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Iso E Super: inspired invention or chemical horror?

...Greysolon: Iso E is such a beautiful, complex essence that it can almost stand on its own as a complete scent. Almost. Actually, you can get it in a sort of single note perfume by Geza Schön: "Molecule 01"But, after having tested "Molecule 01" I am in doubt that Iso E Super is the characteristic Terre d'Hermès note. I would say, Molecule 01 smells different than the typical cedar-like base in TdH. I do recognise it as a perfume ingredient but a different one. To me, it is something along the woody-ambery line. I know that some people are anosmic to Molecule 01 (Iso E Super), so maybe this fragrance ingredient is generally perceived differently by different people.Given that it is not a perfume composition, Molecule 01 is grossly overpriced. You pay for the bottle and the packaging, and for the convenience of not having to look further. Or is Geza Schön betraying us and Molecule 01 does not contain any Iso E Super at all?Maybe it is worth ordering a small amount of Iso E Super from Perfumer's Apprentice instead, just to find out.
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   24.04.2015 | Miscellaneous

Allergic Reactions

...Maybe it helps to know that you are not the only one.I once had a strong reaction after testing two discontinued fragrances by Crown Perfumery. My eyes got swollen so I couldn't see anything for a while. It happened that day when I was to pick up my father from hospital. In the end, my father went home alone, and I had to stay there for a day :)
Pour Un Homme de Caron (Eau de Toilette) - Caron
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   24.04.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

Which Caron Pour un Homme

...Do you mean this here? far as we know, it is only a special edition to celebrate the 80st birthday, no reformulation. But who knows?
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   08.04.2015 | Perfume Discussions

Period-after-opening symbol?

...I have had perfumes that changed after a year and others that seem to be the same after 10 years. Generally, I would say that most perfumes are usable for 5 years and more if stored in a dark place without much temperature change. Open it, try it and you will know!Only very few perfumes "age" like a good wine by getting more concentrated over the years. Some simply loose fragrance while others get an unpleasant rotten smell. Also, flocculations may be visible.
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   07.04.2015 | Miscellaneous

Weekly Scent Discussion #5: Indie Oils

...I am a bit sceptical. This is really a phenomenon in the US where the regulations on cosmetic product safety are more liberal than elsewhere.As far as I can see the whole hype was initiated by the Natural Perfumers Guild and their followers. It seems they have been giving classes and weekend courses for many years. The result is that many people mix something together, give it a French sounding name (sometimes with a spelling error if it really was French), and upload it on Etsy.Some of them drive us mad with their manic way of constantly launching new perfumes. We have problems to keep up with them. Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab alone has over 500 fragrances in our database, and I am sure we still do not have all.Etsy gives 9,856 results for "natural perfume"!How can you find your way in this chaos?

Weekly Scent Discussion #3: Classifying Orange Blossom

...I always wonder in how far the note Orange Blossom in perfumes is the same as Neroli.As far as I know neroli oil is made from the blossoms of citrus aurantium (bitter orange) put apparently also sometimes from simple orange blossoms (citrus sinensis) - see Wikipedia for details.The scent of neroli is very distinct. It is characteristic for the classic Eau de Cologne, such as Farina's Kölnisch Wasser, Mülhens' 4711 or Guerlains Eau du Coq. There are numerous of such colognes around.On the other side I often get a different perception with perfumes where the note is named orange blossom instead of neroli. Orange blossom seems to be a typical white flower scent which means that it belongs into the neighborhood of jasmine, tuberose and gardenia.An example for a fragrance where I get this orange blossom but not neroli scent would be "Cuir Venenum No.03" by Parfumerie Générale.Does anybody share my perception? Or am I wrong?
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   16.03.2015 | Miscellaneous

Which fragrance is a Hype-king or Overhyped?

...Insense:DonVanVliet:Just read an interview with Pierre Guillaume.. "mainstream shampoo for rich Russians" he says :-) there an English translation available?Unfortunately not.
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   12.03.2015 | Miscellaneous

EU amendment to sharpen restrictions on fragrance allergens

...For comments on the "Opinion" about Vetyverylacetat, the SCCS has set a deadline: May 19th
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   10.03.2015 | Miscellaneous

Weekly Scent Discussion #2: What do they all have in common?

...I think that certain musk components provide a powdery note
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   28.02.2015 | Miscellaneous

Spring is in the air!

