...LOL! Yes, stunning. I'd apologize if I didn't think having a new beautiful fragrance is the best thing ever. Pipette:It is because of your Sniff-Fest, dear ScentFan, that I got myself a roll-on of "En Avion" by CARON. Stunning. A true CARON scent.

...Ordered in a bunch of samples, which arrived today. Here are the new ones.LE TEMPS D'UNE FETEOpoponax, Galbanum, Hyacinth, Narcissus, Patchouli, Sandalwood, OakmossHad to try it because of the notes, but this doesn’t work for me. It smells like decaying flowers. Not sure whether it’s the Hyacinth of the Narcissus.MAHARANI INTENSEOrange, Galbanum, Rose, Pelargonium, Carnation. Patchouli, Vanilla, Sandalwood, LabdanumI expected this is lovely. It almost is. This is a perfumer who takes risks, that’s for sure. Leaving it on for a while before I decide. Later: for me, something doesn’t work here. Maybe the Perlargonium is overdone.NUMBER ONE INTENSEGalbanum, Black currant, Tagetes, Cassia, Jasmine, Orange blossom, Rose, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Ambergris, Oakmoss, SandalwoodGood grief! Gorgeous. Just gorgeous. Hard to believe what I’m smelling. Every note contributes and the whole is amazing! FB immediately. It’s modern and traditionally luxurious at the same time.VANILLE INTENSEOrange blossom, Cinnamon, Vanilla absolute, Immortelle, Patchouli, Amber, MuskToo much vanilla for me. Smells like a dreamsicle.VIOLET IN LOVERaspberry, Coriander, Pink pepper, Black currant, Lemon, Floral notes, Black pepper, Turkish rose, Violet, MuskBeautiful violet. The fruit and spice make it magical. Violet’s not one of my favorites, but if it were, I’d buy this.WEEK-ENDItalian bergamot, petit grain, galbanum, lily of the valley, rose, mimosa, pepper, pink pepper, clove, oakmoss absolute and styrax balm.Not sure which this is in our database. The notes are from lucky scent, the source of my sample. What an unusual fragrance, though. It’s certainly fresh, green and floral like the lucky scent info says. It’s not for me, but it’s well done.What I’m left with is an impression of genius at work. What a bold, creative perfumer Patricia NicolaÏ is. I plan to test her entire line and anything new she produces.

...I owe Missk a thanks, too. I did a blind buy of La Prairie's Life Threads Platinum based on her review. It just came and it's divine.

...Nuit de Tubereuse is on my wish list. Haven't tried the rest.Tnahowru:"Nuit de Tubereuse" by L'Artisan Parfumeur"Bijou Romantique" by ELDO"Essence" by Narciso Rodriguez"Relique d'Amour (2012)" by Oriza L. Legrand"Rêve d'Ossian" by Oriza L. Legrand"Hippie Rose" by Heeley :roll: which would you get?

...ScentFan:Awaiting the arrival of La Prairie's Life Threads Platinum, a blind buy based on the recent review. Also awaiting Rochas Femme EdT, not a blind buy though I realize now that what I tested was the EdP.The EdT was awful. Found the '89 EdP which just came, a stanky beauty. They sent the wrong La Prairie Life Threads. Awaiting the replacement.

...Thanks, Pipette and Triffid. I've ordered samples of both. As for First, it's a hybrid, a chyprish-oriental. It has the oriental accord, plus a chypre's (except for labdanum). Hmmm...and since it doesn't have a substitute resin, yes it probably shouldn't be on the chypre list. Thanks. Aldehydes I've yet to wrap my brain around. My first awareness of one was before my perfumista days. I ordered inexpensive scents from an Arab perfumer and to me they all reeked so strongly of formaldehyde I threw them out. Then somewhere I read that perfumes use aldehydes. Looking up a definition led me to Basenotes and on. I plan to make a study of aldehydes one day so I can detect them. Right now my only olfactory references are formaldehyde and Chanel No. 5 which I react to so strongly I have to wash it off each time I try it.

