits-all?No, the SCCS proposal is off the agenda. Each ingredient on the “hit list” will be analyzed according to the methodology determined by IDEA. Some materials might even have higher authorized concentrations than previously. At this stage it is the methodology that is under discussion: it is impossible to evaluate how long it will take to get results.How will these concentrations be determined?While the SCCS opinion paper proposed limiting concentrations based on whether they elicited allergic reactions in people who are already allergic, the methodology all stakeholders have agreed on developing will be based on the level required for inducing allergies in people who were not allergic previously. In the first, worst-case-scenario, many fragrance materials would have indeed been so restricted that it would have been useless to even make perfume. In the second, accepted scenario, concentrations can be higher.~~~~~~~~~~~~So, if the SCCS's recommendation are indeed off the table and the new approach to risk assessment is according to IDEA, then this amendment might actually be an improvement to the status quo, at least in some areas. How likely is that, I wonder.

...Sure, Sleuth. Lyral, also leerall, is reminiscent of lily of the valley but also features notes such as cyclamen, linden blossom or lily. Because of its extraordinary tenacity and diffusivity, it is a powerful blending agent giving richness throughout all dryout phases of a perfume composition - there is nothing like it. Although used abundantly in perfumery, its role as a potential allergenic constituent was unknown before 1995. Its usage in perfume was subsequently restricted by the IFRA.Some examples for perfumes with Lyral as key element (prior to reformulation):"Pour Femme" by Lacoste "Classique" by Gaultier "Noa" by Cacharel "Le Mâle" by Gaultier "Nightflight" by Joop "Jaïpur" by Boucheron "Background" by Jil Sander "Poison" by Dior and all its flankers "Boudoir" by Vivienne Westwood "Rush" by Gucci "Freedom for Her" by Hilfiger "Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme" by Dolce & Gabbana "Coco" by Chanel "Le Bain" by Joop"Aventus" by Creed

...Dear all,We intent to participate in the Commission's public consultation on fragrance allergens because none of us can be sure that the SCCS's recommendation to drastically restrict many fundamental ingredients, is off the table once and for all. As it stands, the proposal can remain as it is, or be changed in either direction. Furthermore, we not only want to oppose the ban on oakmoss and lyral but also to make the consumer's voice heard.We will have to rework the petition content, which was already finalised but addressed an amendment based 1:1 on the SCCS's opinion and not the recent proposal. The petition is supposed to flank our evaluation, which we are going to submit to the Commission and will hopefully serve to lend weights to our submission. We hope to be ready to go public with petition and letter template by mid March. "Never let go of a good thing without a fight."~ Jarod Kintz

...Beautiful, Cryptic.

...The more I think about it, the more it seems a pretty clever move to let everyone believe they'd restrict all these fundamental substances and natural extracts. And now, after announcing they probably won't, I can't help it but think I have been tricked into feeling relieved, almost rejoicing at the Commission's moderation to "only" ban oakmoss and lyral?! :shock:The work stream is going to have a close look at the amendment in order to fully comprehend its implications for perfumery.

...Good news (relative to the concerns previously justified on basis of the recommendations made by the Commission's advisory body)! The European Commission propose that:- The three substances which were found to be unsafe should be banned from cosmetic products,- Additional allergens should be subject to the obligation of individual labelling on the package of a cosmetic product. In other words, they have to be mentioned in the list of ingredients, in addition to the words 'parfum' or 'aroma'. Excerpt from the Press Memo of the European Commission, February 13, 2014Translation for ordinary mortals such as I:To be banned:- Chloroatranol and atranol, the main allergenic constituents of Evernia prunastri (oakmoss) and Evernia furfuracea (treemoss).- HICC / Lyral, a waxy floral fruity accord with excellent diffusivity that gives good body. Lyral features notes such as lily of the valley, cyclamen and linden blossom.To be indicated in the list of ingredients when their concentration exceeds the homoeopathic dosage of 0.001% in leave-on products:- Cinnamal, the organic compound that gives cinnamon its odour- Cinnamyl Alcohol, found in esterified form in cinnamon leaves, Peru balsam and storax- Citral, present in the oils of several plants, incl. many citruses such as petitgrain, lime, lemon and orange- Coumarin, found naturally in many plants, notably in high concentration in the tonka bean- Eugenol, naturally occurring fragrance compound found in clove oil, nutmeg, cinnamon and bay leaf- Farnesol, present in many essential oils, e.g. citronella, neroli, cyclamen, lemon grass, tuberose, rose and tolu- Geraniol, the primary part of rose oil, palmarosa oil, geranium oil, lavender oil, jasmine oil and citronella oil- HICC / Lyral when occurring naturally- Hydroxycitronellal, occurs naturally, e.g. in lavender- Isoeugenol, occurs in the essential oils of plants such as nutmeg and ylang-ylang- Limonene, the rind of the lemon, like other citrus fruits, contains considerable amounts of this compound- Linalool, over 200 species of plants produce it, mainly mints, scented herbs, laurels, cinnamon, rosewood and citrus fruits, but also birch treesThe EU Commission acknowledged that further scientific work is needed to define safe concentration limits of chemicals of special concern, i.e. for the twelve above and another eight natural extracts.If the proposal is not opposed, the formal adoption of those changes is expected to take place by the end of this year/early 2015.

...I feel ill just by looking at this sugar-overdose ..

..... but goldie. :)

...That one is terrific, Dulce.

...:lol: :lol: :lol: The Puritan Valentine's Day cards are too funny.

