...Approaching the end of this sniff fest is a mixed blessing. Happily i've so far discovered three new loves: Bergamote & Rose Sauvage, Davana Vanille & bourbon,and l'eau du Parc. But soon I'll have no new 100BONs to sniff!Mimosa & Héliotrope PoudréA pleasant and somehow familiar scent. The almond note stands out, as does the "cherry pie" of Heliotrope atop Vanilla and Tonka in the base with Cedar. The other florals--Mimosa, Jasmine, Rose--play second fiddle. This smells like Mom preparing pies in the kitchen on a holiday, guests about to arrive, so she's wearing a powdery perfume. A very nice and comforting smell. Not an FB for me, but it's appealing.Myrrhe & Encens MystérieuxAh! A nicely-done resinous woody one. I really like the Myrrh, balanced so well by Patchouli and Papyrus. Bergamot and Cinnamon in the top add brightness, as do the "fresh notes," whatever they are. Tonka and Frankincense in the base create creamy smokiness. Were I a Wiseman heading for the manger, I'd be confident in presenting this gift. When would I wear it? Not sure, but I want some around to have the option.Nagaranga & Santal CitronnéThe woods are strong here as are the citrus. Yet something, perhaps the cardamom, reminds me of shoe polish at first, though this note mutes after a while. The composition as a whole is smooth, it's not for me..Néroli & Petit Grain PrintanierA strong Jasmine in the heart with both Neroli & Orange Blossom, introduced by a powerhouse citrus top and all sitting on a bed of Vanilla and Petitgrain. Nice. I'd snap it up if I didn't already have several that are similar to this.Oud Wood & AmyrisI adore Amyris for the luxury it adds to perfume. Here it swiftly disappears, as does the Oud, in a somewhat nondescript muddle of wood and flower and spice. Only the pink pepper, tickling my nose, stands out when I wait a while then inhale deeply.Tonka & Amande AbsolueA lovely Vanilla scent. The interesting top of citrus, almond, fruit and liquor swiftly steps aside. Rose & Jasmine in the heart come through subtly to support the delightful vanilla/tonka base, Cedar there is right at the edge of overbearing, but it doesn't cross over. If I were into vanilla, I'd buy it.ConclusionSo I can drown in it at will, 50 ml of Bergamote & Rose Sauvage is already on the way, thanks to hubby. What I want to put in my cart right now are 50 ml of both Eau du Parc and Davana Vanille & Bourbon, and 15 ml of Agrumes & Trésor Aromatique, Carvi & Jardin de Figuier, Cèdre & Iris Soyeux, and Myrrhe & Encens Mystérieux! We'll see what happens. Off to get on the mailing list to make sure I don't miss any new 100BONs. Will update this thread if I do.Bye for now.

...More, more . . .Gingembre & Vétiver SensuelThis one's a winner, a fresh and sensual aroma. Hubby loves it and I, do, too. For him. To me, this is a superior Fougère.Jasmin & Ylang SolaireI'm disappointed not to adore this one. I think it's the Spearmint and Clove that put me off. For me they are too-spicey additions that prevent swooning over the indoles of Jasmine and Ylang-ylang.L'Eau du ParcInteresting. Here Spearmint works, lending an edge to the languid florals in the heart: Orange blossom & Violet. Vetiver and Patchouli pull up the rear. This is a fragrance I'd want to wear on a day when all seems complex and undecipherable. With its well-done citrus & Petigrain top, it's a truly sophisticated beauty. Hubby said "it would smell good on you or you would smell good on it." Either way, FBLabdanum & Pur Patchouli The Labdanum & Patchouli are off-putting to me at first. It's labelled an earthy chypre which seems right because the heart is the patchouli-vetiver mix that passes for oakmoss these day. If you want to smell like a forest floor, this could be the scent. Again, it's a matter of preference, not quality.Maquis Exquis & ImmortelleWell, okay. I like Immortelle. Isn't it that yellow flower they drape all over sacred objects, places and people in India? Aromatherapists say it's good for healing and spiritual growth. It has a dank sort of appeal. Whatever macquis exquis is--Mediterranean underbrush?--it smells distinguished. This makes for an interesting scent, hard to peg. Hubby dislikes it. I don't find it disagreeable, just unusual. It's not something i'd wear, though it does have a certain impossible-to-name appeal.To be continued . . .