...(pics is from The Perfumed Court)LEARNING CHYPRE - INTRODUCTIONYasmin is anxious to begin this long-delayed sniff fest of 60 chypre perfumes, new and old. However, I inform her I must stop writing about perfumes for a time and return to writing novels.She frowns. "Well, at least list the fragrances in case you are missing any important ones that others could tell you about.I see her point. First, definitions. In the A-Z, Luca Turin defines the chypre accord as, "bergamot-labdanum-oakmoss." He says, "Good chypres are as complex as a fragrance can be without losing the plot." Yasmin points out we've seen the same for the orientals, several of which are on this list. Great ones are complex without losing the basic accord. Turin points out that the genre is called "Mossy Woods" in Michael Edwards' fragrance wheel. Popping over I see he defines the accord as oakmoss, amber and citrus -- not quite the same, but close. For me, a true chypre also has musk. In an effort to compensate for the restrictions, newer chypres often substitute patchouli and vetiver for the oakmoss.Below is the list of chypres I've discovered, or that were suggested to me for this sniff-fest.AmouageFate Woman | Jubilation 25 Woman | Memoir Woman |BalmainMiss Balmain |BenettonColors de Benetton |BijanBijan Women |Calvin KleinObsession |CaronLady Caron | Tabac Blond |CartierPanthère de Cartier |CarvenMa Griffe |Chanel31 rue Cambon | Coco Mademoiselle | Cristalle (Eau de Toilette) | Cuir de Russie |CliniqueAromatics Elixir |Clive ChristianV for Women |CotyChypre de Coty |DanaTabu |DiorMiss Dior Original |DSH PerfumesMirabella | Parfum de Grasse |Editions de Parfums Frédéric MalleLe Parfum de Thérèse | Noir Epices |Emanuel UngaroDiva |Estée LauderAzurée | Knowing | Private Collection | Private Collection Jasmine White Moss |FendiFendi |Giorgio ArmaniArmani Privé - Éclat de Jasmin |GrossmithHasu-no-Hana |GucciL'Arte di Gucci |GuerlainMitsouko |HalstonHalston |Keiko MecheriUmè |Le LaboBelle du Soir | Ylang 49 |Liz ClaiborneLiz Claiborne |Ormonde JayneTiare |Paco RabanneMétal |Paloma PicassoPaloma Picasso / Mon Parfum |Parfums MDCI ParisChypre Palatin | Enlèvement au Sérail | Promesse de l'Aube |Profumum RomaRosae Mundi |Robert PiguetBandit |Roja ParfumsDiaghilev | Enslaved | Mischief | Nüwa | Unspoken |Serge LutensChypre rouge | Daim blond | Rose de Nuit |SisleyEau du Soir |Solange Azagury-PartridgeCosmic |Tauer PerfumesNo. 08 - Une Rose Chyprée |Tommi SooniTarantella |Van Cleef & ArpelsFirst | Yasmin is relieved to know she'll get to return to this one day. "How long does it take to finish a novel?" she asks. "No telling," I reply. Yasmin looks upset. "Do you realize, author, that you have left my story hanging?" I do and I'll rectify that now.Having insulted Walad with a blatant display of his intimacy with Yasmin, Prince Ahmed invites him into the palace for dinner. Walad arrives stone-faced, interested only in taking possession of his son, he says, though his gaze returns to Yasmin again and again. The two men observe civilities, but after dinner, Walad demands to see his child. Prince Ahmed responds by informing Walad of the Sassanian belief which says the baby is his, not Walad's.Walad erupts in anger as Yasmin knew he would. His own men must prevent him from grabbing a weapon. Soon Walad regains controls and says, "I have not brought an army, as you see, Prince Ahmed, only my personal contingent. I did not think that you, the heir to your throne, would break your word."Prince Ahmed stands and takes Yasmin's hand. "I made no promise to you. My wife did. Her word does not bind me.""You realize this means war?" Walad says in anger."So be it," Ahmed replies and leads Yasmin from the room.That evening, Yasmin sends a desperate message to Fizur by way of Diba. "Would you see your beloved master, Walad, die? Would you see him kill my husband? If not, help me."Fizur returns an answer. "I am at your command, my Sultana, for so you will ever be to me." Diba says that goes for her as well.This is how the future heir, Adur, and his mother, Yasmin, came to leave their palace in the middle of the night, in a caravan that showed no royal markings or signs of wealth--accompanied by her faithful servant, Diba, by Diba's husband Fizur, and their child. Knowing the desert winds would in moments cover their tracks, Fizur turns their camels and horses (among them Yasmin's Arabian), toward north Africa where neither Walad nor Ahmed hold sway.To be continued.

...I've bought mine from luckyscent where 30 ml can be had for $50-$78 (the latter for the new ones). Is that a price increase? 100 ml goes for from $130 to $235.

