...Glad you liked it, Cincy. Pipette, I'm not sure a vote would be meaningful without smelling the whole lot. I speak from the experience of watching perfumes I've bought and love fall to the wayside when I compared them to ones I hadn't yet sniffed. Does parfumo ever have sample passes? I'd be glad to sponsor one on the quarter final list. Voting then would be fun.For myself, I'm going to attempt to winnow the list down even further to the winning 6. If possible, I'll try to get it down to the one rose I can't live without. I'm waiting on Guierlain's Acqua Allegoria Flora Rosa, so I might hold off on the final pick.

...Now I ask the girls to be ruthless in halving the list. Which perfumes are more than well done? Which are inspired creations -- gorgeous stunners that trigger the instinct to buy.It takes happy hours of sniffing test strips, vials and skin. Here's the result. We're on the fence about the four with asterisks.-------AmouageTribute |CaronN'aimez que moi |CourrègesRose de Courrèges |DiptyqueTam Dao |Editions de Parfums Frédéric MalleUne Rose |GivenchyVery Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena 2007 |GucciL'Arte di Gucci |GuerlainRose Nacrée du Desert |Juliette Has a GunVengeance Extrême |Keiko MecheriGrenats |L'Artisan ParfumeurNuit de Tubéreuse |Maison Francis KurkdjianLumière Noire pour femme |Maria Candida GentileSideris |MontaleAoud Queen Roses | Aoud Roses Petals | Black Aoud |NejmaThree |Perfumer's WorkshopTea Rose |Serge LutensLa fille de Berlin | *Rose de Nuit |Sonoma Scent Studio*Rose Musk | *Rose Volupté |Tauer Perfumes*No. 10 - Une Rose Vermeille |

...ROSE SNIFF SEMIFINALSAs soon as Penka is out of jail, I invite her and Rosa to my house for final sniffs and have trouble ordering in goats blood for Penka, but for Rosa easily obtain Rose Hips tea. Penka says, "Mirror, mirror on the wall, which is the fairest rose of all? This time it's not you, Rosa, we're talking perfumes. Rosa shakes her rose-petal-like hair and points out her beauty is not her fault. Penka starts to sock her, but I stand between them just in time and explain they are archetypes -- modern versions of Innana and Ereshkigal from Sumerian myth. The former is goddess of the sky and the latter of the underworld. Innana wants to descend into her sister's domain to help because Ereshkigal is grieving her husband's death and also about to give birth. Ereshkigal makes the well-meaning Innana strip naked then hangs her up to rot on a meat hook. In short, their dispute is as old as time. Rosa looks awed, but Penka just rolls her eyes and humphs. When they promise to behave, I go get the list, making sure there are no meat hooks around.AmouageTribute |CaronN'aimez que moi |CourrègesRose de Courrèges |CreedFleurs de Bulgarie |DiptyqueTam Dao |Editions de Parfums Frédéric MalleLipstick Rose | Une Rose |GivenchyVery Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena 2007 | Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena 2008 |GucciL'Arte di Gucci |GuerlainRose Barbare | Rose Nacrée du Desert |Jo MaloneRed Roses |JoAnne BassettRose Kiss |Jovoy ParisRouge Assassin |Juliette Has a GunVengeance Extrême |Keiko MecheriGrenats | Mogador |L'Artisan ParfumeurNuit de Tubéreuse |Les Parfums de RosineRose d'Été |M. MicallefParfum Couture Denis Durand |Maison Francis KurkdjianLumière Noire pour femme |Maria Candida GentileBurlesque | Cinabre | Sideris |MarniMarni |MontaleAoud Queen Roses | Aoud Roses Petals | Black Aoud |NejmaThree |Parfums de NicolaïRose Intense |Paul SmithPaul Smith Rose |Perfumer's WorkshopTea Rose |Roja ParfumsDanger |Serge LutensLa fille de Berlin | Rose de Nuit |Sonoma Scent StudioRose Musk | Rose Volupté |Tauer PerfumesNo. 08 - Une Rose Chyprée | No. 10 - Une Rose Vermeille |

