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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   07.01.2017 | Miscellaneous

Men's favorites

...I like that many people started their replies by saying, "At the moment my favorites are..." Like everyone else, I tire of some of my favorites or grow to love those that initially rubbed my nose the wrong way.Chamade pour Homme - GuerlainFille en Aguille - LutensVolutes - Diptyque Ambra Nera - Farmacia SS. Annunziata Noire de Noire - Tom FordBaie de Genievre -Creed (discontinued)Chene - LutensPhilosykos - Diptyque5 O'clock au Gingembre - Lutens
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   06.01.2017 | Miscellaneous

Casual sniff vs Note breakdown

...Even though I buy perfume for my nose and my pleasure -I apply scent very judiciously- it's a disappointment when someone doesn't smell the narrative character of the fragrance as intended by the perfumer or the same way I experience the scent. One of my favorite fragrances is Philosykos by Diptyque. Its narrative is built around a fresh, watery fig leaf accord. Occasionally someone will notice I'm wearing it and say, "Mmm, that's a nice coconut scent!" Well, it just so happens coconut is a building block in the fragrance. If you smell fig leaf and coconut side by side they share some similarities. But it still kills me every time I get that comment!
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   28.11.2016 | Miscellaneous

NPR article: Smell as old as time

...I don't have a "bucket list" but some day I'd love to visit Paris' Musée du Parfum. Until then maybe a whiff of 250 year old rum (mentioned in the article below) will have to do. Also mentioned is the oft cited reason for perfume's use in the past: the lack of human hygiene. Perhaps the smell of a mug caked with dried rum or the odor of human funk is preferable to Pinaud Bay Rum which you can buy in a one quart plastic jug. :PI've included the link if you want to listen to this NPR segment.Smell As Old As TimeMuseum's 1770s Artifact Smells Of Rum"People read about history, watch films about history, see it unfold before them, but how often do they get to smell history? Well, when Philadelphia's Museum of the American Revolution opens next year, visitors will have their chance. As Morning Edition host Steve Inskeep said on Wednesday, the contents of the museum include an earthenware mug from the 1770s — which still smells of rum poured by some Revolution-era drinker. Thankfully, other smells from centuries ago have not transcended time. A book on the country's early years says before running water, even the most fastidious people bathed only once a week. Some bathed once a year, whether they needed it or not. Funky — and not the good kind."
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   01.12.2015 | Miscellaneous

Perfumes that remind you of Christmas

...ScentedSalon:My favorite is Winter Delice: it is not only red berries and resin but also pine.ScentedS, Winter Delice is a great fragrance for a pine scent balanced with other elements. For the same reason I enjoy "Encens Flamboyant" which is a nice, subtle balsam incense scent and "Nuit Étoilée (Eau de Toilette)" which is balanced out with florals. I'm so glad you reminded me about these other fragrances. My wardrobe selection suddenly expanded for the holidays! It's a Christmas miracle!
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   01.12.2015 | Miscellaneous

Perfumes that remind you of Christmas

...Christmas just gives me another reason to wear Serge Lutens "Five o'clock au gingembre". Also, "Fille en aiguilles".
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Suggestions for a patchouli-centric fragrance

...PontNeuf, I've never tried a Juliette Has A Gun fragrance so "Vengeance Extreme" might be interesting. Leather and patchouli, hmm...Sleuth and Flavorite, the Italian houses always interest me so I Profumi di Firenze's "Patchouly Rosso" and "Patchouly Noir - Osmo / Patchouli Noir - Osmo" will get a look-see.
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   30.04.2015 | Miscellaneous

Weekly scent Discussion #7: Which Nose creates for you?

...Christopher Sheldrake, Jean-Claude Elena and Olivia Giacobetti
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Iso E Super: inspired invention or chemical horror?

...Apicius:Maybe it is worth ordering a small amount of Iso E Super from Perfumer's Apprentice instead, just to find out.I have a sample from Perfumer's Apprentice and it seems pretty clear that Iso E is at the heart of Terre d'Hermes. There are other essences used to boost it but Iso E is the dominant note.Last week I spritzed on Terre d'Hermes from my 2-3 year old bottle and was surprised to find the citrus notes had all but disappeared. :( Then I thought I ought to check my summer favorite Pamplemousse Rose to make sure it was OK. Same thing, no citrus. Iso E? Just fine. Yes, I stored them well but it's just part of the transitory nature of our obsession with volatile substances. Sigh...
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Iso E Super: inspired invention or chemical horror?