...I think we should.Today, I have worn my spring fragrance "Knize Two" for the first time this year!

chanel pour monsieur successor

...I think, "Monsieur de Givenchy" is a very recommendable alternative to Chanel's Pour ! I think it can be regarded as the direct competitor to Chanel's Pour Monsieur. It is a little less citric in the top notes and I feel more at home with it than with Chanel's gents' chypre.Lancôme has its longseller Ô de Lancome as a ladies' fragrance but I think this light green chypre can also be worn by men. However, there is a chypre for gent's from this house: Sagamore. I would call it an oriental chypre, and it is closer to Chanel's flanker Pour Monsieur Concentrée. It is currently discontinued but still easily available.Thank you, WildGardener for bringing Annick Goutal's Eau de Monsieur to my attention. I wasn't aware that they have a chypre.
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   11.02.2015 | Miscellaneous

Pondering 1990's men's fragrances

Re: Pondering 1990's men's fragrances
...Sleuth:When I started my fragrance journey some 4 years ago I was familiar with "Antaeus", the good old animalic stinker from Chanel and I also knew "Platinum Égoïste". The Chanel gent's colognes were all big in the nineties but they left me clueless. Neither the Allure nor the Égoïste fragrances appealed to me. I generally found them unbalanced, soapy or with an unpleasant sharpness. Chanels great chypre Pour Monsieur wasn't that popular and did not came into my view.I have to admit Chanel's Égoïste advertisement was brilliant:
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   11.02.2015 | Miscellaneous

Pondering 1990's men's fragrances

...Weren't the aromatic fougeres already headed south in the nineties?Let's have a look at the wonderful "Globe" by Rochas. When it came out in 1991 I guess you could call it an aromatic fougere although it is a bit on the leathery side. I did not like it at first. It actually had an unpleasant resinous touch. (I guess I would like it today!) It had too much of a powerhouse fragrance for me.Then, some years later I changed my mind and I bought it. I think it had been reformulated during its lifespan - something that already happened in the nineties here and there. But - in this case the change was an improvement. The fragrance appeared to be more elegant, more modern and easier to wear. Actually, the supposedly reformulated Globe is one of my favorites of that time, and I pity its discontinuation. It is a real gem and leftover stock is still available on the net. My presumably 15 year old Globe is still okay. I also purchased another flacon on stock two or three years ago, and it is also still okay. Only the slightest traces of aging.
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   10.02.2015 | Miscellaneous

What kind of fragrance wearer are you? (poll about fav.note)

...Vetiver would have been my choice :)
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   08.02.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

Scent of the Day

...Soft and tender, discrete and fleeting. Annick Goutal's "Mandragore" is hard to define:
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   06.02.2015 | Miscellaneous

Popular Men Fragrances from 1984 - 2014

...Great list!I would add the following1984: Armani's "Eau Pour Homme" - very popular for many years1988: "New West" - the alternative to Cool Water as a fresh aquatic 1992: I think "Minotaure" by Paloma Picasso was a top seller as well as a very distinct perfume. The fragrance was (and still is) outstanding with its oriental-powdery twist. It has become a classic cologne by now.1993: "Background" by Jil Sander1994: "Catalyst for Men" was the comeback of Halston's spicy approach to gent's cologne but with a 90ies twist. The flacon design was an innovation. It was inspired by technical glasses as being used in chemistry labs. I remember huge sales of Christmas edition sets in my local perfume store. The EdT had the colour of amber but the after shave was dark green! People loved it. 1997: I would add Boucheron's "Jaïpur Homme (Eau de Toilette)". I think it gained some attention and was a welcome alternative to Boucheron pur Homme.
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   04.02.2015 | Miscellaneous

Were you ever just a second too late for a bargain?

...Sure.Last year, I found "Noble Vetiver" by Chopard in a shop for a bargain price. But the lady before me bought all 3 flacons that were left!
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   03.02.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

Ludovica Di Loreto

...LubyLudovica, for my country (Germany) I can say that your brand will get lots of attention if you make it into the lineup of a.k.a. First in Fragrance. They are the most complete online shop for niche perfume in Germany, and they are also well-known to an international audience.Other very recommendable niche perfumeries are- Beauty Affair in Düsseldorf- The Different Scent in Berlin- Essenza Nobile- Heike Ackermann in MainzI do not know the Italian niche market very well, but I have the impression that it may be worth to look for the attention of and is also a perfume fair next month in Düsseldorf which might be a good place for networking:
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   03.02.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

Ludovica Di Loreto

...The notes of "Lú Uomo" look like it is a classic Italian cologne with lots of citruses. Maybe something for spring and summer?
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