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<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   13.10.2016 | Perfumes & Brands

The best Keiko Mecheri?

...I am a huge fan of Ume (a thick, gorgeous fragrance, all about plum and spice and woods), and I think it is far and away her greatest creation. But I also like Cuir Cordoba (which is very similar to Lutens Daim Blond to my nose), and Scarlett (a bracing, herbaceous angelica and spice fragrance).
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   15.08.2015 | Miscellaneous

Dupes - your top five

...Serge Lutens Daim Blond = Keiko Mecheri Cuir Cordoba

Wanted : herbal elixir

...Slniecko:What about good ol Mandragore or Mandragore Poupre?I am crazy for Mandragore, and Eau du Sud as well.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   06.07.2014 | Perfumes & Brands

Scent of the Day

...L'Artisan Fleur de Carotte
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   06.07.2014 | Perfumes & Brands

Comme des Garçons topic, also re. Pharrell

...Unsurprisingly, I agree with PBullFriend on just about every count, and I too think Incense was their most successful series. I often pick up CdG decants, because I can count on CdG to keep things interesting. I recently reviewed Blue Encens from the Blue Invasion series, and Wisteria Hysteria. I liked both.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   05.03.2014 | Miscellaneous

The functional no-nos of perfume bottles

...Decanting from YSL "Nu (2001)" is a pain! At the time, the bottle was quite groundbreaking, though.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   26.02.2014 | Perfumes & Brands

The Guerlain Aqua Allegoria line: Your favourites?

...I haven't tried them all, but of the ones I have tried, I like Mentafollia best. Somehow I ended up with two bottles! In the summer, I refrigerate a small decant. It's amazingly refreshing on very hot days!I also like Orange Magnifica, Mandarine Basilic, and Pamplelune. I plan to try the new Limon Verde when it is released. I had a bottle of Gentiana, which I liked, but I swapped it some time ago.Oh, and I do happen to have a bottle of Foliflora that is looking for a new home.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   24.02.2014 | Miscellaneous

Good-smelling cheapies are hard to find

...I am stunned that no one has mentioned the house of Balmain yet. Their line of fragrances are always of quality, and always affordable. My favorites:"Jolie Madame""Balmain de Balmain"And my favorite vintage:"Vent Vert" -- the original one by Germaine Cellier. I have not tried the reformulations (1991 Calice Becker, 1999 Nathalie Feisthauer), so I cannot speak to those.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   24.02.2014 | Miscellaneous

What perfume have you bought recently?

..."24K" by Jivago and "Todd Oldham:6dd7509280]Sorceress, mine is on the way ....."Todd Oldham:6dd7509280]Add me to the "Todd Oldham" club! My under $5 mini is on the way. I always wanted to try it.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   16.02.2014 | Miscellaneous

Vintage - Yes or No ?

...I am no expert on vintages, but my vintage Vent Vert is gorgeous, and the galbanum up top is still going strong. My bottles of Shiseido Zen and Guerlain Samsara are just as beautiful as when I bought them -- in th 80s.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   13.02.2014 | Perfumes & Brands

Keiko Mecheri ~ recommendations

...Like anything, much depends on your own personal taste.My own favorite KM is "Umè" which is a fruity, plummy chypre. I wear it regularly in autumn and early winter.I also own and love "Scarlett", and wear it often in summer, but I may be in the minority on that one.I can also recommend "Mogador", a lovely blend of rose notes, "Genie des Bois", a woody violet, and "Cuir Cordoba", an iris/suede/benzoin fragrance that closely resembles Serge Lutens' Daim Blond.I have owned bottles of all three of these last at some point, and I need to restock all three, but most especially "Cuir Cordoba"!Oh, I just remembered. If you are a fan of sweet gourmands, try "Loukhoum". I am not a fan, but there are some who go crazy for this almond/rose/honey scent.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   13.02.2014 | Perfumes & Brands

Exploring Fragonard

...I am a huge fan of "Billet Doux"! That's my favorite, hands down.I picked up a bottle of "Confidential - Cette Nuit Là" for a song a few years ago, and it's a nice amber fragrance.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   25.01.2014 | Miscellaneous

Do you keep your samples?