...I think it's a matter of, "Familiarity breeds contempt." I'm not saying there is anything inherently wrong or substandard with aroma chemicals; actually it's just the opposite problem. Iso E's beauty and complexity have caused it to be a victim of its own success. It's sort of Pachelbel's Canon in D of the fragrance world. It's everywhere! Using Pachelbel's music as an analogy, most people don't realize his (in)famous work imbues the form of the canon with a degree beauty and complexity rarely achieved. Think Freres Jacques on steroids. It's really miraculous. But it's hard to fault someone for thinking, "Oh dear lord, not this piece of crap again!" when they hear the Canon played at yet another wedding.The same hackneyed overuse of Iso E (and calone) is also true. Iso E is such a beautiful, complex essence that it can almost stand on its own as a complete scent. Almost. Once an Iso E based fragrance hit the jackpot other houses jumped in with their own setting of this novel aroma chemical. My feeling is that these remora flankers are intended to draw in the casual consumer with a scent that is perceived as smelling just like, say, Terre d'Hermes. Since Iso E is the obvious, novel note/accord then the last thing these wannabes want to do is confuse shoppers with anything too complex. So they try to let the Iso E melody stand on its own without any canonic counterpoint to muddle an impulse purchase.As curious as I am about my friend's perfume, I'm not asking. He's not one to take criticism well and I have a feeling my face would belie my extreme dislike for... whatever it is :cry:
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Iso E Super: inspired invention or chemical horror?

...On the "Off Topic" forum there is a fun thread call Either/Or. One reader will post two choices; say, "Which do you prefer, red M&M's or blue M&M's?" and another reader chooses their preference. Our friend Cryptic posted an interesting Either/Or poser: Iso E Super: inspired invention or chemical horror?The aroma chemical Iso E Super is probably best known for striking commercial gold as the strong, dry cedar accord in Jean Claude Elena's creation, "Terre d'Hermes". Elena has also used Iso E in several other Hermes fragrances. I find his use of Iso E successful because he typically pairs it with equally strong yet contrasting essences, especially citruses. Unfortunately, success breeds imitators so it's not surprising that the smell of Iso E has become ubiquitous. An acquaintance of mine wears some fragrance -I don't know what it is- and the main components are Iso E paired with a very strong animalic accord. It is the definition of the perfume insult, "It smells like a hamster cage." To make matters worse he often wears the same clothing for a couple of days in a row so things get a little ripe. Now I can't get that smell out of my head so I rarely wear any Iso E fragrances. So, Iso E Super: inspired invention or chemical horror?
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   10.03.2015 | Miscellaneous

Weekly Scent Discussion #2: What do they all have in common?

...Apicius:I think that certain musk components provide a powdery noteAdding to Apicius' note about musk (as well as the mention of Iso E), when Iso E is paired with some musks it can have a powdery effect; although Iso E's typical role is as a woody/cedar scent. Once you smell it and identify it you'll never forget it.
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   02.03.2015 | Miscellaneous

How do you store your samples?

...ScentFan:Found a solution that makes it easy to put my hands on a given sample. Ammo boxes! " $5.99 on Amazon.Anybody want to buy a bunch of cometic trays? :( Seriously, what a great solution ScentFan! Just so I don't open myself up to spam from the NRA :wink:
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   27.02.2015 | Perfumes & Brands

D.S. & Durga - Sniff Fest

...ScentFan, thanks for the wonderful reviews. The two fragrances that have always intrigued me are Bowmakers and Freetrapper. Both would be very biographical for me. The only reason I've resisted a sniff is that I'm afraid of falling in love and facing the financial reality of the relationship... sigh...
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   25.02.2015 | Miscellaneous

How do you store your samples?

...ScentFan, your idea of using tiny beads to keep your samples upright is genius. I don't know if this would work for you -sounds like you have lots of samples- but I've been using cosmetic storage trays by a company called BINO. They don't look like they'd hold much but each compartment in the tray accommodates multiple decants: 6 x 1 ml. vial or 2 x 2 ml. or 3 ml. sprays. Also, each level of compartments is tiered so it's easy to see and pick up each bottle. The first photo is the rectangular tray and it has 36 compartments so it holds over 100 decants/samples.The second photo is the curved tray which has 15 regular compartments (same size as above) and 3 large compartments. The large compartments are great for big decants and carded samples.Finally, the tray holding all the boxed Diptyque samples has 15 large compartments so it'd work just as well holding 3 x 2ml. or 3 ml. sprays.I pick up the storage trays as I need them from Marshall's and TJ Maxx for $4-$9. I have quite a few now... :roll:
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   24.02.2015 | Miscellaneous

NPR story about L.A.'s Scent Bar

...Very nice story by National Public Radio about L.A.'s Scent Bar. It includes both written and audio versions of the story. The listener comments to the story include some predictable snarkiness and anti-fragrance griping but I actually liked this comment:"I'm so poor I have to rub magazine samples on myself for perfume. So when someone asks me what I'm wearing I tell them page 5."http://www.npr.org/2015/02/22/388245432/the-scents-and-sensibility-of-las-nosy-new-perfume-enthusiasts?utm_source=facebook.com&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=npr&utm_term=nprnews&utm_content=20150223
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<mark>Greysolon</mark>Greysolon   08.02.2015 | Miscellaneous

What is your "Holy Grail" of perfume?