...REMAINING ROSESOvercome with emotion, Fortune collects the treasure he’s found and puts it in a knapsack. At last he’s lived up to his name and fulfilled his father’s hopes. He tiptoes to the unguarded door and slips past Rosa and Nikola, whispering to each other. Even though she thinks Nikola deserves it for trying to accuse Fortune, Bendis is infuriated by the theft. Fortune isn’t even Balkan. As it happens, she’s not just goddess of the moon, but of the hunt. When Fortune reaches the outskirts of town she rouses the wolves to chase him. He escapes with his life and only one piece of the treasure — the priceless golden mask of a king, ringlets around his face. Meanwhile, at the jailhouse, Anton asks to see Penka. Why hadn’t he noticed she is beautiful with her black cape and red, rep lips? “I came to see you, Penka.” She rises and goes to the bars. “Tell me,” he says. “Are you a vampire or not?” She sighs and says, “I think so.” Anton is afraid, but she is mesmerizing. Their faces draw nearer. He thinks it was brave of her to risk all to be Queen Rose. “Will you bite me if I kiss you?” he whispers. Penka laughs. “For some reason, I don’t like human blood, just goats.” Relieved, Anton smiles. They kiss through the bars.Next morning, the girls of the rose court surround Rosa on the stage. As in every rose festival, they wear rose crowns, embroidered green aprons and traditional red jumpers over white blouses. The entire town has come, including the whole Petrov family. Rosa insisted on attending the festival. Will the curse come true? Anxiously Nikola watches as Rosa completes the sniffs.Rouge Assassin by Jovoy Paris. “This is a beautiful floral. Perfect for the finals.” Top Notes: Bergamot, Elemi, Rose. Heart Notes: Ambrette, Iris, Rice. Base Notes: Benzoin, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Vanilla, White musk, CedarCitizen Queen by Juliette Has a Gun. “This one is nice, but it has a little of that civety ‘iris-gone-wrong’ note. It’s better in the drydrown, but i’m not sure it’s for me.” Bergamot, Leather accord, Aldehydes. Heart Notes: Iris concrete, Orris absolute, Tuberose, Orange blossom. Base Notes: Ambroxan, Vanilla, Tonka bean, Labdanum, Benzoin, Civet, MuscenoneVengeance Extrême by Juliette Has a Gun. “It smells pleasantly odd, has a kind of spiciness.” Pulling hedione from my notes kit, I can barely detect the note at all. The books says it’s “floral, oil, jasmine, milky, green.” At any rate, it’s very mild. I think labdanum and ambrosian (ambergris) are providing the near-spiciness here, along with patchouli. It’s okay, even striking. Top Notes: Bergamot, Lavender. Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, Patchouli, Hedione. Base Notes: Ambroxan, Vanilla, White musk, Tonka bean, LabdanumBurlesque by Maria Candida Gentile Burlesque. “An interesting fragrance. It smells musky, not very rosy. It’s very nice, though.” Top Notes: Blood orange. Heart Notes: Dalmatian iris, Rose. Base Notes: Frankincense, PatchouliVelvet Rose by Sonoma Scent Studio. “This is a sweetly pungent rose, very damascene. It has a slightly sour note at first that settles down. I like it,” Rosa says. Me, too. Not sure what accounts for the velvety smell, but it’s there. Bergamot, Damascus rose, Clove, Musk, Patchouli, Violet leafNo. 10 - Une Rose Vermeille by Tauer Perfumes. ‘This one is sweetly musky, with wonderful airy brightness in the top. The vanilla and tonka are fairly strong. I like this one, too.” Top Notes: Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon. Heart Notes: Raspberry, Rose, Violet. Base Notes: Ambergris, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Vanilla.At first Rosa thinks they all should go in the finals, but she’ll wait for the drydowns to decide.Murmurs rise as Rosa is crowned Queen Rose. Applause breaks out when she doesn’t die. After the Rose parade there is a feast full of laughter. Wine flows. Bendis notices that, just as in times of old, several young couples including Rosa and Nikola drift off from the merriment and exchange kisses under the moon. Things haven’t changed that much after all with the human race. Bendis leaves Kazanlak and returns to her home. If anyone had been looking, they would have seen a fiery torch atop the Balkan mountains flame one last time and go out.Next Post: the final list.