...28, rue de Richelieu 75001 ParisHOUSE OF NICOLAÏIn 2008, Patricia de Nicolaï was awarded the rank of Chevalier (knight) in the Legion of Honor, the highest award for merit France bestows. That same year she became president of the famous perfume archive, the Osmothèque. Even as the great-granddaughter of Pierre Guerlain and niece of Jean-Paul Guerlain, she had been passed over for promotion because of gender discrimination so these were great victories. With husband Jean-Louis Michau, she launched her own perfume company in 1989. From their catalog: “Patricia wished to be free in her creative choices and free to use the best quality ingredients available. Jean-Louis was the production man. He wanted to establish a family company with a strong and substantial concept which was to emphasize the primary role of the perfumer.”We are the beneficiaries.Having discovered two wonderful scents from this house (Odalisque and Rose Intense) during two different sniff tests, I wrote and asked if they made samples available. Today, a few strips soaked in scent arrived. Sniffing through. OS=ordering sample.Will order others as well and update when they arrive.AMBER OUDLavender, Thyme, Mugwort, Cinnamon, Saffron, Oud, Cedar, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka bean, Storax, Musk, Castoreum, Amber, LabdanumOh, fabulous! A masterwork of notes that blend perfectly! May just skip the sample and go for an FB.L’EAU MIXTEGrapefruit, Mint, Spices, Black currant, Rose, Jasmine, Oakmoss, MuskLovely florals, oak moss and musk, distinguished by the interesting rest. OSMUSC INTENSEGalbanum, Pear, Rose, Violet, Jasmine, Sandalwood, MuskAddicted on first beautiful sniff. OS, maybe an FB.MUSC-MONOÏNeroli, Lemon, Paraguayan petitgrain, Ylang-ylang, Magnolia, Jasmine, Coconut, Calone, Ylang-ylang absolute, Mysore sandalwood, MuskThe petigrain is strong but as a musk, sandalwood and jasmine lover, I’ve got to try it. OSNEW YORKLemon, Lemon petitgrain, Bergamot, Lavender, Mugwort, Pepper, Pimento, Patchouli, Cedar, Vanilla, Leather notesProbably not my thing, but hubby may like it. It’s a clean, distinctive scent, long on lemon and lavendar.PATCHOULI INTENSELavender, Geranium, Orange, Ceylon cinnamon, Rose, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Amber, VanillaInteresting. I like Patchouli and this is definitely an intense one. OSROSE OUDAnimalic notes, Davana, Osmanthus, Oud, Patchouli, Rose absolute, Turkish roseA distinctive oud though, for me, something too pungent in the top note, perhaps the Davana combined with Patchouli creates a too-sharp note.ROSE-PIVIONERed fruits, Roman chamomile, Rose absolute, Rose essence, Geranium, Woods, MuskThis could be gorgeous and it is. It’s a realistic rose which reminds me of The Perfumer’s Workshop Tea Rose line. OSSACREBLEU INTENSEBergamot, Mandarin, Blackberry, Raspberry, Carnation, Jasmine, Tuberose, Cinnamon, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Benzoin, Tonka beanThis is probably going to be gorgeous, too. Love the strong carnation note, the citrus and berries, etc. OSVANILLE-TONKABasil, Mandarin, Lemon, Orange blossom, Black pepper, Cinnamon, Frankincense, Vanilla absolute, Tonka beanNot sure what to expect. Ah, the citrus and spice are strong. Very vanilla. Nice, but not for me.

