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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   22.01.2012 | Miscellaneous

Storing & Organising Your Perfumes

...I can manage my ~200 perfumes, but I do have problems with my samples. I put them into those little bags that you get when you order them at First-In-Fragrance, and I stuffed little file cards into them as well, so I do have an alphabetical order by brand.But I will have to take the time to refine my system. Especially for "M" there are lots of brands, I will have to be more detailled.
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   21.01.2012 | Perfumes & Brands

Scent of the Day

..."Minotaure"
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Le Mâle (Eau de Toilette) - Jean Paul Gaultier
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   18.01.2012 | Perfumes & Brands

Le Mâle too chawy?

...So, here are mine:"Fleur du Mâle" - simply suits me better."Francois Charles" by Rance - it has this benzoin smell but it is somehow friendlier, more optimistic and also a bit more classy since it has a twist towards classic Eau de Cologne."Antonio De Curtis" - discreet and refined: it combines the benzoin and tonka with some powdery muskiness. Good office wear!
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Le Mâle (Eau de Toilette) - Jean Paul Gaultier
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   18.01.2012 | Perfumes & Brands

Le Mâle too chawy?

...Le Mâle is a great fragrance but highly controversial. It is very popular, but at least in my country, many people think it's vulgar to wear this stuff.I still like it, but I hardly wear it myself. That tonka and benzoin appeal somehow smells like fuel, and it gives me pictures of gas stations. Using gasoline as a perfume is a very old thing. In the 1920's men perfumed their breast handkerchiefs with gasoline in order to show they are motorists.What are your Le Mâle alternatives?
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   18.01.2012 | Perfumes & Brands

Scent of the Day

..."Antonio de Curtis" - a little bit of tonka and benzoin.
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   18.01.2012 | Miscellaneous

Scents From Hell - The Most Beautific Perfumes

...Howardjarvis:Fragrances can be strange. I know of a project where the smell of burning rubber was made for a hot rod exhibition with fast cars. Apparently the public loved it, but who would wear it ? Cheers, Howard, Bud Parfums.Rubber perfumes are not so rare after all: "Bvlgari Black"! But it's not burning.
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Arooq Al Oud (Perfume) - Al Rehab

Middle-Eastern Perfumes

[email protected] Flaconneur: I sent the package to you yesterday - it might take two weeks to the US. Please forward it to Jubliant!
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   17.01.2012 | Miscellaneous

Scents From Hell - The Most Beautific Perfumes

...Cologniac:Neil Morris has some excellent fragrances in this category Oh, yes! One is the extremely aldehydic Vapor! Kankuro described it on the German Parfumo as the smell of "a bakery from outer space". I have it and I wear it maybe once a year, but I make sure I can have a shower after 2 or 3 hours!Neil Morris is definitely worth to be discussed.
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   17.01.2012 | Miscellaneous

Scents From Hell - The Most Beautific Perfumes

...Sherapop:I would say that many of the creations of the house of Serge Lutens fit your description. Admirable, yes. Wearable by me? Very unclear.I agree with you on SL!
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   17.01.2012 | Miscellaneous

Scents From Hell - The Most Beautific Perfumes

...Here are my favorites of that kind:- "Volo AZ 686" by Profvmvm Roma - A blend of gardenia, lots of vanilla, cocos and a dark, pungent note reminiscent of floor wax, shoe cream and furniture polish. Longevity: 24+ h on skin and weeks on clothing!- "Oudh Ma'al Wardh" by Al Haramain. Completely undescribable but extremely strange. I put it into the Arab fragrance explorer package, and I am curious what it will do to Flaconneur!- "Intricate" by Boadicea the Victorious: The smell of a cold ashtray filled with the remains of havana cigars for the price of 520 € (660 USD)! Longevity: 24+ on skin. Had to wash my coat to get rid of it!
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   17.01.2012 | Miscellaneous

Scents From Hell - The Most Beautific Perfumes

...Sometimes, you come across those really extreme fragrances that in a way are absolutely disgusting - but also totally interestant and fascinating. I mean those beautific perfumes that you would probably never wear by yourself but that you cannot deny that there is something behind it.I would like to know: what are your most beautific, perversly good, deliciously repellent, absolutely strange and unwearable perfumes?
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Vétiver de Frédéric - Frédéric Haldimann

So many great vetivers...