...ROSE WITH AMBERNikola realizes that arguing with Anton is pointless. They both feel guilt for Rosa’s disappearance at the end of the horse race, just feet from them. They both care for her, but neither knows where she is. Nikola tells Anton he has to go to work and enters the Thracian tomb. Tonight a local policeman is on guard because the regular guard is helping prepare for the festival tomorrow. Nikola says hello to him, goes behind the desk and relieves the clerk then stares at the wall, moping. Suddenly he remembers Penka’s words, “where your treasure is, there will your heart be also.” What a strange thing to say. He did tell Penka about his Thracian gold, but she doesn’t know where it is. Or does she?In the secret room, Penka and Rosa are eagerly sniffing each new perfume. Penka is playing a Balkan mandolin recording and the soft notes fill the chamber: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnUauPCp_MAPortrait of a Lady by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. They both gasp as they pass the vial back and forth. Penka says, “I didn’t think I would like this because of the raspberry, clove and whatnot, but the rose is strong and the woods and incense manage to keep it adult.” Rosa says, “The base is nice, too, but would you actually wear this?” Penka frowns, deciding. “I’m not sure. I just might.” Top Notes: Clove, Raspberry, Rose, Black currant, Cinnamon. Heart Notes: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Frankincense. Base Notes: Amber, Benzoin, Musk.Mohur by Neela Vermeire Créations. “I might wear this one, though,” Penka says. “It’s a complicated scent, full of darkness, like me.” Rosa sniffs. “All I smell is spice, as if roses are trying to crawl out of the kitchen while dinner’s cooking.” I tell them to keep sniffing and soon they both are smiling. “I think this is a voluptuous perfume,” Rosa says, “and, yes, dark like you.” Penka sheds tears. “I really am a vampire, Rosa! Someone bit me on the neck one night in the woods and ever since I can’t see my reflection or eat anything but goats blood, yuck!” Poor Penka. Rosa would console her, but she’s still miffed at being tied up. Top Notes: Ambrette seed, Elemi resin, Cardamom, Carrot seed, Coriander seed, Black pepper. Heart Notes: Hawthorn blossom, Iris, Iris, Jasmine, Leather, Almond milk, Moroccan rose, Turkish rose, Violet. Base Notes: Amber, Benzoin, Blond woods, Oud, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Vanilla.Parfum Couture Denis Durand by M. Micallef. “Oh, I like this one the best so far,” Rosa says. “You would,” Penka retorts and makes herself stop crying, “it’s all sugar and spice and everything nice.” Penka pouts. “No, it isn’t. The cinnamon is very nice, true, but the mandarin, orange blossom and rose are hynotic, not sugary, and the base is a sultry wonder.” I note that in the drydown the cinnamon eventually becomes the most prominent note. Top Notes: Ceylonese cinnamon, Italian mandarin. Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, Honey, Orange blossom, Animalic notes. Base Notes: Amber, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Musk.Mon nom est rouge by Majda Bekkali. “Another spicy one, but it’s not sweet but more smoky because of the elemi and frankincense,” Rosa says. “The base is fabulous. I think it’s for you, Penka.” I agree. The flowers here aren’t the strongest notes, but they’re not invisible, either. This is a definite unisex. Top Notes: Pepper, Lemon, Elemi resin, Pink pepper, Aldehydes, Metallic notes. Heart Notes: Turkish rose, Geranium, Cardamom, Cumin, Cinnamon, Ginger, Frankincense. Base Notes: Cedarwood, Sandalwood, Amber, Vanilla, Labdanum, Patchouli, Tonka bean, MuskRose Intense by Parfums de Nicolaï. Well, this one goes in the finals, I say on first whiff. “Yes,” says Rosa. The rose note dominates and the rest make the scent interesting instead of simply pretty. It’s a sophisticated rose.” Looking up pelargonium: ah, geranium. Top Notes: Bergamot, Blackberry, Raspberry. Heart Notes: Rose absolute, Rose essence, Pelargonium, Violet, Black pepper. Base Notes: Cedar, Sandalwood, Amber, Musk.“How many are in the finals?” Rosa asks. I tell her 35 so far with Parfum Couture and Rose Intense and that I plan to post reviews of them as we decide. Just as the girls are pondering that, they see light from the door and hear the call of a Male Thrush Nightingale. Rosa’s heart leaps. Eagerly she answers the call and someone enters. Is it Nikola? He’s figured out where Rosa is? A male enters. It is Nikola! “You!” he says to Penka. “What have you done? Why have you tied Rosa up?” Meanwhile, Rosa has struggled to her feet. “She kidnapped me, of course, Nikola, so she could be Queen Rose.” Nikola unties Rosa and leads her by the hand out into the burial chamber and freedom, Penka following, wringing her hands. “I didn’t really kidnap you, Rosa, I just…borrowed you!” Then Anton, the policeman, and Fortune are in the chamber, too, unmindful that their drama is unfolding in the hallowed resting place of a former Thracian king. Bendis knows this full well and is upset that it’s been turned into a tourist attraction in the first place. The policemans says, “You are under arrest, Penka. I heard everything.” Rosa doesn’t want Nikola’s sister arrested and realizes Penka had relied on that all along. Nevertheless Rosa says, “No, you’re mistaken. She didn’t do anything.” Predictably distraught to see his sister in such trouble, Nikola rushes out words. “It wasn’t Penka, it was…it was him! “ He points at Fortune, a stranger, who like all strangers is automatically suspect. The policemen handcuffs Penka anyway. “Don’t try to protect her, you two. I’ll call your family and let them know you’re all right, Rosa. Did she hurt you?” Rosa shakes her head no. As the policeman leads Penka away, Anton watches Rosa weep in Nikola’s arms. He realizes Penka told him the truth. Rosa and Nikola are in love. Forsaken, he follows Penka and the policeman. Meanwhile, Nikola takes Rosa outside and sits with her on the steps, making sure she is all right, holding her and, at long last, kissing her sweet lips. Overjoyed and smitten, Nikola has completely forgotten about the falsely accused Fortune who is busily trying to actually become a criminal. Inside the chamber, he searches the walls for the secret place where Rosa was.

...Update. Luckyscent says the petition will go up on their Facebook page at the end of this week :https://www.facebook.com/luckyscent