...Though the birth was only five hours, fairly quick for a first-time mother, Yasmin lies exhausted. Silence fills the room as her newborn son is passed from Ahmed’s mother to Yasmin’s mother, to the various sisters, aunts and cousins. Since Yasmin is Ahmed’s “field,” her body has produced his heir, but it is clear to all that Walad did the planting. Prince Ahmed’s hair is brown, his eyes green. Yasmin’s hair is dark brown. The baby’s hair is black like Walad’s, the eyes are brown like Walad’s, his face square like Walad’s, not oval like Ahmed’s and Yasmin’s. Anxiously, Diba lurks in the background, torn by her secret assignment. She was allowed to visit Yasmin so she could report: who does the baby look like, Ahmed or Walad? One by one the women leave Yasmin’s room, taking the news with them. In moments it will be all over the palace, in days all over the kingdom. Sultan Walad fathered the patikhsahi Yasmin’s child. Diba knows there is no point in lying when she reports.One of the departing women hands the baby to Diba, but before she can place him in Yasmin’s arms, the door opens and Prince Ahmed enters with a woman servant. “Let me see the child,” he says. He takes one look, removes the baby from Diba’s arms and hands it to the servant. “She is a wet nurse,” he says to Yasmin. Alarmed, Yasmin sits up. “No, I will nurse him!” Discretely, Diba and the wet nurse depart. “No, my Love,” Ahmed says. “I will have you fertile. While you nurse, you wouldn’t be. Swiftly I must plant a new seed.” Yasmin must obey him, but tears fill her eyes. Prince Ahmed sits beside her and holds her as she weeps.Later, Diba returns with the remaining perfumes to console her. Off and on Yasmin still cries, a mother without her child. Easily she chooses the final five.CaronInfini (1970)DanaTabuNarciso RodriguezFor Her (Eau de ToiletteVan Cleef & ArpelsFirstYves Saint LaurentOpiumOnly toward the end of Diba’s visit does Yasmin think of returning to the perfumes again to pick the winner. Easily she eliminates the Narcisso Rodriquez and the Caron in search of the most potently lovely classic oriental. “Which should I pick?” she asks Diba. Peachy First, civety Tabu or spicy Opium? Each is a treasure, a diamond among jewels. But which is the best of the best?”I am alarmed. How could they have eliminated my adored Bal à Versailles? “My nose did the picking,” Yasmin pouts. “Aren’t you always bowing, author, to the nose above all else?” I inquire which she picks as the best. “It was obvious,” Yasmin replies. “I sprayed them along my hands and arms and waited for the dry down. A clear winner emerged. Of the 65 we’ve sampled, Opium is by far the best. It has wonderful longevity and sillage. Compared to it, First is a tad too sweet and Tabu a tad too animalic. In its many notes, vintage Opium achieves a balanced beauty that is not excelled.”I think she may have made a mistake by comparing Opium to only one version of Bal à Versailles, rather than to the Edt, EdC and Pafum worn together as Jean Desprez intended. To test her conclusion, I spray the trio on one wrist and Opium on the other and go about my day periodically sniffing.Meanwhile, Prince Ahmed enters Yasmin’s room and Diba swiftly departs. He hasn’t been there since the day Yasmin gave birth. She has long stopped weeping, since it is no use. Her body is perfect again, strong and fertile. She looks down as he approaches. He lifts her chin. “How beautiful you are. Any man would love you as I do.” He kisses her lips. “Ask anything of me, lovely one.” Against her will, angry tears fill her eyes. “I ask that you never take a child from my breast again, whatever the circumstances.” Prince Ahmed does not speak. Gently he rests his forehead on hers in silent assent. Her tears stop as they breathe each others’ breath. Once again passion overcomes them. Soon they are entangled as Ahmed seeks to beget a child that is his. All night he does not leave her and in the morning Yasmin rises as he sleeps, pulls on a delicate robe and goes to her balcony to greet the morning. On the horizon she sees a small caravan approaching, no doubt come to take Diba home. Yasmin watches and soon realizes that among the riders is not just Fizur, Diba’s husband, but Walad. Her heart sinks. He has heard the news and come for his child.Will Ahmed give her baby up? Arms encircle her from behind. Ahmed has woken. She starts inside, but he puts his cheek next to hers and makes her stay — obviously so Walad can see their embrace. In these months she has learned how intensely jealous Ahmed is that Walad once loved her, possessed her body and soul. In her ear, Ahmed whispers the old Sassanian belief, “Woman is a field. All that grows there belongs to its owner even if he did not plant it.”Yasmin faces the truth. She loves Ahmed, but she also has never stopped loving Walad. Only one question remains. Which one will die in the struggle for her beloved son, Adur, short for Adur-pata, the name Ahmed gave him—protected by the fire god. She knows neither man will give in.Walad comes in sight of Prince Ahmed’s palace and makes out a couple in embrace on a high balcony. His heart drops when he realizes it is Yasmin and Ahmed.Out of sight, Diba whispers to me, “Which one did you pick?” I sniff again and agree with their selection of vintage Opium, but say I do not intend to abandon Bal à Versailles which, though less potently voluptuous, is an achievement in sophisticated charm.What notes does Opium have in common with Bouquet Opoponax, G.W. Septimus Piesse's long ago oriental? Bergamot, Jasmine, Mandarin, Orris root, Patchouli, Rose, Opoponax, Vanilla. Opium has all but four of the original notes, plus a good deal more.

