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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   30.01.2015 | Miscellaneous

Correlations between perfume and shoes

...Traditionally, you are supposed to have just one signature scent but a wardrobe full of shoes. For me, it is the opposite. I buy the same shoe model since many years but I own hundreds of perfumes!Should I call it my signature shoe? :)
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   29.01.2015 | Miscellaneous

Which fragrance is a Hype-king or Overhyped?

...Tar: The house that can not get enough attention in my eyes is Fueguia 1833.I would love to test these. Hope I will have the chance eventually.
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   29.01.2015 | Miscellaneous

Which fragrance is a Hype-king or Overhyped?

...Overhyped are:- Bond No.9Nice fragrances, nice flacons but the price tags aren't nice.- CreedExtremely boring gents' colognes with few exceptions. They discontinued their more interesting perfumes: "Orange Spice", "Vétiver"Maybe you can regard Guerlain as a hype king who deserves to be one. Especially the perfumes created by Jean-Paul Guerlain are top of the top. General rule: never pay more for a perfume than what Guerlain asks for their exclusive lines. You won't get any better!
Kenzo pour Homme (Eau de Toilette) - Kenzo
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   28.01.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

The third Kenzo...

...I have no idea about different boxes for vintage Kenzo pour Homme, but I agree that it's a pity that the old elaborate glass flacon was replaced by plastic. I still own the glass flacon but not the box. Sorry.
Le Mâle Terrible - Jean Paul Gaultier
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   26.01.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

How good is Le Male Terrible?

...I think most of all Le Mâle and its follow-ups contain an aromachemical compound that has no direct resemblance with any of the notes that you find in the pyramids. For me, the typical Le Mâle scent reminds me a lot of fuel.It would not be healthy to use gasoline as perfume, but I have read that this was popular in the 1920's. Men put a little bit of petrol on their hankerchiefs so the scent would identfy them as car owners.
Geranium pour Monsieur - Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle

Suggestions for a fragrance with geranium?

...Sleuth, do you prefer the night? Do you have a pale complexion and are your canine teeth a little bit longer than usual? Then Washington Tremlett's "Black Tie" is the geranium fragrance for you! ;)

Asafoetida in Perfumery. Discuss?

...The Parfumo search shows 10 perfumes with the fragrance note Asafoetida. Amazing!
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   19.01.2015 | Miscellaneous

What is your "Holy Grail" of perfume?

...I think there is more then one Holy Grail in perfumery.Holy Grails are kept at the Osmothèque at Versailles. There is a report of it by Luca Turin in one of his books since he was allowed to take a sniff of the historical Fougère Royale. But normal perfume enthusiasts like us can only test contemporary fougères and guess what the quintessence of it was like. Personally, I don't think that Houbigant's remake Fougère Royale from 2010 comes particularly close to the original. Fougère was a success story of 19th century perfumery, and a few decades after its launch, many perfume manufacturers had their own Fougère. So, it is a good idea to look for traditional fougères from early 20th century perfumery that are still available.For reference purposes I recommend ordering a small amount of Fougère by Harry Lehmann in Berlin. The manufacture was founded in the 1920's, and they still produce some perfumes according to the traditional formulas. The web site is in German so you might need to use bing or google translator, and it has no shop. Orders are simply accepted via e-mail or phone. Taking Harry Lehmann's Fougère as a role model for the supposed original helped me to explore the world of those fougères that could be called 'classic' in modern perfumery. It helped me discriminate between the general fougère essence and the specific or individual touch of a fougère. The Holy Grail of classic fougères is somewhere in between the following:Fougère by Harry Lehmann,"Sartorial" by Penhaligon's,"1445" by Castle Forbes,"Jacques Zolty""MPH""Fougère Royale (2010)"Some lighter variants are:"Knize Two""1872 for Men"And a vetiver with a classic fougère heart:"Vétiver de Frédéric"

Suggestions for a patchouli-centric fragrance

...I have tested and reviewed "Narcotico" by Meo Fusciuni recently. It is a patchouli-laden fragrance, at least in the top and heart notes. The patchouli is fading a little later on. I think this is good since such a distinctive scent as patchouli can easily get on one's nerves after a while.It might fit for you and is well worth testing, Greysolon.
Le Mâle Terrible - Jean Paul Gaultier
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   18.01.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

How good is Le Male Terrible?

