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Sniff Fest - Dior Private Collection

Sniff Fest - Dior Private Collection 8 years ago

Intrigued by a review of Ambre Nuit, I searched for samples of the whole La Collection Privée. Fourteen are on the Dior site, along with a lovely video.

The perfumer is François Demachy, Dior creative director. He also created my favorite male scent: Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa Oud. At least, I know Demachy created the Intensa and I assume he's also responsible for Intensa Oud. Interesting that a sales clerk told me a lot of women buy this for their men. One sniff and I definitely wanted to smell it on my guy. He rarely wears it, though. Probably because we found it lingers for days--something I don't mind in the least for such an intoxicating scent.

In short, I already think well of Demachy's nose. In an article he said patchouli, jasmine and rose (my two favorite florals and 2nd favorite wood) remind him of his childhood in Grasse. His father was a pharmacist and one of his customers was Edmond Roudnitska, a legendary perfumer and friend/cohort of Christian Dior--who hired Demachy after his long apprenticeship in the Grasse perfumery world. Demarchy became Dior's Perfumer-Creator in 2006. He says a successful perfume is "one that makes the woman wearing it smile and awakens desire in a man." This accomplished via the fine raw materials that have surrounded Demachy all his life. On the website he says, "My role is to enhance all these wonderful materials. At Dior, their quality is constant: that is our signature."

Now to sniff the results. I'll begin with a first sniff impression, then later to paper and on to skin. Missing from the sample set and the website are Cologne Blanche and Vetiver, both discontinued.

Ambre Nuit
A fresh and quite pleasant woody amber.
Bois d'Argent
Woods and resins, also beautifully done.
Cologne Royale
An accomplished citrus, supported by a simple woody/musky base.
Cuir Cannage
A strong and distinctive leather.
Eau Noire
Principally lavendar and leather.
Grand Bal
This is the classic oriental accord, lightened and made less sweet by the absence of amber and vanilla.
Fresh citrus and green herbs, mellowed by sandalwood in the base.

Getting anosmic. Will continue later with the other seven. So far I can report there's not a single fragrance in this collection that I find less than beautiful. Lavender is among my least favorite notes, so I don't like Eau Noire as much as the rest, but these perfumes are splendid. They have a powerful simplicity that honors the ingredients and makes each a portrait, perfectly framed. Just as the website promises, they are elegance in scent. If they wear as well as they sniff, my wish list is about to growl!
Last edited by ScentFan on 12.12.2014, 17:05; edited 1 time in total
Sniff Fest - Dior Private Collection, 2 8 years ago
No better way to start the day than a quick sniff through the remaining seven.

Gris Montaigne
A floral with woods, pleasantly familiar
Leather Oud
The name says it all. It's leather and it's oud. Another familiar accord well done.
Where Dior lives and where Dechamy was inspired by a walk in the woods. A heart of beautiful florals, a base of sandalwood and musk creates this delicate scent.
Immediate spice with a little wood and incense. Coriander enters and a hint of cinnamon.
New Look 1947
Well done florals, sophisticated rather than pretty-pretty.
Oud Ispahan
An accomplished woody rose oud.
Patchouli Impérial
Patchouli softened and ennobled by Coriander and Sandalwood.

Anosmia setting in again. I'll probably pass on Leather Oud and Mitzah, but hubby might like them. Otherwise, I could wear any of these.

More to come.
Sniff Fest - Dior Private Collection, 3 8 years ago
Skin Tests & Comparisons, 1

First, I tried Ambre Nuit, Bois d’Argment and Oud Ispahan on skin and though all three are lovely, I was most drawn to the last, so I’ll begin there.

I compared Oud Ispahan to the rose ouds I already have. (Can’t be sure if I found them all. Wish we could search for notes in our collections):

1 Million Absolutely Gold - This rose oud is lightened by mandarin, cinnamon, iris and mint. Beautiful, but with no wood it’s not in the same league.
Nejma Three - Strong oud, strong wood, until the drydown then they kind of meld and mute as the rose rises. In Oud Ispahan these two notes grow during the drydown, the rose starring, labdanum adding sophistication. In short Oud Ispahan becomes and stays a better version of what Nejma Three starts as.
Rose 31 - This is curried rose. Oud and other woods are there, too, and frankincense, musk, vetiver, but it still smells ready to eat. I love it. Later the woods rise more.
Rose Nacrée du Désert - Saffron, Turmeric and Cardamom add funk to this resinous woody rose oud. It’s the dirtiest of the bunch and for that I adore it. Longevity isn’t so hot, though. Against it, Oud Ispahan still shines in woody oudy rosy authenticity.
Silver Rain - To me, it can barely be considered a rose oud, awash as it is in fruit and citrus.
Thirty Three Ex Idolo - In the few minutes I couldn’t find it, I kept whispering, “Come to mama, darling.” Ahem. It’s that sort of scent. Talk about oud! Talk about rose! Yes, it has a number of odd ingredients (rubber? steel?) but the rose and oud shine.