...ROSE WITH OAKMOSSPenka has had enough of Kazanlak’s Rosa is missing fixation. She knows precisely where Rosa is and, stuffing vials into her pocket, secretly makes her way to the Thracian tomb. When she arrives, she sees Anton arguing with Nikola. Fortune hovers nearby, listening. Unnoticed, she slips by them into the tomb to a secret passageway. Unlike the Myceneans, whom her Thracian ancestors copied, the Valley of Roses had no hills to cut burial chambers into — only mountains. So they built beehive mounds like this one all over the valley and filled them with not only the dead and their horses, but silver and gold. 500 have been excavated so far. Nikola found an unopened one and hid its treasure here where he never returns for fear of being followed. She gave him a clue about Rosa’s whereabouts, but he hasn’t figured it out, “where your treasure is, there will your heart be also.” Penka makes her way to the hidden chamber and illuminates it with a flashlight. Rosa is still tied up like Penka left her. The kidnap was easy. In the dark she put a chloroform-soaked cloth over Rosa’s face and when she went limp, brought her here in a wheelbarrow. Now Rosa lies next to a golden mask of a bearded king, ringlets around his face, not unlike Rosa’s heavenly tresses that look a bit like rose petals. How could hair look like that? “There you are, you wretch!” Rosa says. Penka hasn’t muffled Rosa’s mouth. No point in screaming. Only the dead would hear her. She goes over and puts a thick bread and cheese sandwich in Rosa’s bound hands, gives her some water. After being crowned Rose Queen, Penka plans to let Rosa go. “You’re a criminal! “ Rosa shouts. “You killed that tourist, didn’t you?” Penka sighs. “Of course not. I did try to get his camera, but he got so scared he fell over from a heart attack.” Rosa gulps and talks between big chews. “Why did you want the camera?” Penka decides she’s confessed enough. “I brought some perfumes. Do you want to smell them?” Rosa glowers, but says, “Of course!”Feeling a little guilty (but not a lot) for locking Rosa up, Penka plays haunting Bulgarian pipe music on her iPod as they sniff: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=elOkNCu9ZbsLyric Woman by Amouage. “A good, but not a great scent, IMO,” Rosa says. I agree that the spicy top note dulls the lovely rest. Notes: Bergamot, Ginger, Cardamom, Cinnamon. Heart Notes: Angelica, Geranium, Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang-ylang. Base Notes: Oakmoss, Woods, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Vanilla, Vetiver, FrankincenseLa Vie en Rose by DHS. “This is nicer,” Penka says. I can appreciate the many flowers and the woody/animalic base. Nothing disappears, even the oakmoss, yet it all blends. It’s not a powerful scent, but still it belongs in the finals.” Top Notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Currant bud, Green clover blossom, Neroli. Heart Notes: Rosa centifolia, French lily, French linden blossom, Heliotrope, Lily-of-the-valley, Violet, Violet leaf absolute, Violet, Ylang-ylang. Base Notes: Australian sandalwood, Civet, Grean oakmoss, Moss, Musk, Virginia cedarPeony by DHS. Rosa says, “Nice, but as the name implies, there’s more peony than rose, though both scents are detectable. It has very interesting components but after a while they don’t smell natural. The same may be true of the previous one but it’s lovelier, so easier to forgive.” Note: Ambergris, Australian sandalwood, Bergamot, Bulgarian rose absolute, East indian patchouli, Egyptian geranium, Grean oakmoss, Leaf green, Iris, Peony, Petitgrain, Rose, Russian rose otto, Tolu balsam, Tunisian neroli, Violet leaf absoluteDiva by Emanuel Ungaro. I give Penka and Rosa a vintage EdT sample and they keep jerking the paper from each other. “They don’t make them like they used to,” Penka says. They certainly don’t. But for want of labdanum, this would be a classic chypre, but perhaps its notes are so familiar that it doesn’t bowl me over. Not sure about the finals, but it’s good. Top Notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Cardamom, Coriander, Mandarin, Tuberose. Heart Notes: Orris root, Jasmine, Narcissus, Carnation, Rose, Ylang-ylang. Base Notes: Amber, Oakmoss, Honey, Iris, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver, CivetRose Volupté by Sonoma Scent Studio. “Oh, another beauty,” Rosa says. I completely agree. Something slightly sour in the top note dissipates quickly and we’re left with an hypnotic, sultry chypre, except for a citrus though vetiver will do. These last two perts could also work in the next category: Rose with Amber. Notes: Rose, Plum, Amber, Labdanum absolute, Sandalwood, Cedar, Vetiver, Heliotrope, Clove, Cinnamon, Oakmoss, AldehydesThe sniffing done, Rosa returns to glaring. “Exactly how do you hope to get away with this?” she asks. Penka gets up to leave, not about to reveal her plans. “I’ll be Rose Queen tomorrow. That’s what matters.”

...Well done, us! Thanks to those who started this.

