...Continuing . . .Before sniffing through each of the NadiaZ samples, I'll share that she says her perfumes are 100% natural, and are meant for both men and women. Her design philosophy (Not all perfumes are to wear or for seduction) reminds me of my reaction to early Slumberhouse. Though I couldn't wear most of them, I bought every single one because of the brilliant and unique experiences of smell they offered. So, fyi, finding a fragrance personally unwearable doesn't necessarily put me off. Here goes..Anji Bamboo MistNadia calls this a green perfume. I had to look up the unusual notes. In Greek mythology, Aglaia was one of the three "Charities," the goddess of beauty splendor, glory and adornment. She was the wife of Hephaistos (not Aphrodite?). Botanically, the name refers to a Southeast Asian/Pacific tree in the mahogany family so this note is probably a wood. Next is Boronia, an Australian flowering plant in the citrus family, Next is Tuberose then Palo Santo, a Mexican tree, Coffee blossoms, Mushrooms and Precious Woods. The top note is decided freshly green and woody, a hint of tuberose beneath, rising through the smell of mushrooms growing near. It smells like an authentic depiction of being in a rainforest. Any rawness in some of the top notes mellows as this dries and on my skin I'm left with the fresh, woody smell of tropic outdoors.Camino de Azahar WomanI can't identify the odd citric, fruity and floral notes here, and the overall bland effect doesn't inspire me to keep sniffing until I do. Camino de Azahar Oro WomanThe website calls the notes: Vanilla-like, Anisic, Creamy with a Citrus Zest. This scent does have an unusual feel, a hint of dark, sweet fruit. As advertised, it is creamy. It has a dark syrupiness as it dries. It's interesting, but for me not beautiful.Celestial Violet ManPungent on first sniff but not in a lovely way, to me. At least it's not a scent envelope to which western noses are accustomed. In its strong, earthy dry down, the unpleasantness fades after a while and becomes intriguing. The image that comes to mind is of a man swathed in costly robes in some faraway land. Worth a try for those who love the unusual.Celestial Violet WomanHere the top note is less pungent, but still not especially lovely—somewhat like dung, to tell the truth. I can't see many westerners waiting for the drydown. It's a complex, interesting scent I'd try but for the dung, which must be contributed by Hyraceum. I have a sample of it here and it alone isn't all that offensive. Well, I guess it is. It's the rock-like feces and urine of the Cape hyrax, which looks like a cross between a rabbit and a wolf. I can imagine florals prettying it up but in this case, not for a good while. For the brave of heart, this scent IS deeply carnal and even hypnotic in the dry down—a scent experience not easily had.

...Final installment, from Morris's The Vault Parfums.AseaThe name says it all, thank goodness, because I can't find notes anywhere—perhaps freesia and iris or magnolia and marine notes? In any case we are at sea and perhaps there are whales because there could be a little ambergris. I don't see it still offered on the website so on to the next… Dark SeasonOn a quick advance sniff through this group, only Dark Season closed my eyes. Its star is the luxurious oakmoss/labdanum combo which make this a near-chypre. Intead of bergamot and amber though, vanilla, cinnamon and myrrh introduce a gourmand feel and the woods (patchouli and fir) make the whole thing thrum. Winter is the dark season, especially in Nordic countries, and this is a winter forest, inspired by a walk on a "cold night, Finnish fir trees, warm fires burning on distant hearths" … and warm mugs waiting inside. This is a richly beautiful and narcotic scent.FetishNow to Fetish, a review of which introduced me to Neil Morris Fragrances. Bearing in mind that they are all accomplished, loving or not loving any specific Morris fragrance is only a matter of personal preference. I don't consider any of them flawed. However, this very interesting fragrance is a no-go for me. I wouldn't wear it, but I'm holding onto my sample because I like smelling it. Ambergris-leather-oud-musk announce serious funk, to which patchouli, rosewood and myrrh add resinous, woody beauty. There's benzoin and I always forget what that smells like. Reaching for perfumery notes kit … oh, right medicinal, like a kind of resinous iodine. All I can say is that, though a number of scents now range along my arms, Fetish took over the atmosphere. I could get addicted to it, like a kid sniffing something under the sink in hopes of getting high. That's why I'll keep it handy, but not wear it. Full disclosure: hubby, irreverent jokester that he is, said, "If your feet don't smell like feet, spray this on them." Guess he's solidly in the not-in-love-with-Fetish camp. I'm in the Fetish DMZ.Midnight TrystVery funky indeed, due to its animalic base sporting not only castoreum, but civet and musk. The floral heart isn't helping as much as I'd hoped because narcissus (in its swampy guise) dominates gardenia, magnolia and rose. The top of sweet spice adds interest, but for me not beauty. Later in the drydown a dark beauty does arise. If you love Fetish, try this, too. I prefer his glorious Summer of Love.The Neil Morris website says his fragrances are inspired by memories and intended to evoke emotion. They certainly do. Discovering his artistry has been a joy. Off to put things in my Neil Morris cart and get more samples.

