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Ambroxan bomb

...I think that Ambroxan is very present in Agar Musk by Ramón Monegal. This is a very tart fragrance and probably not for everybody.A highly recommendable alternative to Sauvage is Bottega Veneta pour Homme Eau de Toilette.It may not have Ambroxan listed but I think it follows the same approach and style.
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   11.10.2015 | Miscellaneous

What makes a perfume more suitable for young people?

...I do not agree any longer with the statement that perfume is not gender- or age-related. Even though the perfume industry does not explicitely say who a new perfume is aimed at, they are well aware of their targeted audience.Sense of smell and sense of taste are closely related to each other, and both seem to change during a person's life. Most children and teenagers have a sweet tooth. A teenager can feed upon a huge amount of jelly bellies that the same person would find nauseating some years later. Ask a teacher about the pupil's perfumes and you might hear him or her ranting about perfume sweets like Joop! Homme, One Million, Le Mâle and their cheaper copies (usually overapplied).
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   25.09.2015 | Parfumo Research

New Perfume Company

...Dorothy, it is easier for the team if you add all perfumes of the respective brand that are still missing.One proposal for each fragrance is needed.
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Weekly Scent Discussion #14: Strange notes, just a gimick?

...The strangest note we have in the database is maybe the Eel-infected sea water in a Violette Market perfume ("Nagini's Curse").But if you a are looking for strange notes you just need to scan through the Comme des Garçons fragrances. They deliberately make fragrances with synthetic smelling scent notes. I can confirm that the smell of Dusty light bulb is indeed in "Odeur 71".And while numerous perfumes imitate leather, they have "Series 6 Synthetic: Skai". Skai is an artificial leather substitute or imitation with a strage chemical smell.
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   23.06.2015 | Miscellaneous

Weekly Scent Discussion #13: No work, what are you wearing?

...Great idea!Here is my no-office list:Monday: "Jasmin Rouge" by Tom FordTuesday: "Oudh Ma'al Wardh" by Al HaramainWednesday: "Tabac Original (After Shave)" by Mäurer & WirtzThursday: "Fleur du Mâle" by JPGFriday: "Joop! Homme"Saturday: "Cuir Venenum No.03" by Parfumerie GénéraleSunday: "Korrigan" by Lubin
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   04.06.2015 | Miscellaneous

Oud oil samples available at Oudh.co uk

...ScentedSalon: Have you tried Cartier's Oud and Oud? Though Western, I feel that there is real oud in it.No, I haven't.There are numerous oud perfumes around that user the synthetic oud blends as offered by IFF, Givaudan and others.There are only some very rare cases of high-priced oud perfumes by Western houses where they seem to use natural oil instead of substitutes. I would say that Xerjoffs "Oud Stars - Zafar" could be counted in. My impression of Zafar was that some good quality oud oil was stretched by other woody notes. Given the high price tag I think one can get better value for the money elsewhere.Since you describe Cartier's "Les Heures Voyageuses - Oud & Oud" as having a barnyard smell it might very well contain natural oud oil. Actually many perfume lovers dislike natural oud perfume when they find out that it has a fecal aspect.I suppose the Cartier Ouds are aimed at the Arab market and will stay extremely niche in the Western world.BTW, if you prefer (natural) oud as a spray instead of oil, the Dubai based brand Ajmal has good and reasonably priced offers. I can recommend their "Dahn Oudh Al Shams". I wear it quite often.
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   04.06.2015 | Miscellaneous

Oud oil samples available at Oudh.co uk

...I'd like to draw your attention to an offer that I received via mail today:Oudh.co.uk is offering a sample pack of drops of 3 different oud oils for 20 £. It is one of the rare occasions to get to know natural oud oil without having to spend lots of money.Some years ago, I ordered a sample pack from this site and I was very satisfied with it. It gave me the opportunity to find out about the "real thing" and get an understanding that oud oils can considerably differ from each other.http://www.oudh.co.uk/en/perfume-samples/pure-oud-samples/newly-arrived-pure-oudh-sample-pack
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Miller Harris - worth buying blindly?

...I have tested a few but so far none of their perfumes made it into my collection. The MH perfumes are high quality niche perfumes but like most you should try before you buy
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   25.05.2015 | Miscellaneous

Simple pleasures - Perfumed body wash

Beware of perfumed body wash!
...To be honest, I prefer soaps and body washs that are not strongly scented. I don't want them to interfere with the perfume that I will be wearing.It is quite difficult to find products that aren't scented at all, so I go for somethimg that smells nicely, is discreet and without lots of longevity. I feel very much at home with Speick.
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Weekly Scent Discussion #9: How do you love your rose?