...The Art of Sassanian Iran On arrival, Diba instantly sees the difference between an Arab and a Persian palace. Here, decoration is a high art. Here, women are splendidly clothed and unveiled. Here, women even go to war. As she’s taken to Yasmin’s rooms, Diba marvels at the bold Sassanian woman clothed in bright battle raiment who passes. She’s heard rumors of such women but never seen one.Yasmin does not rise when Diba enters. She is days, hours, from giving birth, but Yasmin holds out her arms to Diba and they embrace, their relationship far beyond servant and mistress. Oddly, they both had the same dream in which the goddess Aphrodite and the god Poseidon interfered in their lives during Walad and Yasmin’s honeymoon on Cyprus. They were sniffing incense perfumes at the time. As a result, Diba became Walad’s powerful second wife. Discussing the dream brought them closer, to say nothing of the scandalous event when Yasmin’s new husband, Prince Ahmed, entered the royal bedroom at Walad’s palace and seduced Yasmin. After they embrace, Yasmin groans. “What does childbirth feel like, Diba? Will it hurt very much?” Diba doesn’t want to say exactly how much it will, so she changes the subject. “See what I have, mistress. Walad has sent you 29 favorites from our oriental sniff-fest.”Yasmin forgets all about childbirth pain. Eagerly she lumbers to a table and asks Diba to spread out the precious bottles. She sighs, admiring them. “Diba, I have an idea. They’re all beautiful, but what if we sniff through the whole lot one after the other, eliminating as we go.” Diba asks, “But won’t we get anosmic?” To demonstrate why not, Yasmin blows air in and out of her nose and points to an ornate ewer full of water. She’d suggest they sniff coffee beans, but I tell her they haven’t been introduced to Asia and the Middle East yet. “One good sniff, that’s all, keeping whichever enthrall us the most. Let’s try to cut the list in half. For this to work, we’d better start at the top.” She looks at me and picks up my favorite, Bal à Versaille. I nod agreement. We all sniff it. With that as a basis, we begin.The 10 FinalistsAnne KleinAnne Klein IICaronInfini (1970)CaronParfum SacréDanaTabuJean DesprezBal à VersaillesYasmin and Diba pause to rest their noses. Diba asks what makes these perfumes stand out. Yasmin replies, “The classic oriental accord is mesmerizing by itself (bergamot, jasmine, amber, musk, vanilla) but with the addition of woods and resins, of other florals and animalics, and often spice, the accord becomes celestial, narcotic, a fragrance experience so magnificent that in homage other senses pause. Ears hear only silence, eyes do not see, touch is numbed as the monarch of scent ascends its throne in the soul.”Diba stares at Yasmin, understanding her at last. Of course diamond veils did not turn her head. She is a priestess, passion her god.“How is it with you and Prince Ahmed?” Diba asks. “Are you his chief wife?” Yasmin nods. “We drew up a proper Sassanian wedding contract which stipulated money and property affairs. I marry you, I marry you, I marry you, isn’t enough here. He said it only to satisfy Walad. Prince Ahmed has afforded me the highest rank. I am his patikhsahi or privileged wife, which means I run the household and will inherit when he dies, unless it’s proven in court that I disobeyed him.” Yasmin laughs. “Why would I, when he grants my every wish?”Refreshed, they continue sniffing.LancômePoêmeNarciso RodriguezFor Her (Eau de ToiletteRevlon / Charles RevsonCiaraVan Cleef & ArpelsFirstYves Saint LaurentOpium“What of the child?” Diba asks. Yasmin looks away. She cannot tell Diba the one troubling fact. Yes, she promised to return the baby to Walad if it’s clearly his, but after their arrival Prince Ahmed reminded her of the long-standing Sassanian belief. “Woman is a field. All that grows there belongs to its owner even if he did not plant it.” Neither Prince Ahmed’s father, the Shahanshah (King of Kings), nor his kingdom would support giving away a child born to their future sovereign’s patikhsahi wife."What does Walad care?" Yasmin asks. He has a new first wife, Havva. "I'm sure she'll be pregnant soon. How is she?" Diba looks sheepish. "I think if I say your name one more time she will strangle me." They laugh.Yasmin is about to speak when a sharp pain stops her words, followed by fluid seeping down her leg. She screams in sudden pain. Diba runs for the midwife and soon all the women of importance are in Yasmin’s rooms — her mother and Prince Ahmed’s, his sisters and aunts, the chief royal eunuch, too, ready to officially record the exact birthtime and place of the future heir to the Sassanid throne.Next installment. The best oriental.