...UngerWoo:As an aside, Slumberhouse's Rume has a pronounced Cola note.I will review it soon. I already have their samples.
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Vétiver de Frédéric - Frédéric Haldimann

So many great vetivers...

..."Le Vetiver - Bluff" - I can tell a story about it. When I first tested it on the Düsseldorf perfume fair in April 2010, it was most interesting because it had a Coca Cola note! It was clear to me that I simply had to have it. When it was finally released half a year later, I ordered it and found out this note was gone! Only some grapefruit and maybe sone cinnamon is left, and you can hardly detect any Kola.I think they got cold feet about releasing something that unusual and changed the formula before the final release. What a pity!I also think there is not much vetiver in it. "L'Eau Neuve - Figaro" has much more Vitiver, although it appeared in the L'Eau Neuve series.Not long ago, a perfume with a Cola note was available - it was part of a beautiful gift set of three colognes designed for teenage boys by Nobile 1942: "Cedro Atlas: II Cola" . It has not much longevity but I like it.
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   16.01.2012 | Miscellaneous

Arab Perfume Blog

Re: Cool!
...Cologniac:Honestly, I can't read a word of it! But still, it really looks like a great site. And any blog that has an advertisement for Fahrenheit Absolute front and center? Wow! That's OK with me!Get the Google Chrome browser, it automatically translates, so you can get some senso of it!
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Vétiver de Frédéric - Frédéric Haldimann

So many great vetivers...

...Yes, I also have the original Lubin Vetiver, and I can confirm that it is very much like the Guerlain's. However I think, it resembles more the current Guerlain Vetiver and not the original as it was available in the 1990s and before.If I want to take a trip down memory lane I take a few spritzes of Royall's Vetiver. It is a bit bland and has only Eau de Cologne strength, but it has these dark, green vibrations of the old Guerlain's.The Lubin Vetiver is OK but it simply doesn't get me. The new versions Itasca and Bluff are perfumes with a vetiver note but not at all vetivers in its original meaning. I like the booziness if Itasca, it resembles a little bit "Mister" by Jasper Conran or even the expensive "Jewel for Him" by Micallef.Itasca was highly praised at the German Parfumo, and also some ladies have it. I think it is the booziness that attracts most people. I should take the time and translate my review. It is definitely worth sampling.Two years ago, I met the manager of Lubin at the perfume fair in Düsseldorf. He is a nice french guy and speaks English and German fluently. He was presenting his new fragrances there: Itasca, Figaro, Bluff and Inédite. He wasn't so much enthusiastic about people commenting his perfumes in public since Tanja Sanches wrote that his "Gin Fizz" smelled like nail polish!
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Arooq Al Oud (Perfume) - Al Rehab

Middle-Eastern Perfumes

...Somebody else wants to receive and forward an Arab explorer package?
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Vétiver de Frédéric - Frédéric Haldimann

So many great vetivers...

...I like the Lily-of-the-Valley touch in Tauer's Vetiver Dance, but most Tauer perfumes have a strange resinous note that I cannot make friends with.
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Vétiver de Frédéric - Frédéric Haldimann

So many great vetivers...

...I am also very much into vetiver! My current favorites are the now discontinued "Vétiver de Frédéric", Guerlains "Vetiver Extreme" and their discontinued "Vetiver Frozen Fragrance / Eau Glacée".I also like the Vetiver by Carven and Annick Goutals discontinued Vetiver (which has an aquatic note!).Among the more modern, not so straightforward vetivers, I appreciate Lubin's "Le Vetiver - Itasca" and Heeleys "Cuir Pleine Fleur"
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Arooq Al Oud (Perfume) - Al Rehab

Middle-Eastern Perfumes

...Jubliant:Apicius- would you be interested in sending around an "arabian" explorer package? Yes, of course!I would gladly arrange a parcel with some Arab fragrance samples. It will contain some of of my Montales, Micallef's Aoud Man, Al Rehab's Arooq Al Oud, Al Haramain's Oudh Ma'al Wardh and also something from a sample package I just got from AbuSafiyya.I never give away samples from my collection completely for free. I always ask for reviews in return. So, I suggest anyone who will receive that package should sit down and write a review of at least one or two of those fragrances and post it on Parfumo.The parcel should be sent from one participant to another, and each participant takes over the shipping costs to the next in the line. If you send the parcel abroad, do not forget the customs declaration!Who wants to receive the Arab fragrance explorer package?
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   13.01.2012 | Miscellaneous

The Parfumo Travel Guide!