...Now to the accomplished rest of the Signature Collection …ClearAnother outdoorsy scent, based on the memory of a bicycle ride, per the website. The grapefruit and linden blossom top note with resin/mint center do evoke clear days beneath these trees. For me it's Lake Geneva where I rushed to and from meetings under the Linden trees. This is an open, clean scent. I'd say it's refreshing, but for the musk and cedar base which makes it deeper—more tree, less air.CoralPer the website, this interesting fruity-floral is Laguna Beach and with the rose, pomegranate and fig, the woody, musky, resinous base, I can picture sand and flowers. It feels like a sultrier version of Lalique's Amethyst, one of my faves.GothamAn October night in New York, evoked by black pepper and quirky yuzu in the top, narcissus and rose in the heart and a fabulous base, all resin and animal and leather. For me it's a standout, a smell experience I want for myself or hubby.StormTo experience this scent, you either have to try this perfume or get caught in an actual thunderstorm. I recommend the former because it's more beautiful. Papaya and lime in the top are followed by dark flowers then a complex base of tonka, musk, earth and marine notes. It's not a loud perfume, but one that will leave you feeling part of the natural world.ZephyrA very pleasing mix of tropic fruit/citrus top; honeysuckle, lily and white tea heart with amber, musk and sandalwood in the base. Inspired by the memory of a soft breeze on a hot day, Zephyr is a fragrant, fruity delight.Though they occupy opposite poles of the scent spectrum, Zephyr and Gotham are my favorites of this group, which concludes the Signature Collection.Next installment, four from Morris's The Vault Parfums.