However, in being what its name implies, oud and rose (as in Rose d’Ispahan) none of these can touch Oud Ispahan. I did a skin test and the others have faded to varying degree on my hands and arms. Not Oud Ispahan. It remains itself, an utterly beautiful rendition of flower, oud and wood. Of course, I’ve yet to compare it to the lovely Montale rose ouds I’ve sampled. Here goes:

Black Oud - Has Oud Ispahan met its match? For different reasons I love them both, though these two have similar notes. Oud Ispahan: Labdanum, Patchouli, Oud, Rose, Sandalwood. Black Oud: Labdanum, Mandarin, Musk, Oud, Patchouli, Rose. Ispahan is a bit sweeter and woodier because of the sandalwood, but not disagreeably so. In Black Oud, mandarin and musk tame the wood and bring out the rose. It’s a darker loveliness, a more oudy rose, where Ispahan is a woodier one—more Tam Dao with rose and oud. No need to compare to Montale’s Aoud Roses Petals or Aoud Queen Roses. They’re different animals and, IMO, Black Oud surpasses them both.
Last edited by ScentFan on 30.01.2015, 18:40; edited 1 time in total
8 years ago
I haven't tried them all but the ones that I have have tried are wonderful. The word from folk who have been lucky enough to get to know them all is that this collection is exceptional. According to Dior staff we will have them here in December. I am really looking forward to that.

Of the ones that I have tried my favourite isAmber Nuit, which actually has a rose in it's in heart. It is a very beautiful rose amber in my view, rather than a woody amber. It has a beautiful transparency but it still has heft and presence, with great sillage and longevity. It wears beautifully.

Granville is a terrific aromatic citrus herb and pine cologne in the style of Blenheim Bouquet if anyone is familiar with that. It is very, very good, exceptional in fact. It has great staying power for a fragrance of this type.

Patchouli Imperial Another lovely one. An elegant woody patchouli with warm undertones.

Leather Oud is all that you have heard about it and more. A reeking, animalic, warm animal body and barn notes on a woody, oudy base. If that's your thing you will love this one.

I really look forward to trying the others! [/i]
8 years ago
Foustie, IMO, it's a truly splendid collection--one beauty after another.
Oud Ispahan it is 8 years ago

Today Oud Ispahan arrived. After my December sniff fest of the Dior Private Collection, I kept thinking about this one, kept sampling. It's still my favorite of the line. Here's a final comparison with Montale's Black Aoud--the only rose oud I have that competes with it.

Initially, a cloud of what smells like superb incense rises, reminiscent of the likes of Craft, Thirty Three by Ex Idolo, and La Liturgie des Heures. Dior's notes for this fragrance don't include incense, but it smells like the beautiful and resinous elemi has crept in. In fact it's labdanum, patchouli and sandalwood showing off like I've never smelled them do so hypnotically, aided of course by a quite civilized oud. Then comes the gorgeous rose which gives this fragrance it's name--Rose d'Ispahan, the longest flowering of the Damask roses. Originally discovered in the city of Isfahan in Iran, it was introduced to Europe during the crusades where it eventually came to the attention of the great noses in France--still the center of modern perfumery and the source of most perfumes. Having found this mesmerizing scent, I don't feel the need to explore more rose ouds. I could wear almost any of the splendid Dior Private Collection, but this is the one that stole my heart. Think the best rose, the best resins and the best woods you've ever smelled. That's Oud Ispahan to me. Volume and longevity are wonderful.

Having said that, I also bought Montale's Black Aoud. It has the same notes except Sandalwood, adds mandarin and musk. The result is a slightly more complicated, slightly more oudy and more sultry fragrance. I've sprayed one on each arm and it's hard to describe the difference. It's as if Oud Ispahan is more solidly itself, a cleaner, clearer fragrance whereas Black Aoud with the musk and mandarin wears borrowed finery. After a while the musk competes with the oud. Not so with the Dior. They're both beautiful, but perhaps the telltale sign is I got a smaller bottle of the Montale.
My current signature 8 years ago
Oud Ispahan, as I wrote in my review, became the closer I have been to my Holy Grail. So, I sign below your words on this fragrance.
But I love others too: Eau Noire is an excellent example of how lavender can be blended with immortelle and become greedy (I made a short review of this one, too). Ambre Nuit is an erotic amber, quiet and comfy, beautiful on a woman's skin. And Leather Oud is another great take on the demand of a more westerner and sophisticated solution for oud. Do I prefer it to Montale's Aoud Cuir d'Arabie? Not at all in this case, here I keep my fidelity to the latter, rougher and skankier, as leather needs to be for my taste!
Dior's craftsmanship is a reference and many niche brands should take a lesson watching the masters.
8 years ago
Hi, Insense. Got an, "Oh wow you smell tremendous," this morning after a generous application. As you can see from this thread I adore them all except Eau Noire but that's only because of the lavender note--not my fav. I think this collection is a real accomplishment in perfumery.
8 years ago
Hi, ScentFan. I'm not surprised at all. Oud Ispahan is my most complimented perfume, by far Smile
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