...Rose + Two or More WoodsHaving learned from Penka that her brother, Nokali, will show up for work at the Thracian tomb site, Fortune climbs the low slope of stairs that lead to the beehive mound. Meanwhile Anton gives up searching the fields and heads back to Kazanlak. Everyone knows Penka wants to be Rose Queen and he’s beginning to wonder if she had anything to do with Rosa’s disappearance. He finds Penka still sniffing the fragrances. Bendis hovers invisibly near, upset that she hasn’t gotten anyone to kiss, much less engage in hanky panky. Modern mortals aren’t as much fun as their ancestors, holding their festivals in daytime rather than the splendid night when the moon, Bendis’s heavenly body, reigns. Contemplating the sensual orgies of food, wine and bodies that once took place in her name, she almost misses Anton’s approach. She does catch the look that appears on Penka’s face — hopeless love for this boy, Anton — to which he is utterly oblivious.“Penka!” Anton demands, takes her wrist and pulls her closer. “Do you know where Rosa is?” Penka says nothing, but she thinks: once again it’s Rosa, always Rosa. Unable to contain her sorrow, she starts blubbering right there on the stage, forgetting that vampires never cry, no indeed. Sick of this, Bendis zaps Anton. He softens at Penka’s tears and strokes her hair. He tells her not to cry, almost kisses her, but remembers Rosa. Instead, he hands Penka new perfumes. Unable to believe her eyes, Bendis stalks off to find another likely pair.American Beauty by DHS. Angrily, Penka says, “Can this be as lovely as our Balkan beauty, Rosa?” She sniffs. “Well, perhaps not, since one of the notes blends unfortunately with the palma rosa and sets up a near stink!” Top Notes: Bergamot, Currant bud, Palma rosa, Rosewood. Heart Notes: Bulgarian rose, Geranium, Iris, Moroccan rose. Base Notes: Labdanum, Mysore sandalwood, Patchouli, Peru balsamDirty Rose by DHS. Penka says, “This one is too dirty for me. The leather note is strong, but to me not beautiful.” I wonder what mastic resin is and look it up “the original Winterfresh gum…closely resembles the scent of a pine forest on a winter day.” Then I recognize what I’m smelling. A whiff of pine tar. The rose doesn’t have a chance against it. Top Notes: Ambergris, Australian sandalwood, Bergamot, Brazilian vetiver, Buddhawood, Black currant bud, Rosa centifolia absolute, East indian patchouli, Egyptian geranium, Frankincense, Gallic rose otto, Gaiac wood, Hiba cedar, Labdanum, Leather, Mastic resin, Myrrh.Rose Barbare by Guerlain. “This one’s better,” Penka says. I agree. It’s a lovely and uncommon accord. It must be the Fenugreek and the Underwood. Not sure what either smells like, but the result is captivating, somewhat akin to Tam Dao, if I remember right. I could smell this all day. It belongs in the finals. Top Notes: Aldehydes, Bulgarian rose essence. Heart Notes: Fenugreek, Turkish rose absolute. Base Notes: Underwood, Honey, Patchouli, Peach.Nuit de Tubéreuse by L'Artisan Parfumeur. “Ah, another beauty,” Penka says, “bright with citrus, sharp with spice, but the blossoms and woods shine voluptuously through. It’s really lovely. It’s definitely for the finals.” Looking up cascarilla (powdered egg shell) and furze (gorse, smells like coconut or banana): Top Notes: Angelica, Cardamom, Cascarilla, Mandarin, Pepper, Pink pepper. Heart Notes: Mango, Orange blossom, Rose, Furze, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang. Base Notes: Benzoin, Clove, Musk, Rosewood, Sandalwood, Storax. Looking up what storax smells like: akin to benzoin,but less sweet, more darkly leather; it's a vanilla-cinnamon like resin from styrax balsam.Rose Ishtar by Rania J. “Sweet and animalic. This is an involving scent dominated by rich fruit and dark woods.I would wear it. Not Rosa.” Anton frowns. “Why do you care what Rosa would wear?” Penka doesn’t answer. As for me, I’m torn about Rose Ishtar. It’s an accomplishment, but not a scent I personally love. Many would, I think. Top Notes: Bergamot, Black currant, Lychee. Heart Notes: Damascus rose. Base Notes: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vanilla, Heliotrope, MuskDanger by Roja Parfums. Penka looks at me. “Didn’t you send all the way to London for this sample?” I nod. “Good that you did because it’s lovely.” I agree they did this well, but it reminds me of most Bijans; the volume is muted. I try it on my skin and realize that’s wrong. It’s sophisticated, has strong citrus, strong spice, strong woods and the florals keep up. It belongs in the finals. Top Notes: Bergamot, Grapefruit, Mandarin, Lemon. Heart Notes: Gardenia, Jasmine, Peach, Rose, Violet, Ylang-ylang. Base Notes: Clove, Iris, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, VanillaNo. 06 - Incense Rosé by Tauer Perfumes. I hold this to my nose and it soon gets stuffy. Penka sniffs and says, “Beautiful things here but the incense is a challenge. It’s not as immediately and unequivocally inviting as gorgeous ones like Bois d’Ascese or La Liturgie des Heures. However, it dries better and gives off a more pleasing rose/incense near-oudy reek. But the incense stays too challenging for me. Top Notes: Bergamot, Clementine, Cardamom, Wild rose. Heart Notes: Castoreum, Orris root, Frankincense. Base Notes: Myrrh, Patchouli, Vetiver, Texas cedar.“If you want to find Rosa, ask Nikola!” Penka shouts, finished with the sniffs. Anton frowns. “They love each other! Don’t you see that, stupid!” Penka says. Anton is shocked. Also heartbroken. Can this be true? “Where is Nikola?” Anton asks. She looks at her watch. “Probably at work, by now, assuming he’s not still looking for Rosa,” Penka says and is disheartened to see Anton rush off toward the Thracian tomb.

...Hello, Pia. Your post reminded me I had the best fresh strawberry sorbet of my life years ago while visiting with a colleague in Denmark. Welcome to Parfumo.net. I thought my collection would be under 100, but I flew buy that number. Fun, isn't it?

...Hello, DarkMatter. I'm fairly new here, too, and I've been enjoying your posts, especially your suggestion of the fabulous Aoud Queen Roses by Montale. I know I'll end up with a bottle.Welcome, Kasks, to Parfumo.net and to the obsession.