...So happy to discover this niche purveyor of high quality scents, who is also a member here. An appreciative nod to him as I sniff my way through his Signature Collection Parfums, and a few additions.First, to those who haven't tried them, these are artfully-composed perfumes that will not cause sneezing, asphyxiation, or make your eyes water unless you happen to be allergic to a specific ingredient. Like great perfumes, they project and last. This line also has a personality. Think earthy, resinous base notes, haunting floral absolutes, and unexpected replications of natural phenomena, like rain. Though, to my nose, Neil Morris fragrances are unique, together they bring Slumberhouse to mind. I plan to own every Slumberhouse ever made, whether or not I can personally wear them. I thnk they are that incredible — scent experiences not to be missed. How do Neil's compare? Very well indeed, displaying an equal artistry—genius at work at the perfume organ with a little of D.S. & Durga's regional flair. To me, some are an acquired taste, like several from Slumberhouse, yet I don't just admire the ones of Neil's I like, I adore them. IMO, only the last two Slumberhouses are very wearable, particularly the spectacular New Sibet. Of the 7 Neil Morris's I've sampled, three I have to own immediately, if not sooner. I'll start with them and hubby's favorite, Aegean.AegeanIf the Aegean doesn't smell like this, it ought to—citrus, sandalwood, musk, lavender combine with quince and basil blossom to evoke the fresh outdoors when at seaside. Getting it for hubby's birthdayAfireThis made me forget about my yearning for Mary Greenwell's completely unavailable (TMK) Fire. Unsuccessfully I searched for it, hoping it would be similar to nearly unavailable (and, IMO, stunning) Amouage Tribute Attar. Hard to explain why my brain has made connections between these three. Apparently they only share Frankincense for sure, possibly some citruses and woods. Yet when I sniff from my dwindling sample of Tribute and my newly-arrived one of Afire, I no longer mourn the loss of Tribute as much.Aptly named, Afire starts out like a house afire, smoldering up my nose and into the surrounding air—taking possession of the olfactory space as if a few Las Vegas showgirls, eating cotton candy, just rode in on the backs of lions. What a fragrance! I lost my mind immediately, just as I recently did over Bogue's achievement, Gardelia. Somehow to my brain the caramel/berry heart of Afire mimics Tribute's intense floral/leathery appeal. They're not the same, of course, but for me these two have the same effect — an exuberant desire to apply them unstintingly. RainflowerFreesia ups the ante on this marvelous floral, grounded in musk. Caught in the rain in a field of flowers, my feet muddy, seeking shelter from approaching lightening, this is what I'd expect to smell. It is a must-have, earthily sweet, joyful fragrance.Summer of loveMoaning began at first sniff of this animalic scent, civilized by Freesia, Patchouli and Cedar and I am back in a long-ago garden pool, a bee landing on the palm of my hand but not stinging. Trois Gymnopedie No. 1 is playing from the house and I think I will l never forget this garden, the deep purple of the pool, these flowers — and I never do. This fragrance is likely to take you back to your own summer of love, or conjure one for you. I find it brilliant—sensuous, passionate, and not remotely crass.Kudos to Neil Morris. I expect to find more loves among his creations.To be continued …

...Good question, Anessa. Here's her page addressing that. What do you think?

...Dear Perfume EnthusiastsIt is my duty to report a murder for which an investigation is underway. At exactly 9:54 am on May 27, the dead body of MadBudgeter was found, a calculator gripped in one hand and from the cold, dead fingers of her other hand, a trail of perfume was detected. It wound its way inexorably up to ScentFan's desk, where a bottle of Gardelia reigns, unashamedly. Who could have done this delightful (excuse me, dastardly) deed? What's more, other darlings (accomplices) swiftly joined the haughty queen…Louis Vuittons, both Kais, aroma Ms. Will the wonders (transgressions) never cease? Searching the premises for clues, we learn the body disappeared; no trace of MadBudgeter is left. Outside a window we see the shadowy figure of ScentSir (ScentFan's hubby), bending suspiciously over a shovel. Oh well, c'est la vie.On to the final beauty contest. How compare 14 scents? Oh wait. Now it's 16. carefully, of course. ScentFan identifies the spots. 1) back of hand 2) thumb bottom 3) back of wrist 4) down two inches 6) down another two 7) inside wrist 8) down a final two inches. A daunting program, yes, requiring both nasal stamina and whiff acuity.Feeling up to the task, she begins.*Camelia by aroma M - Lovely and light. Gardenia nestles agreeably among the other florals.Dali Wild - Still a favorite with its quirky yuzu*Gardelia by Bogue - Gardenia takes a minute to develop but when it does, it's haunting*Gardenia by Chanel - a pretty gardeniaGardenia by Robert Piguet - a sweet, spicy gardenia in comparison to the others because of the vanilla heart and "spiced woods" in the base.Gardénia Passion by Annick Goutal - another odd one comparable to Dali Wild in quirkiness. Must be the tuberose and oakmoss in the base.Gardénia Pétale by Van Cleef & Arpels - It's quite light in comparison with the others*Japanese Spring Woman by NadiaZ - This is a more substantial scent that I like very much. Without being offensive, resin (African myrrh) and an animalic (Hyraceum) add depth to which the florals (gardenial and hyacinth) stand up.That does it for my left arm and the first half. Will take a break and resniff. Okay, after further consideration, I would personally wear again only the four marked with an asterisk. 
The others are interesting but not compelling, IMO.Right arm: *Jardenia by JAR - Well, you know, it has a little of the quirkiness of Dali Wild, but far more lovelinesss. Next time I'm in New York I'm going to Bergdorf's to find out if they still sell it. A standout. By the way, I've been sniffing my perfumery notes kit and so far my guess is that Jardenia probably has osthmanthus, petitgrain and opoponax in it, the latter being the "blue cheese" note.*Jungle Gardenia by Tuvache - Never did a right hand smell so lovely. *Kai by Gaye Straza - Well, Kai holds its own even among these luminaries. It's more — what? — aquatic maybe, but it's great.Tuberose Gardenia by Estee Lauder - This strong Turberose and Gardenia mix is really lovely.Un Matin d'Orage by Annick Goutal - It's okay on resniff, but in comparison with the others it's not a strong gardenia note.Velvel Gardenia by Tom Ford - Not impressive compared with the rest.Very Hollywood by Michael Kors - Really like its fresh, fruity appeal. Raspberry is stronger than the gardenia note though.Voulez-vous coucher avec Moi by Kilian - There ought to be a law, but since there isn't we get to enjoy this sexy fragrance. It has Petalia, a synthetic floral, but all else must be natural or of high quality because this doesn't bother my nose.So, joining the stars—Gardelia, Jardenia and Jungle Gardenia — if at a slightly lesser level, are Camellia by aroma M, Gardenia by Chanel, Japanese Spring Woman by Nadia Z, and Kai. Hmmm, a bottle of Japanese Spring Woman goes for in excess of $7k.[Do I see a figure appear outside, shovel in hand, vigorously digging up MadBudgeter? Can't have that. There's a 1.8 ml roll-on for $40. Better go tell him.]Hope you enjoyed the sniff fest.