...The next three . . .Eau de Thé & GingembreHubby likes it, no doubt because of the prominent ginger and supporting grapefruit, spice & citrus long being hallmarks of male perfumes. I would like to smell it on him, not on me, because in spite of Jasmine and Vanilla, this isn't feminine enough for me. No need to add it's well done and a pleasure to smell.Elemi & Ambre NoirExcited to try this because I adore Elemi. It's a resin that captivated me on first whiff long ago. i also spy swoon-inducing labdanum as well as Jasmine and Ylang ylang among the notes. Testing. Oh my. To my nose this one doesn't work. What a shame. The various richnesses clash with, rather than support, each other--keeping any from standing out. It's not offensive, of course from this house, but also not especially beautiful. Those into dankness might enjoy it.Fleur d'Oranger & Santal Délicat Let's see what we have here. Orange and Sandalwood? Oh, that's the base. it's quite agreeable. Freesia and Bergamot in the top, Lilac and Geramium in the heart. Hubby calls it light, cool and candy-like, frivolous. For me the flowers are, together, a tad too sweet--the feel of Tuberose without the charm.Note about Bergamote & Rose Sauvage - i keep returning to this fragrance, trying to analyze its appeal. Then it struck me. Somehow, this is a distinctly carnal rose. It seems to be Geranium that, without the help of a single animalic. turns this rose feral. It wants to scent a woman wearing a red dress, or get entangled with her in satin bed sheets. Definitely need the 30 ml for this one, to apply and reapply.

...Glad you’re enjoying it, Exciter76. I expect to be buying their Jasmin & Ylang as well. Hope to continue soon. It’s such a delight to explore perfumes of this quality.

...Back at Last. First the two CedarsCèdre & Iris SoyeuxMy first reaction when I put it on skin, was literally, "Oh... oh!" Then I realized I was reacting to the sweet citrus top notes, two of my faves, Orange and Neroli. This one isn't as penetratingly heady as in the perfume I wore yesterday, Kiss My Name. Here the heavily cedar heart -- sweet unscratchy cedar, too -- tones down potential shouts as do dignified Iris and powder. The base does just what it should with mild tobacco, a lovely Frankincense and a green whiff from Vetiver. Add the sweetness of Benzoin and this scent comes across as both sedate and somehow distinguished. A bit powdery, a bit sweet obviously, but nowhere close to cloying, IMO, after just a short while. It is, of course, well done. I doubt if I'll find even one offensive note in this entire line. What it may come down to is preference alone, rather than quality. As in all naturals, longevity is medium, but who cares. I'll happily reapply. Probably an FB for me, but Bergamote & Rose Sauvage still reigns so far. Hubby's take? "That's not bad." Cèdre & Néroli LumineuxWell, at first it feels a bit medicinal, doesn't sweep me off my feet. Lingering, I am reminded of Bogue's MEM, if less complex. Turns out they do have Petitgrin in common, Cedar and Sandalwood. Neroli here is Mandarin there. If I'd never smelled MEM I'd be intrigued. Again, the quality is high, but I'll pass on this one. Hubby didn't like it at all.Davana & Vanille Bourbon Ah, Davana. I find I have no sample of you in my essential oil collection. An oversight. Eden Botanicals says you are: "an aroma that remains powerful, even when highly diluted. Its aroma is exceptionally rich, penetrating and very fruity/boozy, and sweetly herbaceous with warm wood undertones and a slight camphoraceous note... extremely tenacious character." Loving things agreeably tenacious in perfume as I do, I am intrigued. I let hubby smell it first. He says, "Oh, yeah. I like it, but it's kind of candy store." More intriguing. Searching on parfumo, I see I own no perfume with this note. How thrilling. Something to discover. Drum roll. Gosh, I love it--similar to the way I love Neil Morris's Afire and Serge Lutens' La Myrrhe in their yummy, musky, woody, resinous sweetness. If my nose detects correctly, Davana is what makes this divine. Two orders required. This lovely perfume and a small sample of Davana essential oil to further educate my nose.Stay tuned for coming sniffs . . .