...Cryptic: I'd love to hear more about your experience.Ditto here, Wild Gardener, I'm jealous. Please tell us more! As my fragrance collection grows I look for specific Holy Grail scents to fill gaps in my wardrobe, particularly when it comes to a particular occasion. I do have what I think of as my signature scent - "Fille en aiguilles" - but it's more a reflection of my personality and history rather than something I wear all the time.
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Suggestions for a patchouli-centric fragrance

...Just a few days ago I received a decant of a little known patchouli perfume from one of my favorite houses, Diptyque. "L'Autre" is one of their earliest creations (1973) although it's only available as a boutique exclusive. I've worn L'Autre just once and it was disappointing. Certainly not worth the price of airfare to Paris. The big problem is that the patchouli in L'Autre has a strong, rough camphorous component. That seems to match descriptions I've read of patchouli leaves rather than the unctuous fluidity of the essential oil found in most perfumes. Has anyone else tried L'Autre and, if so, am I missing something?
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Suggestions for a patchouli-centric fragrance

...Well, "Borneo 1834" turned out to be a hit. I especially enjoyed the incredibly looooooooong development. The patchouli is dry and stays as restrained as patchouli can be while remaining the dominant note. I'll take a bottle, please! I also enjoyed "Coromandel" too though, for my tastes, it requires a judicious finger on the trigger to keep its place. Nonetheless, I find it beautiful and wearable.Unfortunately, Triffid is right about my bad experience with "Voleurs de Roses"... ick... but I won't let that keep me from giving other rose and patchouli perfumes a try.Dulce is right to say that excluding sandalwood makes finding a patchouli fragrance difficult because the two are often paired. My sandalwood issues are simply a personal preference. When it's well blended and balanced to the overall fragrance, great, no problem. But if it's a particularly sharp variety of sandalwood and it asserts its dominance by sticking its pointy little head above the rest of the fragrance then it can become overwhelming. Excluding heavy musks is problematic too because, like sandalwood, musk and patchouli are a traditional pairing. Unfortunately, my issue with heavy musks is more serious; they often make me physically ill. But it's not the smell. Like patchouli, I love the smell of musk on others and it doesn't bother me. However, if I use a perfume containing heavy musk on my own skin the physical reaction can be really unpleasant. This leads me to believe there is an issue with transdermal absorption. I don't think I've ever had a problem with clean/white musks. Thanks for all the information and suggestions.
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Suggestions for a patchouli-centric fragrance

..."Borneo 1834" is one of the few Serge Lutens' perfumes I haven't tried. Since several of you recommended it I have a sample on order. Descriptions of it its dry quality seem similar to "Ambre Sultan", which I frequently wear."Coromandel" is beautiful and it too reminds me of Ambre Sultan. The dry patchouli base in both perfumes share qualities of scent, texture and incredibly tenacious longevity. I never realized patchouli was so dominant in Ambre Sultan. How did I miss that? Hmm, maybe I've had my patchouli fragrance all along? "Patchouly Noir - Osmo / Patchouli Noir - Osmo" sounds like a another promising candidate and I'm looking forward to the arrival of that sample. By the way, why the repetition of the name of this perfume in Parfumo's index?Thanks for the suggestions so far. Oh, and Cryptic, no worries about floral notes. Love 'em! I'm just trying to avoid the creamy, oily combinations that tend to come about when patchouli gets paired with notes like heavy musks, coconut and sandalwood.
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Suggestions for a patchouli-centric fragrance

...Cryptic:Coromandel is such an obvious choice that I assume you've tried it and it wasn't a hit. Would a rose/patch combo be acceptable? There are lots of beauties in that category if you're not averse to smelling a bit floral.Thanks, Cryptic! Since you and Epimedes have suggested Coromandel I'll have to raid Lady Grey's sample collection. It's not a fragrance she wears so I have no memory of it. Epimedes, I will certainly look into your suggestions; they seem very promising. Thank you!
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