...MORE CARNATIONSComme des GarçonsSeries 2 Red: CarnationInitially this is beautiful. A strong carnation note married with jasmine and rose is hugely enhanced by goji berry juice. I chew on them often and can smell it. Apparently, many perfumers seem to think it mandatory to pair carnation and clove, which has worked in some of these fragrances, however, these folks also thought pepper would help. Soon after the initial loveliness I'm overcome with spice. After a while it becomes tolerable, but not enough to strongly appeal until well into the drydown.Gloria VanderbiltVanderbiltThis is a classic oriental (bergamot-jasmine-musk-vanilla-opoponax instead of amber), but it has a strong carnation note. I prefer more indolic florals to star in my orientals but this is lovely, too. Think Opium in her sunday best.Oriza L. LegrandOeillet Louis XVWow, interesting on first musty whiff. What am I smelling? Pink Pepper and clove again, lots of carnation paired with iris, rose and sultry orchid. Woods, rice, honey and musk in the base. Legrand knows what they're doing. Here, clove and pepper don't overpower, they enhance. This is a gorgeous softly woody-musty scent. Mandarin in the top is the right citrus -- not too astringent. Thanks, Pipette for suggesting it.Penhaligon'sTralalaAnother nice one. Deeply resinous-wooody musk surrounds the carnation, joined by tuberose and ylang-ylang. A man could wear this as well as a woman. Frankincense and myrrh, saffron, whiskey, ambrette seed and more? I'm noting how leather can tame potentially harsh notes. It's really divine. Smells like a perfume stand in a Turkish bazaar situated next to the only church in town.Tiziana TerenziLillipurI often love Tiziana Terenzi perfumes, this one included. Carnation is the only floral in this even more musky-resinous-woody spicy scent, vermouth of all things enhancing the top and it works. What a richly fragrant unisex perfume. It's in the same family as the Penhaligon, but more compelling. Mmmm.A final quick sniff of my hands and arms tells me if I buy one of these it will be the Legrand or the Terenzi.

...Thanks, Triffid. I have Vanderbilt somewhere! Must dig it out. Haven't tried the other two. I see what you mean, but luckily Carnation is new to me, since I'm still discovering genres and notes.Triffid:I own three perfumes with strong carnation notes, though they are by no means soliflores. "Fidji" by Guy Laroche, "Anais Anais" by Cacharel and "Vanderbilt" by Gloria Vanderbilt.It used to feature in men's fragrances (e.g. "Old Spice") far more than today. I suppose it is regarded as somewhat old fashioned these days.

...Awaiting the arrival of La Prairie's Life Threads Platinum, a blind buy based on the recent review. Also awaiting Rochas Femme EdT, not a blind buy though I realize now that what I tested was the EdP.

...Yes! Thanks, Pipette, I'll find a sample.Pipette:Do you want to include this lovely carnation scent in your Sniff-Fest?http://www.orizaparfums.com/oeillet_louis_xv.html

...I remember my mother wore Abano by Prince Matchabelli and yesterday when I smelled it realized she wore Blue Carnation by Roger and Gallet. She also used lavender toilet water and soaps. Lavender was her favorite note and daisy her favorite flower.