...Oops, missed multiple replies. Thanks for them. I'll try the Delacourte line again in case they fare better when the climate's warm.

...I would, Briarthorn, but I physically can't tolerate them enough to detect anything and write a review. One sniff, and I'm anosmic.Briarthorn:I think a review of this line would be very helpful. I follow a few people who seem to have the same kind of nose I do and I always appreciate it when they put out how they perceived different things. It helps me to know what pitfalls I may find in a particular line. I'm sure you have similar followers. I would just suggest that you try to keep the review more focused on the particulars and specifics of what you don't like (ie. synthetic overtones, or sharp notes etc.) and avoid the bashing of the scents generally.

...Yes, I did, Cryptic. I was going to the unfolding of the new line, had my ticket in hand, and actually boarded the flight when I suddenly felt terribly ill and had to get off. My bag made it to France without me. I've been tempted to write a blog entitled: "How I missed a Genius, a Prince and a Soirée in Versailles." Now I'll have to wait until they go on sale in November, I think it is.Cryptic:What a shame, ScentFan. I was hoping this line would be a runaway success, prompting SD to leave Guerlain forever, but I fear it will suffer the same fate as Tom Ford's white musk line.Have you heard any news about Jean-Paul Guerlain's exclusive line? It was all over the perfume blogs last year but I haven't seen any mentions recently.