[email protected] BriarthornIf you like a honey touch I guess some of the Micallef Ouds would be for you: Aoud, Aoud Gourmet and Night Aoud. There is also a "Rose Oud". Their "Arabian Diamond", however, resembles the classic rose/oud combo. Personally I don't have a special favour for honey so it all depends on the perfume if I like it or not.And their "Rose Extrême" gets the price fpr the most splendid perfume bottle, with Svarovski stones covered all aver the sides!I remember the Saffron in Aoud Safran was less noticeable than expected. I get more saffron from Micallefs "Aoud".
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Weekly Scent Discussion #9: How do you love your rose?

...Rose and PeachPresumably the most beautiful fragrance of this kind is Guerlain's "Rose Barbare". I have it, I love it but I find it difficult to wear.Rose and SpicesBesides the 2 Montales mentioned above I would like to point out Il Profvmo's "Touaregh". For some reason it always brightened my mood when I wore it. Unfortunately, natural rose oil which I believe is in there seems not to be very stable, and so my Touaregh has lost a bit of its charm after a year or so.Roses for MenRoses that lean more to the masculine side are ambitious projects. There are some around:- "Flowers For Men - Rose" by Neil Morris: a wonderfully laid-back rose, just the right fragrance for a chill-out in a hammock.- "Black Tie" by Washington Tremlett: a very dark rose, somehow oudish although oud is not listed. Beautiful piano lacquer black bottle with a big silvery cap. Gothic but sophisticated: a Vampire's rose.- "Domenico Caraceni 1913": very noble rose and incense cologne. Seems to be discontinued- "Geranium pour Monsieur" by Frédéric Malle: I always count in geranium as a rose fragrance. Geranium oil is processed from a pelargonium species, and one can consider it a less expensive substitute to rose oil or a facet of rose fragrance that stands for itself. Many people are attracted by the combination with fresh mint in the top notes.- "Rose d'Homme" by Les Parfums de Rosine. This house exclusively sells rose perfumes, and they also have a few for the gents. I tested Rose d'Homme some years ago, it is okay but I missed something in it that would make it special.- "Shiloh" by the Belgium house Hors Là Monde: rose with herbs, quite opulent and maybe a bit difficult to wear. It is something special, a true niche fragrance.
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Weekly Scent Discussion #9: How do you love your rose?

...Great topic!That reminds me that I could wear a rose fragrance again which I haven't done for quite a while. Actually, there is so much to be said about this topic, so please excuse me for being wordy.Montale: Rose and OudWhen it comes to rose oud combos, Montale's Black Aoud is the role model for the whole group. Over the years Montale has launched numerous variants of that classic combination. I think they can be arranged along a line from dark/masculine/oudish to bright/feminine/flowery, and so here is an (incomplete) attempt, starting with BA:- "Black Aoud"- "Steam Aoud"- "Aoud Safran"- "Aoud Flowers"- "Louban"...- "Aoud Sliver"- "Orange Aoud"- "Aoud Melody"...- "Aoud Queen Roses"- "Deep Roses"- "Royal Aoud"- "Aoud Shiny"- "White Aoud"Personally, I'd prefer Steam Aoud over BA. It has less rose, but it also misses a certain roughness. I find it more balanced. An absolute rose and oud feast is Aoud Flowers, and I would have it if I hadn't bought Washington Tremlett's Black Tie before, which is similar.Louban is an interesting green rose oud: just imagine Morticia from Addams family switching off all the blossoms from the rose bouquet she had received and arranging the wonderful stems in a vase!The "in between" ouds are very wearable. I used to wear Aoud Sliver quite some times, it actually resembles an Arabian Mukhallat (blend) but is of high quality. The newer releases Orange Oud and Oud Melody are remarkably discreet for a Montale oud.I only had some brief sniffs of some of the very flowery or powdery Ouds that I would classify as ladies' only fragrances.Whereas the fragrances in this lineup very much follow the classic rose oud combo, Montale has released perfumes where they tried to bring together a rose/oud fragrance with another classic fragrance direction from Western or Arab perfumery:- "Wild Aoud": Rose/oud blended in a very average mainstream ambery gent's cologne or sport fragrance.- "Aoud Forest": Montale goes Pino Silvestre and Acqua di Selva!- "Greyland" and "Amber & Spices": Two spicy ouds for gents who like Halston's spicy colognes, a decent Bay rhum or Hermès' spicy chypre "Equipage".- "Aoud Cuir d'Arabie" and "Aoud Leather": Aoud Cuir d'Arabie is the scent of a shiny new leather jacket with oud, very strong, and no rose. Aoud Leather is less strong and more suede than enamelled leather.
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Suggestions for a sweet cheapie for all occasions?