...CARNATIONS (continued)DKNYBlack Cashmere Don’t like this one. It was included in a carnation collection on surrender to chance but carnation isn’t listed among the notes here. Trying again to detect it by sniffing carnation sample then the perf. Yes, I think it’s in there, but overpowered by the saffron and woods. Beginning to realize I don’t like super funky fragrances. Objectively, this is beautiful. The nutmet, saffron and frankincense create an exotic and alluring top note. More frankincense in the base, along with amber and woods, really make for a … what is the word for it … dark loveliness. It’s just not for me.DKNYGoldThis has “golden pollen, gold dust, and golden resins” and I have no idea what they smell like. The top note for me is initially confusing but the carnation soon rises strong and beautiful, equalling the heart floral, Jasmine, and the lily in the top. Amber and patchouli in the base are wonderful. But there is this sort of bright mustiness overlaying it all, which may be what the “gold” is meant to smell like. I own it, but don’t wear it much. Maybe I shouldEstée LauderBeautifulAgain, this was on a list of carnation perfumes, though carnation isn’t listed among the notes here, nor is it a prominent scent. Beautiful this is, though, as a symphony of florals in the top and heart ride above a fabulous amber/sandalwood/vetiver base. Gotta wear it.GuerlainL'Heure Bleue I wore this splendid beauty on my wedding day and felt as special as this fragrance is. My guy wore Bois D’Ascese, IMO the perfect pairing. L’Heure Bleue is one of the handful of fragrances that transport me and can leave me speechless in admiration. Now I realize carnation is its star. Aniseed and violet lend magic, neroli and bergamot sultriness. Iris is charming in the base (along with vanilla, benzoin and tonk a). To me it ranks with vintage Mitsouko and Bal à Versailles as one of the reigning queens of perfume.GuerlainSous le VentCreated for Josephine Baker, I give respect to this unusual grand dame of a fragrance, though it’s not for me. Beautiful, luxurious flowers are made a little strange by Tarragon, which I’m sure was just the thing for this exotic performer. Surely she didn’t smell like anyone else.Issey MiyakeL'Eau d'IsseyAnother love at first sniff at a perfume counter though at the time I didn’t know why. Now I do. Lovely, lovely carnation plays among fresh notes (cyclamen, freesia) and melon. In the dry drown, lily, peony and rose join in. And it has my kind of base: amber, woods, musk (along with osmanthus and tuberose). This was one of the first marine fragrances for women, but it’s the carnation that does it for me.Nina RicciL'Air du TempsI think I wore this for a brief time long ago. No memory of what it smells like. Trying it. Now I remember, but it smells old to me. It’s a heaviiy floral scent with only Bergamot, Peach, Rosewood and Sandalwood departing and not strongly. I find it too sweet, wanting resins and musks.Roger & GalletBlue Carnation / Œillet BleuI’ve been eagerly looking forward to testing this because I think I remember it on my mother’s dresser in my childhood. Its notes aren’t listed at parfumo, so here goes a blind first sniff. Yes! My mom wore this. I remember smelling it on her. She was such a grand gal, a one-of-a-kind beauty (the kind that stops traffic) and so talented. I spent my childhood just delighting in looking at her and hearing her sing all over the house or read to us. She would have loved something unusual like this. Besides Carnation I smell pepper and something else …an herb …oh, that’s clove. What else …some sort of wood. Something green. Vetiver? Nope this fragrance isn’t me, but it’s definitely mom. She had the verve to carry it off. I like a more sensual and romantic scent. Hat off to her and her perfume. So glad I found it.Serge LutensVitriol d'ŒilletVaguely similar to Blue Carnation, but the clover and pepper are less strong. I could wear this one. In fact i want to wear this. It has Gillyflower. Never heard of it, but it’s sure beautiful with the carnation. It feels like a gift. Something I can wear to remind me of mom. An opera playlist has been running as I sniff and, by coincidence, Madama Butterfly’s love song is playing now. My older brother, who was a tenor, and my mother, a coloratura soprano who gave up her career to raise us, actually sang this around the house. How blessed I was to be there and hear it.SisleyEau du SoirLast but by no means least, this is my latest acquisition, another fragrance counter love-at-first-sniff, a chypre so beautiful it could compete in a contest with Mitsouko (yes, it would lose but it would be a runner-up). What a haunting, musky enchantment of powerful carnation reigning over the fantastic heart of florals, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli and spce. The top and base are magnificent in their simplicity: grapefruit and mandarin then ambergris and musk.So that’s it for the carnations I have, one new acquisition emerging from it: Vitriol d’Œillet. This was such a joy. My hands and arms are splashed with versions of lovely carnation and my ears have heard the ecstasy of great music — a wonderful way to pass the time.Logging off before Butterfly sings the heartbreakingly beautiful Con onor muoure. I’m too happy to hear her die.