...Samples came so here's another quick one.Louis Vuitton, you may have entranced me yesterday, but today it's Maria McElroy's artisanal perfume aroma M.CamelliaThis beauty is what made me order the aroma M complete sample pack. It's a feast of florals riding on a restrained and haunting Frankincense.Geisha BlancheSpectacular rendering of Hyacinth, Jasmine, Lychee and Ylang ylang. Hyacinth is a fabulous counterpoint for the other notes, bringing out the best of them all. This is equally fresh, fruity and luxurious. Something makes my nose twitch a little, but since I'm still breathing I don't care.Geisha Vanilla HinokiAn agreeable composition, but one I wouldn't return to. It's beautiful, but doesn't quite rise above the ordinary and has something that makes my nose twitch. Perhaps the clove.Geisha VioletUm, no. For me the chocolate doesn't work with the florals since there's nothing else to provide balance and create depth.Geisha Hana-ChaAn interesting solo rendering of Bergamot and Jasmine, allowing these legendary notes to shine rather than blend into an orchestra. Geisha RougeA quite beautiful spicy perfume--clove, cinnamon and star anise turned gorgeous by sandalwood, tobacco and vanilla. If you like spice, this is a great one.Geisha NoireYummm. Sandalwood, amber and vanilla. Appealing depth.Geisha Nobara-ChaSimplicity itself in an earthy rose, possibly the centifolia.Geisha O-ChaNot much smell coming up from this green tea and clary sage concoction with orange, rosewood and vanilla. I think the latter three swamp the first two, to the glory of none.Geisha BlueI wouldn't have thought green leaves and green tea could smell so good. Must be the Jasmine, with honey and chamomile. This is a mildly hypnotic, delightful scent.Geisha GreenA very lovely and definite absinth supported by amber, mandarin, black currant, tonka and violet.Geisha MarronA lovely citrus-floral.Geisha PinkIt smells like a fabulous citrus wafting up the nose; turns out to be orange, sugared plum and vanilla. The plum begins to resemble mothballs as it dries.Voluptuous NostalgiaI really like this one. It has my favorite animalic, ambergris,, intoxicating florals, tonka and amber.Having smelled them all, I realize there is something else in several, an aldehyde perhaps. In general these are restrained and elegant perfumes. Must haves for me: Camellia, Geisha Blanche, Blue, and Green.

...Having obtained a small collection of NadiaZ samples today, I dove right into them. First, who is NadiaZ? Located in Switzerland, she's the artisanal perfumer who posted a blog here recently. In fact, I think it's still on the front page. She's also a lady on a passionate mission -- to create perfume as art, sourced from indigenous harvesters of rare plants around the world, thereby preserving both people and plants. NadiaZ. Her marketing approach is equally unique. In order to suggest which of her unusual perfumes might work best for you, she will want to know you--your age, gender, ethnicity, among other things--the latter on the theory that different racial skin types react differently to particular ingredients, a theory I hadn't heard . Not sure it's right, though, since my favorite among the group so far is Japanese Spring Woman and I'm not Japanese.Because of the rare and precious materials, the NadiaZ line is expensive, a full bottle running well into the thousands. Glass mini roll-ons are available for about $40 and sample card vials for $20.Is an FB worth it? Maybe.The first thing to know is that these perfumes must develop on the skin. In exactly the opposite fashion to the new Louis Vuitons that sweep one instantly and thrillingly off one's feet, the NadiaZ top notes can be a challenge. Hubby sniffed Magnolia Night Ode to Gobi |Unisex and was so repulsed by the odd vegetal/musky top note that he said he never wanted to smell it again. Two hours later, the scent is entirely inoffensive, resting on the back of my hand like a fine kid glove. So don't look for hypnotic top notes, though Japanese Spring Woman was a dream from the start. Simple and lovely, it belongs in my gardenia sniff fest. Also, the wonderful Camino de Azahar Woman and the green and resinous Symphone de Cologne Opus|Unisex are both purring on my skin, especially the former, so I'll wear each of the samples I received and report.At this point I can say that exploring NadiaZ perfumes is a worthwhile challenge, especially since some of her ingredients may never be available again. Just be sure to have your ancestry ready, because she will want to know. I suppose it's possible there's some connection she's figured out because she's smart, having invented perfumery techniques of her own. We discussed IQ. Turns out she's got a big one. Me, too.

...Gaye StrazaKaiWhat do Mary J. Blige, Cate Blanchett, Khloe Kardashian and Cher have in common? Their names are listed on the Kai website's page of "devotees" along with 78 other celebrities who adore this scent that Gaye Straza developed for herself in the 1990's, working with a boutique perfume house. Later she sold it in her Malibu boutique before developing a full line of Kai-scented beauty products. From the website I gather the primary note is gardenia, wrapped in jasmine and exotics like plumeria and pikake that grow all over the Hawaiian islands where Gaye grew up. Soon after applying it, I understand the page of devotees. This is a light and beautiful floral that doesn't vanish into the skin. Even if you're not a celebrity, you might turn heads wearing it. It's captivating in spite of becoming a little soapy as it dries. It certainly belongs in the gardenia beauty contest.