Berlin, Germany
...Berlin is the capital of Germany, and it has lots to offer for perfume addicts:KaDeWe, Tauentzienstraße (Berlin-Schöneberg)Famous luxury department store with a very big perfume department. They have niche as well as mainstream and I cannot list all their brands. It is noisy, at times crowded and it's where all the tourists go! I like going there because I can test lots of fumes that I would otherwise have to order samples for. And if you look closely, you find one or two shelves with classics from the past: "Ma Griffe", "Oscar de la Renta pour Lui", "Coriandre", "Tamango" and some more.Galleries Lafayette, Friedrichstaße (Berlin-Mitte)Berlin dépendence of the famous store from Paris. The perfume department is a little bit smaller than KaDeWe's. But since their product lineups are not completely the same, it is just as well worth seeing.The Department Store, Friedrichstraße (Berlin-Mitte)Less noisy than KaDeWe and Galleries Lafayette, its big perfume department is more boutique style. The staff is friendly, and they have niche only.Maison Guerlain at Douglas, Kurfürstendamm (Berlin-Charlottenburg)Douglas is the leading perfume chain store in Germany (like Marionnaud in Switzerland and France), and they are altogether not so recommendable. As far as I know, 30 % of it is owned by LVMH, and this is probably the reason the Maison Guerlain's in Germany are always situated in a Douglas store. Guerlain plays hard-to-get with some of their more expensive fragrances which are available exclusively at the very few Maison Guerlain stores. Go there if you run out of "Arsène Lupin"!And now, the real insider's tips:The Different Scent, Krausnickstraße (Berlin-Mitte)Just round the corner of the popular Hackescher Markt, there is this small niche perfume shop. They also run one of the three leading German online shops for niche perfumery. The small shop is worth seeing. You will have to go down a few steps into a basement and mind your head. There are two rooms packed with best of niche. The shop owner is a perfume enthusiast just like we are, and you can spend hours discussing and sampling fragrances! A special sight is the backroom which is dedicated to Barber Shop style: bay rums and lavender waters, and men can buy precious shaving equipment there as well.1000&1 Seife, Rosenthaler Straße (Berlin-Mitte)This shop is all about soaps which they sell to the tourists at the Hackesche Höfe. They even have a small collection of historical soaps. The owner, Mr. Kormann is a hobby perfumer, and you will always find at least one of his own limited edition fragrances. He is happy if people are interested in his perfumes and whenever I am there, I always spend lots of time.The English Scent, Goethestraße (Berlin-Charlottenburg)Charlottenburg is worth seeing – just stroll through the dapper neighborhoods with their patrician houses from around 1900. In one of those houses, you find The English Scent – a small shop that has specialized in English perfumery. They have all the traditional brands: D.R. Harris, Anglia Perfumery, Bronnley, Yardley and many others. Often, the Germans are very exhaustive in what they are doing, and so you will hardly find a perfume shop in London that is more English than The English Scent in Berlin!Heinz Schlicht - ParfumSalon Berlin, Uhlandstraße (Berlin Charlottenburg)The salon is all about grooming. The way they do niche perfumes owes to that and is as exquisite as it is passionate. Well worth a visit.Harry Lehmann, Kantstraße (Berlin-Charlottenburg)Harry Lehmann is the oddest place of all. This small perfume company was founded in the 1920s, and they still produce some of the traditional perfumes of that time. If you want to know how a traditional "Fougère", "Russisch Juchten" or "Reines Kölnisch Wasser" smells like – this is the place to go! Their rather inexpensive fragrances are not so artificial but fine craftsmanship. The shop is a must see: It's design dates back to the 1950's and hasn't changed since then. The place is full of flowers – silk flowers, which is their other business pillar. The perfumes are sold from big bottles, and you can bring your own flacons for fillings.
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