...http://www.sophisticatedgardening.com/when-to-plant-carnations.htmlCarnation Mini-Sniff FestHaving just added carnation to my favorite florals list (along with Jasmine and Rose), I’m doing a mini sniff-fest of the following 17 which supposedly have it as a prominent note. Sniffing my carnation sample from Perfumers Apprentice first. If I had to describe it to someone who’d never smelled carnation, I’d say: imagine a mild narcissus spiced with clove and a little vanilla and you’re close.Here goes.AmouageHonour WomanCarnation’s definitely in there, if subdued by the amber and leather. Pepper in the top note makes my nose twitch, but this is an appealing fragrance, the other heart florals (Gardenia, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-Valley, Tuberose), highlighting the carnation. The base is amber, leather, opoponax, vetiver, frankincense. Not a buy for me but far from awful.BalenciagaBalenciaga Paris This one is a carnation/violet chypre. Didn’t love it on first try, but this time I enjoy the smooth sophistication of oakmoss, labdanum and woods. If I didn’t know it was called Paris, it would remind me of the city. Probably not a buy, but who knows what the 3rd sniff will bring.BalenciagaFlorabotanicaOne sniff at a perfume counter and I was in love. This is pure carnation and rose. For me, irresistible. Mint lifts it, vetiver adds freshness, amber richness and caladium leaf—it must be adding to the green. Love, Love, love. Calvin KleinEternityOh, nice! At first I thought there must be too much else in here for the carnation to stand out, but after the beautifully green-citrus top note settles, after the woody, musky, amber base rises and calms down, the heart florals rise with carnation as a star, if a muted one. Delightful.CaronBellodgiaHere’s another I fell in love with on first sniff. To me, this is practically a drug. Musk, sandalwood, vanilla and carnation in the base create such a richly luxurious smell, along with the heart florals that a mere whiff sends me into ecstacy. Can this magic be produced by only 8 notes? Checking my Caron catalogue. Yep, that’s what they claim. Each of the 8 must be the finest of its kind. This is a masterpiece.CaronEn Avion Another first sniff love. Carnation, Jasmine, Neroli, Opoponax. Carnation and opoponax anchor the scent, creating a frame to civilize the indoles in Jasmine and Neroli. It’s just tremendous.CaronPoivre (EdP)Smelling this one for the first time and a little leery since poivre means pepper. Wow, somehow clove, red and black pepper in the top note make this a totally funky perfume. I’m sure resinous oak moss and opoponax in the base help, as does the sandalwood. The heart is carnation, rose and yang ylang. It reminds me a bit of vintage Tabu. To me it’s a very suggestive perfume. Clove stars in the dry down, saving it from the gutter and the carnation hangs in there against it, if barely. This is much spicier than I like but it will surely turn heads.

...SEMI-FINALSDiba wants to leave Sultan Walad’s household and join Yasmin’s and Prince Ahmed’s. Havva, her new mistress fervently agrees. For a month she has been married to Walad and all she hears from Diba is, “Yasmin, Yasmin, Yasmin.” Since Havva is only 15, Diba thinks she’s helping by informing her of how Yasmin did things, but Havva has come to hate the very name, Yasmin. However Fizur, Diba’s husband, does not want to leave Walad. He has guarded him since the beginning of his reign. No one else knows Walad’s ways like Fizur does.As a compromise, a visit is arranged. Diba and her baby will travel to Prince Ahmed’s palace for a month. Twenty-nine of the original 65 perfumes have survived the initial sniffs and Diba knows Yasmin would like to narrow the list down. As a wedding gift, Walad sends them to Yasmin via Diba.Anne KleinAnne Klein IIBijanBjan WomanCaronAccord 119CaronInfini (1970)CaronNocturnesCaronParfum SacréCartierPanthère de CartierChloéChloé (1975)DanaIncognitoDanaTabuFendiFendiFerréGianfranco FerréGabriela SabatiniGabriela SabatinGucciL'Arte di GucciHermès24, FaubourgJean DesprezBal à VersaillesJoop!Joop! FemmeKenzoFlower by KenzoLagerfeldSun Moon StarsLancômePoêmeMajda BekkaliFusion sacrée clair / elleNarciso RodriguezFor Her (Eau de Toilette)Paco RabanneLa NuitRevlon / Charles RevsonCiaraRochasRochas Femme (1989)Salvador DaliLaguna MaravillaTed LapidusLapidus WomanVan Cleef & ArpelsFirstYves Saint LaurentOpium

...Never had a chance to meet my mother-in-law who passed on before I married my guy, but I'm enjoying this topic vicariously. I know she loved to grow flowers, especially African Violets, so I can picture her wearing Je Reviens or something akin to SL's Bois de Violette, which had yet to be created. Since, like me, she enjoyed making things herself at times (I make soap now and then), she might have made her own violet water, too.