...Thanks, Don.DonVanVliet:Hmm something wrong here .. we're checking that, sorry

...I am glad something coherent came across in my excitement, Anessa. Not to worry. In Cabotine, I see you have one of the greats.Anessa:Oh dear, you make me want to sell my china and grand piano too (kidding! Especially the latter part!)You make each of them sound gorgeous, what an agony of having tasted (in this case, second-hand via your great description) something I can't obtain. My 'fashion' sense was never developed enough to appreciate the LV design, but I am sure their perfumes would appeal by far stronger to me.Thank you for the wonderful read of the lineup in a nutshell, ScentFan!

...Here's a quick oneIn 1837 Louis Vuitton decided he wanted to make trunks, which brings us to 2016, when the house decided to launch a new perfume line, its first since 1930. Instead of buying the miniature collection ($290) of Les Parfums Louis Vuitton, or going to their luxe store at the Galleria here,I sent for samples from The Perfumed Court and get to test them in the comfort of my home. Here goes: ApogeeGood gracious. A quality woody-floral, starring Lily-of-the-valley. Also Jasmine, Magnolia, May rose supported by musk, Gaiac wood and Sandalwood. Now these are folks who know what to do with a flower. Who is this designer? Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, born in Grasse, son and grandson of perfumers, worked at factories in Grasse from age 10. We are in excellent hands. Contre MoiAgainst MeOMG! Amazing. Tahitian vanila, Madagascan vanilla, orange blossom, rose centifolia, magnolia, cocoa and ambrette seed. Faaabulous! If the notes appeal, you can safely buy it blind. Dans Le PeauIn the skinOMG! Leather, two Jasmines, Apricot, Narcissus in its magnificence. If the notes appeal, buy blind. Matiére NoireBlack matterOoooh! Divine! I kid you not! A dark, oudy, black curranty joy of Narcissus, Jasmine and Patchouli.Mille Feux(Thousand Fires)Picture yourself on a train platform, standing beside your Louis Vuitton. What do passersby smell? Beauty! Rose des Vents(Compass)A rose to make you weep! Beauty! Beauty! The Centifolia, Turkish and Bulgarian with iris and cedar.TurbulencesBeauty in tuberose, also jasmine, magnolia, may rose and leather. We've experienced these notes a thousand times but rarely, if ever, like this.This collection is a Tour de Force. Louis Vuitton, maker of quality things, decided to hire a gifted designer, hand him the best materials and set him free. The result is beyond WOW. Okay, okay, what am I going to do? Perhaps I can sell the china? Just kidding, just kidding. (Gotta stop these sniff fests.)All I can say is my arms smell like wonder where I dabbed these glories on — every single last one of them a star.

...Tauer PerfumesSotto la Luna - Gardenia Like M. Micallef, Tauer is another house I've never been able to warm to because of a disturbing something in all its designs that closes my nose. No success in analyzing this perfume because of the inability to breathe while smelling it.Tom FordVelvet GardeniaI love the citric note (orange) that immediately wafts up from this inviting Tom Ford. Beeswax and honey in the base add yumminess while Labdanum sweeps me off my feet. This is a quirky gardenia that a gal could do far worse then be round wearing. A fave in this group. Van Cleef & ArpelsCollection Extraordinaire - Gardénia PétaleThis is a simply entrancing Gardenia, unspecified green and citric notes in the top, Jasmine and Lily-of-the-valley in the bottom. I shouldn't be surprised. VC&A's First is one of the great perfumes of all time, IMO. I could sniff this Gardenia all day. Another fave in the group.Yves RocherPur Désir de GardeniaI couldn't find this beauty except as a cream/paste. According to Perfume Intelligence, it was released in 2003 and the company, "established by Yves Rocher; in 1959 - basing its growth on the idea of 'beauty from plants' and selling by mail order ." Their website advertises: "our products take care of your skin, and the planet." Never tried them. Just ordered a few samples. Bottom line: does this appealing scent rival the Gardenia greats? It once may have, but it's really hard to tell from this paste alone.Except for Kai, arriving Monday, this is all the gardenias I have. Well, there's Bohemian Black by House of Matriarch with its Colombian gardenia and Tahitian tiaré, but to me they are overpowered by the fantastic rest.So other than Kai, which I suspect will be a fave, next up is a beauty contest of what, to me, are the 14 Gardenia babes from this sniff fest.Camelia by aroma MDali Wild by Salvador DaliGardelia by BogueGardénia by ChanelGardenia by Robert PiquetGardénia Passion by Annick GoutalGardénia Pétale by Van Cleef & ArpelsJardenia by JARJungle Gardenia by TuvacheTuberose Gardenia by Estee LauderUn Matin d'Orage by Annick GoutalVelvel Gardenia by Tom FordVery Hollywood by Michael KorsVoulez-vous coucher avec Moi by KilianResniffing them is going to be like having a gourmet dinner.