...I hate to admit it, but right now I have a couple of hundred samples. I used to swap a lot, but I haven't been doing that lately, and they've just piled up. When I have time to go through them all, and identify which of them I'm ready to part with (and which of those have enough juice in them to be of value to others), I think I will sell them as a lot on eBay.

On Neapolitan Perfume - Layering

...I layer Iso E Super with L'eau de Kasaneka, and I layer Eau de Guerlain with anything that needs a little citrus amplification, like Burberry Brit.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   03.01.2014 | Miscellaneous

What are your top 10-20 fragrances you couldn't do without ?

...Annick Goutal Eau du SudAnnick Goutal MandragoreChanel CocoDior Dolce VitaDolce & Gabbana By WomanFrapin 1270Guerlain MitsoukoGuerlain L'Heure BleueGuerlain SamsaraHermes Eau des MerveillesJo Malone Pomegranate NoirKeiko Mecheri UmeL'Artisan Parfumeur DzongkhaL'Occitane Feu d'Orange IntensePenhaligon's MalabahPadparadscha SatelliteSerge Lutens Feminite du BoisSerge Lutens Fille en AiguillesShiseido ZenYSL NuThat was difficult!
Silver Mountain Water (Eau de Parfum) - Creed
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   03.01.2014 | Perfumes & Brands

Silver Mountain Water by Creed

...I was very excited to try it, but after getting a sizable decant to give it a fair trial, I was disappointed. At one point, I was reminded of an inkjet printer.I think perhaps some folks really click with Creed as a house, and others don't. I seem to be in the latter camp.
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   02.01.2014 | Miscellaneous

Something I still don't understand about the parfum extrait

...It seems as if you have the mistaken impression (or perhaps it is just a wish or suspicion) that fragrances are always created in high concentration form (extrait), and then they are somehow diluted for public consumption. That is not the case at all.Look at this article about the various fragrances in the "Merveilles" family, all issued by Hermes. that the first one to be released was an edt (eau de toilette), created by Ralf Schweiger and Nathalie Feisthauer.Notice that the second one, released a year later, was an edp (extrait de parfum) by J-C Ellena. Read the notes -- they are very different! So the second fragrance released is not simply a higher concentration than the first. It's altogether a different composition! If you look at the rest of the Merveilles family described in that article, you may come to understand that this is but one illustration of the great variations that are possible in the creation and marketing of one fragrance. For example, Elixir des Merveilles is altogether different from both Eau des Merveilles edt and Eau des Merveilles edp!One more thing, addressing again your question about the process of creating and marketing of fragrance. Here is an oversimplification of the process followed by a large fragrance house:A house writes up a brief, which is a description of what they want in a perfume. A nose reads that brief, and creates a fragrance, and presents it to the house. There may be some back and forth, but the final version of the fragrance is the juice created by the nose, and accepted by the house. That is what is then sold on the shelves. And in most cases, the juice will contain many synthetic aromachemicals. Only indie houses dedicated to naturals avoid synthetics completely.

Coffee notes in perfume

...When I sampled "L'Or de Torrente" I perceived a coffee note midway through the arc. It didn't last very long, though. I also get coffee in the heart of Parfumerie Générale "Cozé No.02", but there's a lot more than coffee going on there. I have a good sized decant of that one -- it's so lovely in winter!
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   01.01.2014 | Miscellaneous

Something I still don't understand about the parfum extrait

...Apicius:Traditionally, denominations such as Extrait, Eau de Parfum, Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne stand for different concentrations of the fragrant components. However, this is not reliable any longer.More and more companies use these nanes simply for marketing their flankers. Sometimes, it is really difficult for us to find out if a new proposal named Extrait of something is actually a new perfume that we should list or just another concentration that we should not.This is an important observation. The term "extrait" in particular has recently been terribly abused -- by which I mean "used by perfumers in other than the traditional context specifying concentration."
<mark>SystemeD</mark>SystemeD   01.01.2014 | Miscellaneous

Something I still don't understand about the parfum extrait

...This is a very good, yet brief, article that answers your questions. don't know who told you that essential oils are used in extrait de parfum, and synthetics are used in lower concentrations, but they don't know what they're talking about, so I would caution you against treating them as reliable sources of information.
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