...Continuing...It's such a pleasure to experience high quality in multiple offerings from a single house."Amaretto & Framboise Poudrée"Amaretto and raspberry powder is an apt description of this one. It's a well-done fruit and candy scent suitable for a young woman with a liking for non-trashy frivolity. Not my thing, but I admire the execution."Bergamote & Rose Sauvage"Now THIS is for me! Verbena and Geranium add an edgy greenness to this rose that rests with cherry blossom on a languid bed of vanilla. No candy sweetness here, more the allure of "nice" women old enough to take lovers. I find it just plain mesmerizing. FB for sure."Carvi & Jardin de Figuier"Whoa! Oh wow. What is this? Fig with flowers including Jasmine. my favorite floral. Caraway, Cedar, Mandarin, Blood orange and more. These fragrances have the kind of clarity I want to smell all day and bask in the notes, like I do in Sumberhouse fragrances, yet most of those I just want to sniff rather than wear. These I want on my body. This one is sweet, but interesting, because of the fig and caraway, i.e., if I smelled it on someone else I'd ask what they're wearing. I'll have to test it again to decide if I need an FB. It's certainly good.More to come.

...Hello Parfumo CohortsHaving discovered 100B0N from Fluxit's Blog entitled, "An Overview of 100+Natural Perfumery Brands," I acquired samples, sniffed two, and resolved to find time to write a sniff fest of the line. It's been a while since a perfume house inspired me like this. My first thought was that these have the clarity and sophistication of Louis Vuitton's new perfumes, designed by none other than Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud, who is responsible for some of the greats like Poeme and L'Eau d'Issey--both in my collection along with his divine Ultraviolet he did Paco Rabanne. So my first question was: who in the world is the nose behind these darlings?First, they're French, as can be guessed by the name. They say they are "the first French perfume manufacturer 100% dedicated to natural ingredients ... The perfumes are designed and developed in Grasse, in line with the rules of the trade for fine fragrances." Perhaps that's the resemblance to Cavallier-Belletrud who was born in Grasse into a family of perfumers. 100BON has shops in Lyon, no mention of the designer. Wait. Obviously it's a team,, as shown by the different names on our website for 100BON perfumers. Ah! They are from or collaborate with Robertet, "founded in 1850 in Grasse...the world leader in natural aromatic raw materials." Mystery solved. It's the nose-friendly version of IFF.Is 100BON a revolt then? A resurrection of what French perfumery once was before the 2014 EU regulations? if so, I embrace their aromatic armor. Now to the delightful sniffing.Just one today because I've already splashed this all over me. I suspect it will be perfectly accurate to just say brilliant or marvelous or mesmerizing for each."Agrumes & Trésor Aromatique "100BON's website lists these notes for this one.Top note: Orange, Citrus, Basil, Ginger, RosemaryCore note: Lavender, SageBottom note: Patchouli, Vetiver, Cedar, VanillaThis is a perfume for those who want to be bathed in alluring freshness. It's a citrusy-herbal wonder, seduction in the kitchen, the woody-vanilla base changing it from a mere herb garden to a trellis beneath which a fashion show is underway. The unisex label is accurate because a man or woman could easily wear it. When would I? During the day, anywhere. At night I'd want indoles of some kind. Conclusion? If I weren't already certain I'll be buying multiple others of this line, the fabulous Agrumes & Trésor Aromatique would already be in my basket for checkout.Stay tuned for coming reviews of:Amaretto & Framboise PoudréeBergamote & Rose SauvageCarvi & Jardin de FiguierCèdre & Iris SoyeuxCèdre & Néroli LumineuxDavana & Vanille BourbonEau de Thé & GingembreElemi & Ambre NoirFleur d'Oranger & Santal DélicatGingembre & Vétiver SensuelJasmin & Ylang SolaireL'Eau du ParcLabdanum & Pur PatchouliMaquis Exquis & ImmortelleMimosa & Héliotrope PoudréNagaranga & Santal CitronnéNéroli & Petit Grain PrintanierOud Wood & AmyrisTonka & Amande Absolue

...ScentFan for completing the manly sniff fest detailing the ones I have. Impressive and very much appreciated.I’m left in a quandary as to what to spray so...