...Roja ParfumsGardenia (2016) (Parfum)Another misstep by a master, IMO. Roja Dove created the greatest perfume I've smelled to date, a perfume called Roja and/or (Haute Luxe). $3,500 for 100 ml, if you please. I swung for the £190 Discovery Atomizer on his site. To this scent I bow (though of course I can't wait to put Gardelia or Jardenia on one hand and Haute Luxe on the other to see if the king still reigns). For now, genuflecting briefly to Haute Luxe prior to retesting Gardenia. Dear Roja, surely you were temporarily anosmic from a cold. Or perhaps it's me and my knee-jerk reaction to the wicked stepsisters if badly managed (hyacinth, lily of the valley, narcissus). Nope, they're not in the listed notes, which of course doesn't mean they're not in the perfume. To me, this Gardenia doesn't smell like gardenia (maybe flowers in the swamp) or like anything I want to wear. The notes sound great, but they just don't come out lovely. OTOH, those who prefer a little shifting dankness in their florals might like this.ScandalOverlooked this one. With a Bergamot top, rose, freesia and big white florals in the heart, this fragrance is in the mold of the orientals, missing only amber in the base. Iris, musk and Sandalwood do the job though, making Scandal a classic swooner in which Gardenia holds its own.Salvador DaliDali Wild I either did a Dali sniff fest once, or bought and smelled everything from this label, they're so affordable now. The initial spray produces a fresh and refreshing mist that puts my nose in gobble mode. Have to go to my perfumery kit to remind myself what Yuzu smells like and what in the world is Okoumé? Looking it up. Oh, it's a wood, known to cause respiratory irritation. Not in me. It's joined in the bottom by mahogany and zebrano wood (zebra wood). Hubby's made lovely things out of it, including an exquisite Bible stand, commissioned by a friend. And Yuzu? Sniffing. Oh, yes, it's that sharp and slightly camphorous citrus from Japan/Korea. Combined with a faint gardenia and tuberose in the top, it's delightful. With a heart of indoles and musk, Dali Wild is a winner. Gotta wear it more.Serge LutensUne voix noire Hands fold before the Serge, almost any Serge. I adore them and him. With notes of only Gardenia, rum and tobacco, I expect a splendid assault. Here goes: well, Gardenia's hanging in there against the other two. This must be his tribute to Billie Holliday. Of course, it's named A Black Voice. This is a heck of a bold, dark perfume, really, just right for a jazz bar and Paris is full of them. Of these, I like Dali Wild the most.To be continued...