...I see, either I overlooked it or you just added it to your collection :)
Le Mâle Terrible - Jean Paul Gaultier
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   18.01.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

How good is Le Male Terrible?

...Keppy1792, I actually prefer Fleur du Mâle. I think it suits me better. I like the combination of flowery orange blossom with a deep dark accord that reminds me a little bit of tar and gasoline. It is two extremes put together.Because Fleur du Mâle is a bit opulent and strong (just as Le Mâle) I then went for "Fleur du Mâle La Cologne". This version is perfect for me but unfortunately discontinued by now.Every fragrance has its time. Le Mâle once was extremely popular in my country and since it is very recognizable you soon got the feeling that everybody was wearing it. At a certain point, it got linked to a negative clichée of lower class male youths, and that was the point when some people were really put off by it. I think it still sells well, and it is worn by those who really like it and give a damn about what people think.What has happened to Le Mâle happened to "Joop!Homme" a decade earlier. Exactly he same scheme: an opulent and unmistakable fragrance was worn by far too many people, then people got fed up with it and it got a bad image for many years. Unlike Le Mâle, Joop!Homme is getting a revival. You can smell it on some people (not too many) nowadays, and you think: That wasn't that bad after all.I think this will happen to Le Mâle as well but time has not come yet.Have you tested Joop!Homme?
Le Mâle Terrible - Jean Paul Gaultier
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   17.01.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

How good is Le Male Terrible?

Re: How good is Le Male Terrible?
...Keppy1792:I want to be a little different from the crowd and choose Le Male Terrible over the original Le Male. How good and versatile is the juice?I tested Le Mâle Terrible shortly after its launch, and it left me a bit clueless. It is basically Le Mâle but with a variance towards some Eau de Cologne in the top notes, something slightly animalic in the heart and maybe a bit vetiver in the base notes. Besides that it is just slightly different from the original, and I could not find a different concept in that fragrance.I don't think that people who smell it on you will necessarily notice that you are wearing something different from Le Mâle.Good alternatives with a statement of their own to Le Mâle are:"Fleur du Mâle""Collection Impériale - François Charles""Antonio de Curtis""Custo Man"
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   09.01.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

Nobile 1942 perfumes

...Oh yes, Nobile is very recommendable. Pontevecchio for Men is a smoky perfume with some resemblance to Divine's L'Homme Sage.I really like the Cedro Atlas collection from the Alla Corte Del Rei series. It makes such a beautiful gift! They were originally designed as perfumes for teenage boys but this story has been dropped by now. Each package contains 3 x 30 ml perfume in Eau de Cologne strength and an instructive leaflet about the art of perfume. "Cola" is simply gorgeous. It contains more authentic Cola smell than there is taste in that beverage!Sleuth, do they also sell the Cedro Atlas box in the shop you mentioned?
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   07.01.2015 | Miscellaneous

Which were your personal favorites this last year?

...To be honest I seem to get past the curiosity for more new perfumes, and most perfumes I enjoyed last year are the ones I also enjoyed in 2013 and before. Of course, "Chamade Homme", my signature sent.One outstanding 2014 perfume deserves to be mentioned: Montale who started the oud hype years ago with so strong and opulent fragrances like Black Aoud made a U turn with their 2014 releases. I particularly liked Aoud Melody as an example of how a Montale style oud can also do a good job in a rather discreet perfume. Then, we had a new launch from Divine called Spirituelle, a feminine rose fragrance. A new Divine perfume is always a welcome sight, I really apreciate their work! So far for new releases. Among the perfumes I have been wearing with special pleasure were some Fougères: the wonderful Clive Christian "1872 for Men", an early Geza Schön fragrance. Then I also enjoyed "1445" by Castle Forbes.Among the chypres I have finally come to terms with Guerlains "Derby". It took me a few years to like it but now I do. I also went back to Hermès' "Equipage" which is a very spicy approach to chypre.There was one particular gents' cologne by Micallef which I occasionally used: "Royal Vintage". You have to be in a special mood for it. It is very musky, animalic, leathery and presumably lets you look mean the whole day :)Let me also mention a perfume that I would have liked to wear in 2014 but couldn't get it: "L'Or du Verger pour Homme" by Anne-Marie Grallet rsp. Maison de la Mirabeille.Maison de la Mirabeille is a family run business in the Lorraine region in France. They are farmers who specialize in mirabelle plum. Besides jams and eau de vies they have their own cosmetic and perfume line Anne-Marie Grallet. From the shape of the bottle I very much assume that Micallef is the producer behind it. Micallef are quite busy selling little batches of "Private Line" perfumes to small businesses. The private line perfumes I have got to know are all good. Besides that, an official Micallef perfume has been the only fragrance so far where I found the scent of ripe mirabelle plums: Aoud Gourmet!However, they only sell within France. Maybe I make it to their place in 2015?
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   24.12.2014 | Miscellaneous

