Sniff Fest - Dior Private Collection 8 years ago
Intrigued by a review of Ambre Nuit, I searched for samples of the whole La Collection Privée. Fourteen are on the Dior site, along with a lovely video.
The perfumer is François Demachy, Dior creative director. He also created my favorite male scent: Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa Oud. At least, I know Demachy created the Intensa and I assume he's also responsible for Intensa Oud. Interesting that a sales clerk told me a lot of women buy this for their men. One sniff and I definitely wanted to smell it on my guy. He rarely wears it, though. Probably because we found it lingers for days--something I don't mind in the least for such an intoxicating scent.
In short, I already think well of Demachy's nose. In an article he said patchouli, jasmine and rose (my two favorite florals and 2nd favorite wood) remind him of his childhood in Grasse. His father was a pharmacist and one of his customers was Edmond Roudnitska, a legendary perfumer and friend/cohort of Christian Dior--who hired Demachy after his long apprenticeship in the Grasse perfumery world. Demarchy became Dior's Perfumer-Creator in 2006. He says a successful perfume is "one that makes the woman wearing it smile and awakens desire in a man." This accomplished via the fine raw materials that have surrounded Demachy all his life. On the website he says, "My role is to enhance all these wonderful materials. At Dior, their quality is constant: that is our signature."
Now to sniff the results. I'll begin with a first sniff impression, then later to paper and on to skin. Missing from the sample set and the website are Cologne Blanche and Vetiver, both discontinued.
A fresh and quite pleasant woody amber.
Woods and resins, also beautifully done.
An accomplished citrus, supported by a simple woody/musky base.
A strong and distinctive leather.
Principally lavendar and leather.
This is the classic oriental accord, lightened and made less sweet by the absence of amber and vanilla.
Fresh citrus and green herbs, mellowed by sandalwood in the base.
Getting anosmic. Will continue later with the other seven. So far I can report there's not a single fragrance in this collection that I find less than beautiful. Lavender is among my least favorite notes, so I don't like Eau Noire as much as the rest, but these perfumes are splendid. They have a powerful simplicity that honors the ingredients and makes each a portrait, perfectly framed. Just as the website promises, they are elegance in scent. If they wear as well as they sniff, my wish list is about to growl!
Last edited by ScentFan on 12.12.2014, 17:05; edited 1 time in total