...Does no blind buys mean that they should be easy to find in one of your local perfume shops?
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   07.05.2015 | Miscellaneous

Your Most Worn Perfumes

...Which are the perfumes that you use the most often?Actually, I would find it a good idea if we could automatically display this statistic to each other. It would be interesting to see what people actually wear according to their statistic. Well, until then let's share it here.Just in case you don't know: If you tell Parfumo your daily wear it can build a statistic for you.So, here is mine from today.
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   29.04.2015 | Perfume Consulting

Help me to find this one ....please

...The sketch of a fluted, cylindric black glass flacon with a white cap reminds me of something but I don't get it.I see a similarity with the flacon shape of the classic Dunhill perfumes but they weren't black with white cap.I'll call the German community for help.http://www.parfumo.de/forum/viewtopic.php?p=497600#497600
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   29.04.2015 | Perfume Consulting

Help me to find this one ....please

...The logo is copyrighted by Giorgio Armani, so it must be an old Armani fragrancehttp://www.trademarkia.com/ga-79046732.html...if the logo is correct.The problem is that there weren't many perfumes by Armani 1992 or before:http://tinyurl.com/nt2k6geThe explanation given in the first post by Deutsh would fit to the old Eau pour Homme (black bottom and black cap) but the sketch with the white cap and black glass does not fit to any historic Armani perfume.Deutsh, sometimes our memories betray us. Are you maybe confusing two perfumes with each other ?
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<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   29.04.2015 | Miscellaneous

Wow, so beautiful - ZEN flacon design

...Would be nice if these bottles make it into production
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Pour Un Homme de Caron (Eau de Toilette) - Caron
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   25.04.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

Which Caron Pour un Homme

Just some thoughts about Caron's Pour un Homme
...Pour un Homme de Caron is a real classic gents' cologne.Launched in 1938, it seems to have become a role model for gents' and unisex lavender colognes. The main idea behind it is the combination of lavender with vanilla.While lavender could be described as herbal and fougère-style, vanilla is smooth, broad and oriental. IMHO, Caron's Pour und Homme should be regarded as a semi-oriental.For some reason, this combination must be very tempting for perfumers. From budget to niche - it is hard to find lavender perfumes without Caron's vanilla touch.Opposites attract - but in case of lavender vs. vanilla I have a different opnion. I think those two notes are too far apart, and I don't feel at home with that accord.There are supposedly at least two reasons for this combination. First, of course, it has proved commercially successful. And second, lavender itself seems to be a rather fleeting note that calls for a fixing agent. I suppose vanilla can provide just that.So, I have been looking for Pour und Homme alternatives without vanilla, and I would like to point out two:"Utopian" by social creatures: A very discreet lavender perfume. Also semi-oriental but with tonka and cognac instead of vanilla. Great and undeservedly unknown niche lavender."Oxford & Cambridge" by Czech & Speake. Dry, herbal and smoky. They abandoned the idea that lavender needs something to soften it. Gorgeous!Besides that, it is always good to have a simple lavender water at home that is just that. I prefer unperfumed washing powder and fabric softener, and sprinkle a dash of lavender water on the fresh laundry.
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Pour Un Homme de Caron (Eau de Toilette) - Caron
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   25.04.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

Which Caron Pour un Homme

...Briarthorn, I hope Pour un Homme de Caron hasn't been reformulated much. It is not my favorite perfume and I have not cared much if they have changed the formula. If you have found reports about that somewhere - that might be a different story.Otherwise, the newest should be the best.
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Pour Un Homme de Caron (Eau de Toilette) - Caron
<mark>Apicius</mark>Apicius   24.04.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

Which Caron Pour un Homme

...Okay, I see.I would buy a bottle of "Pour un Homme de Caron" in a good perfume store or from a popular online perfume shop.I'd rather not buy "Pour un Homme" from an unknown seller named BEANIEGRAM2000 on ebay:- much too cheap with only 21.99 $- name on the bottle not complete- either a fake or age-old stuff
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