...FINAL INSTALLMENTGuerlain "Héritage"Our site says this was Guerlain's first men's fragrance and it's by Jean-Paul Guerlain, who has left the firm and launched beautiful new perfumes as My Exclusive Collection. I just love the clarity of his designs, in this case lemon, bergamot, lavender, coriander and pink pepper in the heart with patchouli in the base, all no doubt atop the signature Guerlinade developed by Aimé Guerlain and said to contain, at minimum, bergamot, rose, jasmine, tonka bean, iris, and vanilla. It's a distinctive perfume most men could wear—solid, sophisticated, full of class.Lalique "Lalique Pour Homme Lion (Eau de Parfum)"I found this while on a search for the next one, so I'll tell the story there. Assuming the EdP has the same notes as the EdT, this beauty gives a blast of freshness from the citric-herbal top note then beauty from its jasmine-iris-cedarwood heart and luxury from the woody-animalic-vanilla base, starring oakmoss. On skin it remains boldly fresh and beautiful in a manly way.Lalique "Lalique Pour Homme Equus (Eau de Parfum)"This mesmerizer caused me to follow a strange man onto an elevator and stand in the doors, asking what he was wearing. Understanding me fully, he answered quite seriously but all I heard was "Lalique Pour Homme" before I stepped back and let him get on his way. Bad manners, yes, but there are worse things—like never finding out what this was! I panicked when I discovered that Lalique Pour Homme comes in versions: Lion, Horse (Equus), Deer (Le Faune), also Cristal which includes Panther, Bouddha and Athletes. Off I went to the nearest Lalique counter, to no avail except narrowing it down to this and the one above because they weren't in stock. I ordered them both from an online discounter and, voila! The elevator man was wearing the intoxicant, Equus. It has Juniper, mainly. Also cardamom and citrus zest in the top. Violet leaf, Mace (mace? oh, the seasoning) and Sequoia wood in the heart. When I put the test strip to my nose, I don't want to interrupt smelling to take it down and do a skin test. On paper, my nose loves it as much as faves of this group: Pour Monsieur and Heritage.Okay, skin test. Yum to the max. I love this fresh, appealingly bracing scent. My nose does twitch a tiny tad, eventually, so there may be an aromachemical in there, but not enough to close a nose like so many do.Montblanc "Individuel (Eau de Toilette)"Be careful of this one. I bought it for hubby because I read it smells like Creed's Santal, which I love. What it has that Creed Santal doesn't is aromachemicals that make my nose twitch just a bit and caused his chest to break out in a rash. If you're sensitive to synthetics, beware. It smells somewhat in the territory of Santal, but the latter takes the cake.Myrugia "Yacht Man - Metal"The company put out a series of perfumes called Yacht Man and and this one, Metal, features citruses, spice, musk and woods, per Fragrantica. Neither of us can remember how it came into his collection. On paper, it starts out strangely to me, the citrus tickling my nose. Nothing inspires me to test it on my skin but this is a sniff fest, so … Well, it's okay but I wouldn't call it beautiful. More like nondescript. There's something off-putting in it but not so much I feel I'll have to sneeze. I see how some might like it.Neil Morris "Aegean"I ordered his Signature Collection Sampler, and this was among them. Joint sniff fests being one of our favorite things, hubby smelled them too and exclaimed so about Aegean that I bought it for his birthday the next month. (I purchased Summer of Love, but Neil kindly included more samples with our order, resulting in my owning a total of 5). For hubby, Aegean is enough. On paper it's instantly swoon-inducing—Basil blossom and Mandarin in the top, lavender and quince in the