...ROSE & JASMINEOur stranger named Fortune, though mesmerized by Penka, is overcome with curiosity. “I found this camera in my hotel room,” he says. Penka freezes, recognizing it. “It has a photo taken right here on this stage of a girl and two boys.” Penka blinks and clears her throat before replying. “That’s the missing girl, Rosa. We were all here…” Too late she stops herself. “But you aren’t in this photo,” Fortune says. Penka must lie. “I took it.” Fortune frowns. “Oh, then did someone steal your camera, because…” She reaches for it, but he flips through photos. “Odd, these all seem to be of local attractions and a group of tourists. You must be mistaken that it’s yours.” Penka stops, not knowing what to say. Fortune senses she’s hiding something. “You know Rosa?” Reluctantly, Penka replies, “A bit.” Fortune smiles. “Then you must know who’s offered Thracian gold for her. Of course, it can’t be real.” Penka can’t tell him the truth. Her brother’s Thracian gold is very real. To keep from answering, she picks up vials.Agent Provocateur by Agent Proocateur. “This is delightful,” Penha says. “It has a sultry, smoky note that I like very much. I think it’s the spices. There’s not just rose and jasmine but three other florals as well. I wouldn’t call it a sillage monster, but it’s good.” Notes: Coriander, Saffron, Gardenia, Jasmine, Magnolia, Rose, Ylang-ylang, Amber, Musk, Vetiver. Fortune thinks there’s smokiness to Penka, too, not just the perfume. He is strangely attracted to her dark attire and red lips, though compared to him she is a child.Tribute by Amouage. “This has incense,” she says, “I can smell it right away. It also has a sultry spice and woods. To me, it’s quite appealing— a flowery, woody, incense perfume. The previous one is more flowery, but I like them both. ” Notes: Saffron, Frankincense, Jasmine, Rose, Leather, Patchouli, Tobacco, Vetiver, Cedar.Knowing by Estée Lauder. “Oh, lovely!” Penka states, “This one has oakmoss, I can tell and something I don’t recognize.” Me either. Must be pittosporum. What’s that? Looking it up. An evergreen shrub. It must be supplying the musty greenness. Notes: Mimosa, Plum, Pittosporum, Rose, Tuberose, Jasmine, Orange blossom, Patchouli, Amber, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Vetiver. “Of these three, it’s hard to say which is the best, though Tribute has the most distinction,” Penka says.Rossy de Palma / Eau de Protection by Etat Libre d’Orange. “Something’s too odd here for me,” she says. Me, too. Maybe it’s the pepper and ginger. I don’t think they work so well with Geranium. It lends a brassiness that is more interesting than pretty. Notes: Bergamot, Ginger, Pepper, Geranium, Jasmine, Rose, Benzoin, Cocoa, Patchouli, Frankincense L'Arte di Gucci by Gucci. Top Notes: “Oh, gorgeous!” Penka moans. “This smells like a fine oriental. I love the narcissus, the oakmoss, the amber. But I think I’m not old enough for this.” Fortunately, her author is. This is the kind of luxurious fragrance I adore. Must do a sniff fest of orientals! Notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Fruity notes, Green notes, Coriander, Geranium, Orris root, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Mimosa, Narcissus, Rose, Tuberose, Amber, Oakmoss, Leather, Musk, Patchouli, VetiverNahema by Guerlain. Penka says, “I don’t really like it. It’s too floral, too sweet.” Fortune is surprised. “I believe this is one of the greats and you’re smelling the vintage.” She tries again. “Okay, but it’s powdery, and I’m not into powder. It has no sultriness, just fruity sweetness. It’s not for me.” Me, either, though I’ve tried. It needs some oak moss or amber or musk, preferably all three. Notes: Aldehydes, Bergamot, Green notes, Peach, Rose, Bulgarian rose, Lilac, Hyacinth, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Ylang-ylang, Passion fruit, Peru balsam, Sandalwood, Vanilla, VetiverRose Elixir / Roses Elixir by Montale. “Eww, yuck,” Penka says. “Not sure how they can mess up these notes, but they did. Must be the strawberry and citrus.” Notes: Strawberry, Rose, Citric notes, Jasmine, Orange blossom, Ambergris, Musk, Vanilla. OTOH, if you like strawberry and you like citrus, this could be appealing. It’s just not for me.“I have to pick which go in the finals,” Penka says. The goddess Bendis is impatient with these two. She zaps them with all she’s got. Fortune moves forward as if in a spell and puts his forehead against Penka’s. She tilts her head so their noses touch. For a moment, they just breath in each others’ air. “I’ve never felt like this before,” she whispers. “Neither have I,” he replies, adding, “Why do you dress like a vampire?” Penka steps back. “Perhaps I am one. Perhaps I was really in that photo and you can’t see me because we don’t show up in photos or in mirrors.”Fortune is afraid now, but all he can think of is Thracian gold. “I like vampires. May I talk to your brother?” Penka nods and sets aside her selections for the finals, Tribute and L’Arte di Gucci, wondering what happened to her feelings for Anton.

...Still flaberghasted by this. Don't they realize they will destroy the economies of whole regions? Large parts of Bulgaria, Turkey, France? Going to check with luckyscent to see if they have the petition up yet.

...I'm just discovering Fragonard, too. Love both Grain de Soleil and Soleil. Also Rose de Mai. Must check out their samples!