...One more group for today:PuredistanceOparduIt's been a while since I tried this one and the first time I was underwhelmed. Like children in the old days, though, maybe novice noses shouldn't be allowed to speak? Sniffing. Okay, I was right. My nose detects an undercurrent of gasoline from whatever aromechical(s) this perfume uses. The notes list mentions a bunch of florals, heliotrope and cedarwood, but the black gaseous ooze from dinosaurs is in there somewhere too. Gasp.Ramón MonegalCotton MuskFirst, before I sniff this one, let me grab a small cloth and put it on the floor so I'll be ready to kneel in worship should the need arise. (Just kidding). Ramón Monegal, as you might know, had more or less resurrected his family's perfume business, Myrugia, which once scented the Spanish throne (well, those who sat on it). Now from his own house he is walking on perfumed water. His "Kiss My Name" transports me whenever I wear it. His Agar Musk does the same when I smell it on my husband. Cotton Musk? Let's see. Okay, for me it's a tad too odd for worship. Nothing really coalesces, but it's nice to be able to breathe again as I sniff. I do suspect this fragrance might incorporate a higher grade of dinosaur ooze, too, just a tad. Think about it, does the idea of cotton and musk really work? I forgive you, Ramón Monegal. You made Kiss My Name.Robert PiguetGardeniaAt last. A bright and lovely top note, something beautiful closing my eyes from the heart. What's in this dream? Per our database—Top: Gardenia, lily, Ylang-ylang. Middle: vanilla (that's all). Base: Black leather, cashmeran, spiced woods. Swoon, swoon, swoon! Where's that prayer rug? The Piguet is easily my favorite in this group. [Hubby just smelled it and says on a gauge from church lady to wild child, this is a quarter tank. I think that means he likes it]

...MemoIlha do MelI remember first smelling this at a perfume counter, liking it, then realizing I had no need to buy it because I already had outstanding white florals, particularly Ramon Monegal's "Kiss My Name". With Mandarin, Juniper and Hyacinth, Memo's top creates an off-beat gateway to the garden of white florals. Vetiver in the vanilla/musk base keeps things from being as sweet as they might. Gardenia isn''t a star here but it's detectable. A nice scent for those who want a non-standard white floral. It's a little spicey though.Michael KorsVery HollywoodI usually like much of what Michael Kors produces and this fresh, fruity scent is no exception. While not as alluring as my go-to fruity floral, Amethyst by Lalique, this is a quality scent, well-blended and appealing in spite of its fanciful name.Parfumerie GénéraleGardenia Grand SoirThis is a decidedly green perfume with the gardenia not appealing enough to overcome the sense of being in a not very flowery field. Unlike the previous perfume these notes don't feel all that natural, either, though I can still breathe while smelling it. It settles better than it begins.Penhaligon'sGardenia Penhaligon hasn't worked for me so far, and this one is no exception. Unlike the preceding three, something stuffy wafts up through the appealing sounding notes and cuts off my oxygen. No more sniffing for a while.Very Hollywood is my favorite of this group. More to come.

...Kim KardashianKim Kardashian The first note is sweet, almost candy-like. The synthetics in it are noticeable enough I wouldn't wear it, even if I liked sugar sweet fragrances. Like Gardez-Moi the beauty halts midway—not stifling, but not allowing a deep breath, either.LubinL de Lubin (Eau de Toilette)Apparently I have a reformulation. It's reasonably well done, but nothing to cause a perfumista to open her purse when greater scents exist. Gardenia is detectable throughout but not vividly so.M. MicallefGardenia / N°41For me, there's always been something off-putting in M. Micallef perfumes, a sharp note that disturbs rather than seduces the nose. It makes me not want to linger long for analysis. It's not that it closes my nostrils, but more that it overpowers. Marc JacobsMarc Jacobs Ah, air. At least more of it, or maybe it's that appealing aquatic note. This softy beauty flies up my nose, letting me enjoy its fresh florals, woods, musk and a detectable gardenia. Of this group, it's my fave.Further About Bogue GardeliaMadBudgeter: Unexpected checks arrive in the mail? Interesting. Not $950 worth, but is this a sign?Hubby (later smiling rather than casting thunderbolts): You bought it didn't you.Me, evasive: What makes you say that?Hubby: I can tell. Do you want me to contribute?MadBudgeter: No, I'll just eat frozen meals for a while.Hubby: I just sent you some money, now when does it arrive?Me: I'm waiting for the order confirmation. Next morning: Back to cart to check. It's still there?? Shrieek! (MadBudgeter, how could you deceive my finger into thinking it had hit submit!) Me: Submit!Author: Thus goes the story of a passionate purchase by one woman in one town, on a blue planet in space. Managing eagerness for its arrival, said woman douses herself in the previously purchased mossy animalic floral bliss of Bogue's Maai.