...Hi all,Richard Lüscher Britos would love to learn what we have to say about their fragrances. They kindly offered a few sets of their samples to the community for a sample pass around - what fun! :D No strings attached and of course our honest critique is asked for and appreciated. If you'd like to join in, are prepared to ship to the next in line (possibly overseas) and happy to write a review on some of their fragrances (as many as you like, but one or two would be nice), just fill in your name in the list below.I suggest that, given enough peeps get together, each group figures out the order in which to dispatch and how to deal with shipping costs themselves, if that's OK for everyone. Each sample contains about 2ml, so I'd assume a set lasts for about two of us for testing purpose.AmericasGreysolonAromiEroticijtdPBullFriendSystemeDEuropeMiaVonTrostYsbrandTarFully booked. Sorry!

...Great food for thought, Triffid! I am sure I can safely claim none of us has any intention to fight consumer protection where it is indeed necessary. We merely intend to oppose protection based on restrictions and prohibitions when it comes to fragrance allergens in perfumes, given, of course, they aren't lethal. We believe information is sufficiently suited for anyone with contact allergies to prevent any such reaction by avoidance behaviour.

...Cryptic:.. maybe we should be targeting some of the larger perfume houses in addition to the European Parliament. It concerns me that we've heard very little in the way of complaint from the industry (other than a few brave niche/indie perfumers) regarding the proposed EU legislation, when one would expect them to be apoplectic over it. Perhaps a petition with numerous signatures might galvanize a Chanel or a Guerlain to get involved?The Subway example is a fabulous demonstration of consumer power. However, I wonder if it is suited as reference in our case. The dough conditioner Subway used in the US was legal but not favoured by consumers. To demand that a company ought to publicly oppose legislation that restricts certain ingredients with reference to consumer protection, is a different matter. The likes of Chanel and Guerlain are already involved. IDEA Workshop Participants About IDEA: "The recommendations made in" the SCCS's "Opinion was eye-opening for the industry which became even more aware of the communication gap existing between all parties and, as a consequence, the knowledge gap of all on fragrance allergens and, more specifically, on the methods to characterize them, assess them and diagnose them. (...) The intent of this initiative was strategic: a consumer adequately protected and safely enjoying fragrance products is the best way for the industry to secure its business and preserve its competitiveness. (...) IDEA consists of a series of two to three-day workshops bringing leading international scientists together to reach consensus on improving existing methodologies." Wouldn't you agree that there may be more than one way to skin a cat? Cryptic:.. my confidence in their endeavors is somewhat limited based upon their unsuccessful track record. This is not the first wave of allergen restrictions nor will it be the last. IMHO, it's time to employ some different tactics unless we are willing to accept further reformulations and discontinuations. (...) I don't think there's any denying that a petition with an attendant threat to boycott can produce results.IDEA is a rather new approach. There is yet no track record to refer to in order to assess success. I am, however, sure a threat to boycott can produce results. But I am pretty certain that any potential there may be for fragrance companies to side with consumers in this matter, would be smashed to pieces if we were to target them in such a way – that would do us no service, would it?

...Dalmajen:I would have to find out just which perfumes of mine actually fall under these regulations. I hope Tauer fragrances aren't included in this.I am sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but Tauer fragrances will be affected. Don't shot the messenger. If you prefer your perfumes to include more than a mere trace of rose or jasmine, geranium, cinnamon, coumarin, citruses ... you'd better be prepared to say farewell. :cry: I compiled a list of ingredients that are to be restricted or banned. You can find it here.

...:lol: :lol: :lol:

...Sherapop:Here's a link to my manifesto on this topic: PEOPLE WITH ALLERGIES DO NOT WEAR PERFUMEMost likely they know better. The EU's argument is, however, not only the 1-3 % of overall population that actually react allergically need to be protected but also any others that might develop an allergic reaction. Apparently consumers can not be trusted with self-determined actions. :evil:

...Vmarshmellow:.. the chemical replacements being required by the IFRA for the allergins being replaced.The companies that are members of IFRA do not want to replace naturals with "chemicals". In fact, they have all heavily invested in natural-ingredients companies, establishing sustainable sources, etc. And naturals are essential in fine fragrance if only for PR purposes. Of course, fine fragrance is a very small part of the big labs' income.Vmarshmellow:I think some of us are going to be really upset in 20 or 30 years when we find out that some of these chemicals are less healthy than the natural substances they are replacing. What if "irritants" are being replaced with (as yet unknown) carcinogens? What if long term absorption of these chemicals through the skin ends up increasing your odds of getting Alzheimer's? Or Arthritis? or Parkinson's? Think of how many drugs have had to be recalled over the years because it turns out they had unknown side effects or were just plain dangerous. They were all "tested" before being released. By drug companies that sponsored their testing.This scenario is not unlikely, I'd assume, simply because of lack of knowledge. However, if we were to put this forward as an argument for reasonable doubt, we'd have to substantiate it. And that is the crux because there are no data on future events. And falsifying research findings you are talking big money for an uncertain outcome ..

...Just a stunning shot.

...Hayven:.. I really liked the Popeye-type commercial just because of how silly it is.Yes, some of the Old Spice clips are hilariously funny. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLTIowBF0kEhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3R2cnxz27LI

..."The Scent of Seduction, With a Hint of Flame-Grilled Meat"?! :shock:If ever in need of a visual turn off, I now know where I can find one. Thanks for sharing, Sweetgrass!The Dior ad, though, I do like too.