center, benzoin, musk and sandalwood in the base. Absent going to the Aegean, smelling this will take you there. I just love it.Olympic Orchids "Blackbird" Ellen Covey is another designer whose perfumes I fell in love with. I have 9 of her marvels and I once owned this. During one of our sniff fests, hubby stole it from me! He claims I gave it to him. Perhaps, but that's unlikely because this is a drop-dead gorgeous perfume. As proof, I offer the evidence that this haunting, woody-resinous glory has Elemi in it. I don't give away perfumes that have elemi, much less black currant, grass, leaves, cedar, resin, amber fir balsam and musk! I'm thinking of taking it back! One of us needs to be wearing this and he seems preoccupied with all his other fabulous scents. (I understand. I get preoccupied, too). If she still makes it, do get Ellen to send you a sample. You'll probably swoon, too.Paloma Picasso "Minotaure (Eau de Toilette)"This one was an unexpected find. On another website, someone who assumed it was unavailable asked how he could pay a perfumer to reproduce it. I wondered what kind of perfume could cause that kind of yearning? Finding it for him still on sale online, I blind bought it for hubby. He's glad I did. Paloma Picasso's now bargain-basement creation flies up the nose unhindered, to take its place among the best. On skin, it's a sweeping oriental with the classic accord of Bergamot, Jasmine, Amber, Musk and Vanilla. Tarragon, Galbanum and Coriander in the top make it male as does playing down the florals in comparison with the rest. It's a dream.Roja Dove "Sultanate of Oman"The moment I smelled it at the perfume counter, I knew I had to buy it for hubby in thanks for the many stunning perfumes he's bought for me. (High price. Gulp. No problem. Choke.) There could be no more worthy resurrection of the ancient Omani perfume industry than Roja Dove's noble marriage of the best Frankincense and the finest woods, the most beautiful florals and citrus. This is a scent for a sheikh, a prince and, in terms of his spirit, I'm married to one. He's not perfect (there are no perfect folks), but for 31+ years he's shown me what it means to be loved. Come what may, I was going to get him this.ConclusionOther than our Blackbird dispute, hubby and I see eye-to-eye on perfume and will probably continue buying it for each other, eating into our "retire and travel the world" savings. Our noses will in any case. We got up at 4 am to watch the wedding of Prince Harry and the now "Rachel, Duchess of Sussex," aka Meghan. To us it was a nearly flawless event. We'd also watched the TV movie about them which showed their links to Botswana and the magical encounters with a lion that seemed to represent his mother, Diana. That sealed it. Hubby and I were already obsessed with the new royal couple because they're so in love and, on the surface, hubby's like Harry and I'm like Meghan, if both of us quite a bit older. When we learned about the lion, we knew they were meant for each other because we've had magic happen, too. It conspired to keep us together even when we tried to part. Hint: never divorce if you can't stay out of touch for a full 24 hours.Floris of London, sole possessor of a royal warrant for perfume, designed something unisex for the wedding, based on "Bergamotto di Positano." I hope the day comes when we get a bespoke perfume designed for us, too. While divorced, we kept a marriage license handy in case one of us started to croak so we could rush and remarry, ending life like we should. What pushed us back together? It's a long and just amazing story. Not a lion, but in the end our parents from heaven—his father come to us in a portentous dream and the final marriage license the dream prompted, in which the first day we could retie the knot was my mother's birthday.See? Magic.