To be discontinued!

Re: Great idea!
...Scentimental:I have been working on a database of fragrance intro that importantly to me include not just when a Frag was introduced but when was it discontinued as well. Obviously the owners aren't keen on sending out a press release on a discontinuation. There are many sources online that include the intro date but only one or two, that I know of that will include the opposite.What is your opinion?If we know it we could as well include it in our database.
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   21.12.2014 | Miscellaneous

Scents for Smokers

...Personally, I don't smoke, but I like the smell of clean and also perfumed pipe tobacco. And the smell of a good cigar can evoke a homely mood.I wonder if the prohibition of smoking will lead to perfumes that make you smell as if you were a heavy smoker. One of those attempts IMHO were the perfumes of Robbie VanGogh ( a hobby perfumer who sadly discontinued his activities), especially his "Hemp & Leather".One particular, strongly overpriced smoker's perfume is "Intricate" by Boadicea. Actually, it has a very strong smell that has much in common with a cold ash tray. Sillage and longevity are far beyond compare. It is great when you smell it the first time but I find it hardly wearable. Then, I find "Jasmin & Cigarettes" by ELDO well worth trying in this context. When it was launched, I remember it was a kind of reminiscence to the Marlene Dietrich style of female smoker.
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   19.10.2014 | Miscellaneous

Reissues - a New Trend?

...Recently I noticed the re-launch of perfumes, and the press releases stress the point that it is a re-issue of the same fragrance that had been discontinued years earlier. Examples are:- the Helmut Lang series- "Richard James Savile Row"We all know that once in a while houses change the formula of a perfume for various reasons and then launch it again, maybe with a different packaging. We all have experiences with reformulations and generally, we are not pleased if this happens to a fragrance. I wonder if these and any other re-releases are indeed the same as the vintage perfume. Or is this just another fad to place reformulations?It is up to us to test these and other re-issued fragrances and find out.Please share your experiences and opinions here, with the two mentioned and any other reissues.


...I don't really have an idea how Hawthorn smells.Can anybody explain please?
Le Mâle (Eau de Toilette) - Jean Paul Gaultier
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   15.10.2014 | Perfumes & Brands

Le Mâle too chawy?

...Anahata:It is vulgar nowadays for two reasons:It was good and outstanding in the past, building popularity.It has lost quality with repeated reformulations.In this case I wouldn't blame it on reformulations. At least in my country it became unpopular when it started to attract rather unpopular people :)
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   04.10.2014 | Perfumes & Brands

Dsquared² fragrances

..."Potion" is a very interesting fragrance. I find it actually more aromatic than woody. It shares a certain aromatic and hard to decribe note with few other fragrances where it is dominant: "Le Vetiver - Itasca" by Lubin, "Mister" by Jasper Conran, and "King Solomon" by Kings and Queens.In some other cases, it is combined with the well-known Terre D'Hermès note: in Micallef's "Jewel for Him", together with Patchouli. I also got the impression that it might play a very small role in the base notes of "L'Homme Ideal".This particular note is alcoholic, slightly "boozy", maybe also green-woody. But it does not smell like anything we know from daily life and so you at least have to smell it once to know what it is about.If I compare "Potion" with Lubin's Itasca, I have to say that Potion might share that slightly rough and not so pleasant amber note that we find in so many mid-priced perfumes. Lubin's Itasca is not so miuch more expensive, and you don't have to compromise on the quality. If you like Potion, try Itasca if you can find it.
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