...Wooden rosesMULTI-ROSESNow to begin the more complex formulations with a look at those with multiple rose notes. First, the story.While Rosa, Penka, Nikola and Anton ponder the pickles they are respectively in, a stranger has come to town. He saw the newspaper ad offering Thracian gold for Rosa’s return and, full of curiosity (and not a small amount of avarice), checks into the same hotel where the unfortunate tourist expired. In fact, he’s in the same room, the hotel having failed to mention someone died there two days ago. The newcomer’s name is Fortune Campbell. His father, a simple farmer, named him that because he wanted his son to be rich, instead of poor like his dad. About to lose the farm, his father took out an insurance policy and staged an accident to kill himself, but the insurance company found out so Fortune lost both his dad and his inheritance all at once. Ever since, he’s tried various schemes to fulfill the destiny implied by his name.Meanwhile, unbeknownst to our characters, the fiery horse race had an unintended effect. Bendis, Thracian goddess of the moon and the hunt in whose honor the first Bendidias were run, has stirred in her invisible home atop the Balkan mountains. She expects more than a horse race, of course. There must be wine and feasting, too, and if a little hanky-panky happens in the process as in rites of old, that’s all to the good. Apparently, modern Thracians don’t understand what’s required and the females are fixated on love, of all things, so she must survey the situation.While Nikola searches the graveyard and Anton the fields, Fortune Campbell’s foot touches something beneath his bed. He bends down, finds a camera and starts looking at the photos. The last is of a lovely young girl on a stage of roses with two fairly handsome young boys, one red-haired, all strangely staring at the same empty space. Very odd. The girl seems to be surrounded by perfume bottles. Out Fortune goes into the night—Bendis hovering invisibly over. He bumps into the angry Penka, on her way to defiantly sniff more perfumes. They gaze at each other and are transfixed. Penka invites him to accompany her to the rose sniffs.Rose Vert by DHS. “One sniff and the reason for the name is clear. This is a very green rose, the top note like smelling roses through a nasal passages stuffed with grass. It’s better in the drydown, but still the green never becomes lovely to me.” Australian sandalwood, Bulgarian rose absolute, Bulgarian rose otto, Rosa centifolia, Citrus oils, Damascus rose absolute, Floral notes, Green oakmoss, Moroccan rose absolute, Rose, Turkish rose otto.Luscious Roses by JoAnne Bassett. “Ah, beautiful roses. This one’s also a bit green but not so unpleasantly. On skin it shines, made seductive by the interesting base. However, the green never really takes a back seat to the roses, as it should.” Pink provence rose, Red Damascus rose, White bulgarian rose alba, Patchouli, Tuberose, Frankincense, Balsam, Bergamot, Jojoba.Rucher Fleuri by Phoenicia. Fortune, who happens to know a bit about perfume, asks Penka if this is the house known for very animalic, even fecal scents and she says yes. “Though the notes look appealing, civet and the loud greenness of Galbanum overpower everything else. Yet it’s still the most wearable of the line, but not by me.” Top Notes: Aldehydes, Honey, Galbanum. Heart Notes: Rose otto, Red rose absolute, White rose absolute, Bulgarian geranium, Base Notes: Vanilla, Sandalwood, Civet.Collectible PHI - Une Rose de Kandahar by Tauer Perfumes. “Ah, what a relief,” she says. “Still this one is quite spicy to the extent it bothers my nose. It may be some chemical. It’s better on skin in the dry down but still a bitter rose. Surely some will like it, though.” Top Notes: Apricot, Bergamot, Cinnamon, Bitter almond. Heart Notes: Afghan rose oil, Bulgarian rose absolute, Bourbon geranium, Tobacco leaf absolute. Base Notes: Patchouli, Vetiver, Vanilla, Tonka bean, Musk, Ambergris.No. 08 - Une Rose Chyprée by Tauer Perfumes. “Oh, I like this one the best of the group,” Penka says. “Nothing’s too green or stark. The bright top note is appealingly citrus and on skin the heart florals bloom against the very interesting base. It’s good enough for the finals, I think.” Top Notes: Bergamot, Clementine, Laurel, Cinnamon, Lemon zest. Heart Notes: Bourbon geranium, Bulgarian rose, Rose absolute. Base Notes: Oakmoss, Labdanum, Patchouli, Vanilla, Vetiver.

...ROSE WITH OTHER FLORALSAdditional Sniffs:Paul Smith Rose. This is a clean and lovely non-cloying rose scent, enhanced by other florals and green tea in the heart, which lends freshness. There’s just enough musk and cedar in the base to prevent it being too girly without overpowering the rose. On my skin this EdP lasts and projects. If you love rose, this one’s a winner. Notes: Magnolia, Violet, Green tea, Paul Smith rose, Turkish rose, Musk, Cedar.Rose de Courrèges by Courrèges. Notes: Bamboo, Peach, Grapefruit, Rose, Violet, Cherry blossom, Lotus, Amber, Musk. The top is made bright by grapefruit, peach and bamboo, then violet and cherry blossom join the rose but don’t mute it. To me, the base is the most accomplished part, rising up to try to ground the florals which it doesn’t entirely do. The total effect is almost spicy but not quite. I keep switching back and forth between this on my right arm and the Paul Smith on my left and I prefer the lovely latter, though they’re both quite good. Hmm…however, as this one dries it gets more and more sophisticated and interesting. In the end, I think it’s a toss up. Can’t go wrong with either. Both go in the finals.That leaves 36 perfumes to sniff in the remaining category: "Rose and Everything But the Kitchen Sink." :lol: Hope to break it down further.

...Hi, Dulcemio. I've been trying to identify rose orientals in the samples I have and it depends on the definition. Everyone seems to agree an oriental has amber, though the Fragrances of the World Fragrance Wheel says: "Sensual, often heavy, blends of oriental resins, opulent flowers, sweet vanilla and musks are introduced by refreshing citrus, green or fruity top notes." It says a floral oriental has orange flower notes with aldehydes and spice and a soft oriental has incense, flowers, spice and amber. The A-Z says they are: "sweet, amber, vanillic accords enlivened with woody, animalic, or floral notes."Given this, I searched my samples for: rose, amber, musk, vanilla (but excluding jasmine) and came up with:Flower by KenzoLipstick Rose by Frederick MalleMon Nom Est Rouge by Majda BekkaliCollectible PHI - Une Rose de Kandahar by TauerCaron's N'aimez que moi knocked my socks off. The notes only list Bulgarian rose, sandalwood and amber but there certainly must be more to achieve that classic oriental scent.