...Hi, PolyanthesI forgot I was such a blabber-mouth, but glad you like the sniff fests. We should have known divorce wasn't the answer because once having agreed on it, we filed our own papers without lawyers. He drove me there and back and afterward we went out to dinner. We're both electrical engineers and can be a bit too logical at times, I think.He hasn't smelled the Nueffers yet. Will take Tabac Santal downstairs to him right now. :) Have a good.

...ScentFan - I love reading about your sniff fests and this one is exceptionally brilliant! What great descriptive writing and I enjoy so much the little...

...Hi, FolksTime to update hubby's scents. Pulling out test strips, scrubbing hands and arms. Getting started on his new acquisitions in alpha order:Chanel "Bleu de Chanel (Eau de Parfum)"On paper, synthetics in the top note tickle my nose and warn me to stop smelling or else. On skin it's a bit more bearable but not something I can tolerate long. The top is supposedly citrus, but pepper or some kind of chemical makes we want to sneeze. What ought to be a smooth drydown isn't because notes that are normally mellow aren't. Certainly one of my least favorite. Not a good blind buy. Must wash off to have any hope of smelling the others.Chanel "Pour Monsieur"He has two versions--the 1955, EdT and the 1989 EdT Concentrée. First, the 1955. On paper, this grand achievement in perfumery flies up my nostrils. On skin, its lemony orangey top practically makes love to the mellow spices in the heart—cardamom, coriander, basil, a deft dash of ginger. Then both embrace the oakmoss, cedarwood, sandalwood base. This says maleness in sophisticated perfection—just short of causing swooning, because that wouldn't be dignified.Now to the 1989. On paper it's a bit stronger, has a tad more bite but it's also beautiful. Now in the top we find lavender and petitgrain instead of lemon; cardamom in the heart, nutmeg added but the others gone. No woods in the base now, just oakmoss with opoponax, vanilla and vetiver added. On skin it's still spicier but so nice. They're not the same fragrances and the 1955 is superior, IMO, but somehow it's okay that they have the same name. In comparison to these two, Bleu is close to a crime.Creed "Himalaya"On paper, the lovely citrus top and warm undertone promise wonders to come and, sure enough, on skin it's an intoxication of sandalwood and spice with Juniper strong from the heart; Musk, Ambergris and Tonka mellowing from the base. It's initially a brighter perfume than the previous two, stronger, appealing, but not more beautiful than the '55 PM and perhaps equal to the '89.D.S. & Durga's "El Cosmico"Well, immediately on paper you know you're in for something different because Creosote fairly shouts from the heart. On skin, you're in a cabin on the plains of Texas surrounded by oak, pine, bushes, sand and herbs. If you long for the Texas outdoors, this scent will take you there. You just have to get used to the tarry-comforting smell of Creosote. It can't be compared to the previous two.Guerlain "Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat"On paper every aspect of this perfection of Bergamot, Cintron, Verbena and Cedar is evident, with Citron the strongest note. Hubby says he'd like to take a bath in it. On skin its fresh, astringent deliciousness expands, without lasting long. It's a toilet water, an EdC, meant to be splashed on throughout hot summer days. It's also an outdoorsy scent, though not El Cosmico's Texas outdoors and not the strongly aromatic Cedar of Aqua di Parma Colonia Intensa Oud. Jacques Guerlain was inspired by the smells of the Mediterranean in creating this.The remaining eight coming soon.

...Hi, QuercusAlbus. The price for Roja (aka Haute Luxe) is certainly high. However, it's so glorious I will pay it should my purse one day lose it's mind or gain a lot of weight. :D Others I hope to fork up lots for with any luck are any of the JAR fragrances and Jean-Paul Guerlain's My Exclusive Collection if they smell in person like they seem to on their test blotters.

...Hi, Fluxit and PolyanthesHaven't checked the Forum for a while. Thanks for the update on Olympic Orchids, Fluxit. The first one I bought was Kyphi and I loved it. She must use high quality fragrance oils, as she says, because my hyper sensitive nose shuts down instantly for most perfumes with serious synthetics. Can't even wear Chanel No 5 because of the overdose of multiple aldehydes.None of NadiaZ really worked for me, Polyanthes, especially not at those prices.

...I'm late to the party but hey - ScentFan - Thanks so much for sharing your impressions of the NadiaZ perfume with us. I've been very curious about them and eyeing her website for a while but...

...ScentFan gives a fabulous overview in her more recent Sniff Fest on the Neil Morris line...

...It's not serious, but things decided to go aft a-frigging-gley again. No respect for my sniff-fest intentions. Back soon, hopefully.

