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Frangipani (plumeria)

...I like "Jannat" which officially lists Frangipani ... but there are 380 more to be found in the advanced search here on site ;)
<mark>aoe</mark>aoe   29.01.2014 | Miscellaneous

Marketing Mistakes - arbitrary target group?

...Dulcemio:In short, I disagree with the notion that the "gender binary" is inherently harmful (after all, the entire planet is male and female, the universe based on yin and yang, opposite but complementary forces) or that insisting on gender neutrality is good for anyone.That is one opinion, I rather believe the universe is based on quantum physics and the entire planet is divided on most issues including gender - you advocate a binary, I advocate a vast number of continua so everyone is between ascribed genders - on some scales more masculine, on some more feminine. But I'm sure our complimentary opinions can coexist and the truth is somewhere in between ;-)The natural world is not gender neutral.That depends on the species you take into consideration (and why the focus on biology? ;-)). From androgynous slugs to homosexual dogs you find lots of examples against a gender binary and the heterosexuality paradigm.And if the common perceptions of masculinity and femininity are so repugnant to you, why would you even join this discussion to begin with? You made what some might call an incendiary comment about the "gender binary" and now seem genuinely appalled that anyone might disagree with you. You're asking for a level of inclusiveness that you yourself don't seem willing to ex[t]end to others.The problem is that an exclusively binary perception of masculinity/femininity leads to a misapprehension of anyone not ready to identify completely with one or the other and leads to people showing unusual traits or combinations that were traditionally unusual (homosexual parents, "men" wearing dresses, women boasting crew cuts ...) tend to be met with skepticism towards the person because gender takes such a big role in our first apprehension. But admittedly this goes beyond the scale of the thread.
<mark>aoe</mark>aoe   28.01.2014 | Miscellaneous

Marketing Mistakes - arbitrary target group?

...Dulcemio:However, I don't think the majority should have to subordinate their feelings about masculinity and femininity, whether those feelings are innate or learned, just to make a minority feel more comfortable about their place in the world. That would be disingenuous and condescending. I'm pretty sure everyone has problems with masculinity and femininity at least at some points in their lives, both with their own and other's - be it in behavioral roles (gender performativity ;-)), vocational fields, child rearing (men are actively if not deliberately dissuaded from engaging in home or work engagement with children and thus wonderously don't feel comfortable with or responsible for them), household chores, ... being predominantly male or female is a lifelong struggle avoiding pitfalls (more so if you switch genders). MRoth:And it's very difficult to study how much of gender identity is innate and how much is instilled, even learned passively via a very gender-focused culture.As for the innate traits, Cordelia Fine has composed an outstanding collection of studies and articles debunking gender myths called "Delusions of Gender". Similar feats can and have been undertaken for physical traits to some extent.MRoth:As for who gets harmed by going along with the gender binary? Well, anyone that doesn't fit within it, to be honest. Intersex, transgender and third gender individuals, and to a lesser extent those that are cisgender but don't fit the prescribed cultural mould. So, to these people, breaking from a binary into a spectrum would mean a world of difference.Agreed! Personally I mostly refuse categorization and have made many a man (and some women) doubt their choice in bathrooms.Dulcemio:Marketing sure does work. And PR Black XS is another example of pricing discrepancy An ex-girlfriend of mine loved the original Black XS for men ;) I also know women who love Joop! and Givenchy Pi, whereas I tend to prefer heavy orientals like Shalimar or Opium.Sorceress:And yet men are still the higher paid wage earners for the same job. They make more money, yet must be lured in by a lower cost. Women traditionally scrape by and will also traditionally pay higher for a perfume. And statistically what is the ratio of men to women as marketing execs? Hmmmmm......our world still is not equal and I wonder if it will be for my grandchildren or their grandchildren?Yeah, marketing is responsible in a big way for the gender rift, starting at the "pink aisle" via the technogaming stuff girl's aren't allowed to look at to perfume marketing ... and a strong gender boundary reproduces gender bias in profession, income, career models, paternity leave agreements ...
<mark>aoe</mark>aoe   01.07.2012 | Perfume Recommendations

Feminine Leather scent

...Another hand up for Habanita (there appear to be different versions, though; I fell in love with the EdP but I'm very happy with the EdT I actually bought).Guerlain's Cuir Beluga, Chanel's Cuir de Russie and Serge Luten's Daim Blond should fit the bill in my opinion.In addition to the ones already mentioned the no longer available sampler from TPC ("Kick Off Your Boots - Even Cowgirls Get The Blues") also contained Caron's Tabac Blonde, Piguet's Bandit, Diorling, Hermès' Kelly Calèche, and Miller Harris' Cuir d'Oranger as well as Tom Ford's Tuscan Leather which is too dry for my taste so maybe not the right recommendation here; the same might go for Serge Luten's Cuir Mauresque and Cuir de Lancôme."Russisch Leder" (e. g. from Farina Gegenueber), "Koelnisch Juchten" (Kamp Silberhals) and other EdC/colognes with leather notes were actually marketed as feminine/unisex at the time, but might be either too harsh or too ... "cologny" in their lack of longevity for your tastes.
<mark>aoe</mark>aoe   29.04.2012 | Perfume Recommendations

Perfumes that Smells like a Temple or a Church

...I've actually been accused of smelling like a church service when I wore Annick Goutal's "Myrrhe Ardente", though the beeswax smell lightens it a bit. Their "Encens Flamboyant" goes in a similar if somewhat drier direction.
<mark>aoe</mark>aoe   06.04.2012 | Miscellaneous

The soap opera that is now TPC

...I haven't ordered all that much from The Perfumed Court myself but I like their service a lot. Yes, decants are cheaper by the liter as are discounted original bottles if you can get them but TPC offers/offered thousands of niche samples, many of them vintage or (in some parts of the world) hard to get. It is a means of getting a whiff of a particular scent or a sampler on a theme, and I hope one or better yet both of the resulting enterprises will be able to provide that service in the future.
<mark>aoe</mark>aoe   02.04.2012 | Miscellaneous

Steer me to some excellent review blogs

Off the top of my rss to email translator
Winter Star - Michael Storer
<mark>aoe</mark>aoe   02.04.2012 | Perfumes & Brands

Michael Storer?

...I think the newest was "Winter Star", the others ("Monk", "Stephanie", "Djin", "Yvette", "Kadota", "Genviève") already appear in the version of his homepage on See here for a scan of the sample card: all of those have been added to the Parfumo database I'd say no, nothing new

Leather chypres

...Stating the obvious - Chanel's "Cuir de Russie"? Guerlain's "Cuir Beluga" and "Cuir Mauresque" by Serge Lutens might be a bit too much on the sweet side for a Chyprée, but Dior's "Diorling" and "Dzing!" by L'Artisan Parfumeur might pass. (And I confess I'm shamelessly quoting the better part of a perfumed court sampler I'm particularly pleased with, trying to cross-reference the contents with the H&R poster)
Winter Star - Michael Storer
<mark>aoe</mark>aoe   02.04.2012 | Perfumes & Brands

Michael Storer?

...Sherapop:Thank you so much, Aromi! I am happy that Michael Storer is still in the game, because he makes very fine perfumes! 8)Indeed he does! I haven't come around to writing reviews for the samples I received from him last summer but they are certainly impressive