...Companion Plants with RosesROSE WITH OTHER FLORALSAnton, who has been observing Nikola and Penka, steps forth. “Rosa did a better job with the sniffs than you, Penka. You just cry, which isn’t helpful to others!” Penka, who secretly loves Anton to distraction, is taken aback by his criticism. “Also,” he continues, raising his voice, ”how can you engage in this frivolity with Rosa missing?” The rose stage slowly empties under his withering glance, leaving only the three, Penka frozen in grief. Even missing, Rosa has what Penka wants--Anton's attention. Angrily she turns to Nikola. “Well, my brother's offered Thracian gold and her father’s teams are searching.” To Nikola she sneers, “Be careful. Like it says in the Bible, ‘where your treasure is, there will your heart be also’.” Anton snorts. “Read the papers, Nikola. My family has offered a ransom and so has Rosa’s. Nobody needs imaginary Thracian gold.”Penka rushes off, suppressing a sob. Would anyone ransom her? Nikola and Anton, though they’ve had no sleep, leave to keep searching. They go to Anton’s family’s stables where he works, saddle up two fresh mares and ride off in different directions. Nikola heads for the graveyard in fear, remembering Penka’s reference to roses and a tomb.Guess I’d better continue the sniffs while they’re busy.Délire de Roses by Caron. This one isn’t as distinctive as the previous Caron. The lotus and lychee seem to dampen the beauty of the florals. Nothing wrong with it, just nothing right enough to stand up to the others. Notes: Lotus, Rose blossom, Lily-of-the-valley, Rose leaf, Jasmine, Lychee. Chloé by Chloé. This is a charmer, though I’m beginning to think lychee not handled perfectly can detract because these florals ought to be even more beautiful than they are. Notes: Freesia, Lychee, Peony, Magnolia, Lily-of-the-valley, Rose, Amber, CedarwoodUne Rose by Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle. This is a masterpiece that I fell in love with months ago and bought. It is my favorite “realistic” rose, though Tea Rose by Perfumer’s Workshop that I just ordered yesterday at the incredible price of less than $15 may rival it. Odd that one fabulous rose could cost so much for so little, and a perhaps equally glorious rose costs practically nothing for more than twice as much. Yet I’ll never regret buying Une Rose. Other perfumes may smell nearly as good, but I’ll be shocked if any truly surpass Une Rose in the final sniffs. We shall see. If I try I can smell every note individually, or forget them and enjoy a genius imitation of a garden rose in full bloom. Notes: Blue chamomile, Geranium, Wine lees, ISO-E-Super, Karanal, Turkish rose, Castoreum, Patchouli, Vetiver.Rose de Mai by Fragonard. Days ago I discovered and purchased this sweet joy — another bargain. It won’t stand up to the best here, but it’s still lovely. Notes: Lily-of-the-valley, Rose absolute, Black currant, Ylang-ylang. Very Irrésistible Givenchy Rose Damascena 2007 by Givenchy. Beautiful! I smell vanilla and powder initially though they’re not listed. The florals are pretty. The leather and vanilla base comes through eventually. This is a sweetly sultry one. Good enough for the finals? Maybe. Not sure. Notes: Damascus rose, Magnolia, Peony, Rose, Rose tea, Leather, PatchouliKelly Calèche by Hermès. It’s so barely there on both paper and skin that I wouldn’t buy it. It’s becoming clearer and clearer why designers put woods and animalic notes in perfumes. Notes: Grapefruit, Lily-of-the-valley, Narcissus, Rose, Tuberose, Iris, LeatherAttar de Roses by Keiko Mecheri. In this mild fragrance the Taif rose is done right. No lemon. Jasmine is there, but not so strongly it challenges the roses and the base supports, but very very mildly. The result is a pleasant skin scent. Taif rose, Jasmine, Rose, Ambergris, Woods, LeatherMogador by Keiko Mecheri. This is another I bought on first sniff. It isn’t THE most gorgeous rose perfume ever, but I do find its rosy florals quite appealing and Jasmine is effectively used as a base. While Attar de Roses has already vanished on my skin, Mogador stays, a stronger loveliness. Notes: Rose, Damascus rose, May rose, JasmineImogen Rose by Lush. This is a musty floral that on my skin turns a little weird. It might the Ambrette. Better check my trusty notes kit. Yes, that’s it. To me Ambrette has a slightly almost urinal/fecal /peanut buttery aspect which stands out among these otherwise soft notes. Maybe there’s something else here, too, that creates mustiness. I won’t go so far as to call it unpleasant, especially if you like animalic notes. It’s just not what I, myself, want with my rose. Notes: Ambrette seed, Bergamot, Iris, Rose, Tonka bean, Vetiver.Rose d’Été by Les Parfums de Rosine. A pretty rose, indeed, that on my skin gets as musty as I want rose to be. Here the Ambrette actually works. Go figure. It must be the additional notes: Bergamot, Galbanum, Green apple, Yellow rose, Linden blossom, Lotus blossom, Mimosa, Ambrette seed, MuskLumière Noire pour femme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian. Unfortunately, I spilled most of this and as a result have scented toes, but there’s enough left to pick up its loveliness. It’s light but very appealing. Goes in the finals. Notes: Narcissus, Patchouli, RoseNikola dismounts and walks through the graveyard, imitating the call of the Male Thrush Nightingale and desperately hoping he doesn’t hear Rosa’s reply. Normally, he’d never suspect his own sister, but he’s seen sides of Penka he didn’t know existed until now.

...Thanks. You've found me out. I'm an info junkie fiction writer.Pipette:Wow, it reads like an encyclopaedia (in knowledge) and a roman (in emotion). Thank you.

...Greysolon:ScentFan maybe you can answer this question since you've ordered from the DecantShop. When Sweetgrass first posted their link I thought I saw mention of some sort of trade in policy for customer's unwanted perfumes. This morning I don't see that trade notice at all. Did anyone else see something similar or was I hallucinating? If they do take in 'trades' what do they do with those items? I didn't notice anything on the website about decanting 'vintage' perfumes. I'm not saying they're decanting from trades because I honestly don't know. Just wondering...Never noticed that sign before, Greysolon, but I have ordered vintage decants that are specifically labelled as such on the website.