...Time to update this thread with hubby's later acquisitions. When he pulled them all out to facilitate my sniffing, he announced that he didn't need more perfume. He claimed 43 was enough. In some homes, perhaps. :D There's one more to add if I can find it. While I was exiting a hotel elevator in L.A. recently, a man walked by to get on. His perfume was so gorgeous that I stuck my head in the elevator and, holding the door, asked what he was wearing. I thought he said, Lalique's Pour Homme. Only later did I discover that several begin that way, which means I need to get to a Lalique counter and sniff until I find it. Update: It was Lalique Pour Homme Equus EdP.Meanwhile, let me tell you what I bought hubby (belatedly) for his birthday other than Neil Morris' Aegean. Oh, I've already reviewed it. Roja parfum the "Sultanate of Oman". At the moment I think it is the best male perfume in the universe. He didn't complain one bit at the time. His other new ones are:Chanel "Bleu de Chanel (Eau de Parfum)"Chanel "Pour Monsieur"Creed "Himalaya"D.S. & Durga's "El Cosmico"Guerlain "Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat"Guerlain "Héritage"Lalique "Lalique Pour Homme Lion (Eau de Parfum)"Lalique "Lalique Pour Homme Equus (Eau de Parfum)"Montblanc "Individuel (Eau de Toilette)"Myrugia "Yacht Man - Metal"Neil Morris "Aegean"Olympic Orchids "Blackbird"Sniffing begins tomorrow.

...Here's my quick sniff through Lalique's new collection, Noir Premier, which the website says, "highlights the milestones of Lalique history with contemporary fragrances whose names and themes are inspired by a legacy full of boldness and modernity. These scents, made of peerless ingredients, reveal novel facets of timelessly beautiful olfactory families."It's the peerless ingredients that attracted my sneeze and asphyxia-weary nose, but in spite of the adverising not all are actually peerless. There are some winners here, though.OR INTEMPORELLalique calls this a spicy oriental but the only components present of the traditional formula (bergamot, jasmine, amber, musk and vanilla) are bergamot and vanilla . Never-you-mind, because coffee and tobacco beautifully take the place of musk, tolu balsam and patchouli the place of amber, and violet stands in nicely for jasmine. Nothing here overpowers and in that way it reminds me of the lovely new Louis Vuittons. The spice, coffee and violet do give it a youngish feel. Not sure I'd wear this, but I certainly could if it grows on me. It's nice to have high quality options.FLEUR UNIVERSALE 1900This instantly addictive scent contains a woody-ambery synthetic called Lorenox, that manages not to disturb my nose as the yummy Rum, Cardamom and Pepper top announces itself. As the top settles, the smooth strawflower, myrrh and cinnamon, resting in its Patchouli, Tonka base. A very well-blended and agreeable fragrance that skirts the edge of gourmand without diving in.TERRE AROMATIQUES 1905An earthy, herbal gourmand with lavendar at the center. Lemon and Pineapple subtly freshen the top. Orcanox, another synthetic brings in Ambergris. which has Tonka and Vetiver. Another well-blended, agreeable fragrance.ROSE ROSALE 1935Osthmanthus, Musk and Cashmeran manage to combine unfortunately here and make this one actually stink a little. The Rose is too subtle to help. Think dog poop in the flower bed.FRUITS DU MOUVEMENT 1977This one closes my nose. Must be the Cashmeran, a chemical. The rest is a muddle with not much to recommend it.ÉLÉGANCE ANIMALE 1989Well, it's not bad really if you like animalics. The Saffron is strong and something called Gurjun balsam. The florals help a good bit as does the simple leather, sandalwood base. I wouldn't wear it, but many a sultry perfumista might.That's all of them. Of the lot, I'd go for the second and third.

...You might try Olympic Orchids then, Fluxit. They're completely natural and several are stunning. I don't mind the subtle and judicious use of good quality synthetics. Chemical horrors that asphyxiate on first sniff are what bother me, especially when they come from so-called major perfume houses, trading on former glories to hoodwink the younger set.